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YOUR RESEARCHOil service, or not
Leading reported evidence
Use expensive millers cfs nt+ nanotec 10w50 though
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I use the expensive Millers CFS NT+ Nanotec 10W50 though.
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Suggestion
It would be interesting to take the sample of your oil and send it somewhere to check its state - that would give the ultimate answer to such questions.
Leading evidence: 'Use expensive millers cfs nt+ nanotec 10w50 though' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check its state' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
It would be interesting to take the sample of your oil and send it somewhere to check its state - that would give the ultimate answer to such questions.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
I like using a good indy for this sort of job as they will typically do a general health check which is helpful for catching things that may be starting to perish (think rubber etc.).
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Suggestion · Original poster
My feeling is that it's a waste of money, accepting that modern thinking on 996's is to change annually (which I usually do).
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Suggestion · Original poster
Would you change the oil and filter again this year?
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Check its state
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Suggestion
It would be interesting to take the sample of your oil and send it somewhere to check its state - that would give the ultimate answer to such questions.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I like using a good indy for this sort of job as they will typically do a general health check which is helpful for catching things that may be starting to perish (think rubber etc.).
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I like using a good indy for this sort of job as they will typically do a general health check which is helpful for catching things that may be starting to perish (think rubber etc.).
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Hi all,
I did just over 1000 miles last year and since the last oil change.
Would you change the oil and filter again this year?
My feeling is that it's a waste of money, accepting that modern thinking on 996's is to change annually (which I usually do).
Promise to do more miles in it this year!
Cheers
Dave
It would be interesting to take the sample of your oil and send it somewhere to check its state - that would give the ultimate answer to such questions.
I don't think modern oils are that fragile, but who knows.
I reckon for the price of an oil and filter change at a garage or doing it yourself it is worth it for your peace of mind and anyone who may consider buying it in the future.
I like using a good indy for this sort of job as they will typically do a general health check which is helpful for catching things that may be starting to perish (think rubber etc.).
Always!! No question.
It's only £100 or so, which is nothing vs the value of your car or the cost of an engine rebuild.
Oil is cheaper than metal, meaning look after your engine. Plus a buyer will want to see it. :thumb:
I say yes change it.
Even after 1000 miles there will be some contamination that could affect the oil or engine internals and as Marky says its only £100 or so
...I'm inclined to say waste of good oil provided the journeys were not all very short. I know all about the Cadbury build quality of these engines but I dont believe they are quite this fragile...
...and Millers Oils Motorsport CFS 10w-50 NT+ Nanodrive Fully Synthetic Engine Oil which is what I use and Hartech recommend is now £85 for 5 litres so you'll need 2 of those plus a filter so £180 ish quid to self do...
Doesn't matter how good the oil is, it's the other stuff that contaminates it like water and petrol. You only have to take your filler cap off and see the mayo to know what I'm talking about.
GMG, I agree it's a bit wasteful but if you can't spend £120 on a £20k car to keep it tiptop, well....
Anyway, your oil can nearly always be found for about £60. :thumb:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32364359...47_VIBvSMC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
1k miles and one year old? Waste of good oil imho. I'd just drive it for another 4K miles / or another year and then change.
Unless it has had a lot of cold starts - in which case petrol dilution is an issue. I'd take a small sample of oil via the filter housing or dipstick (996?) and give it a good sniff and sample the colour and feel? If it smells at all of petrol or is very black then change. If not then just use the car.
1K miles is nothing if covered over 4 or 5 journeys... But 10 or 20 cold starts without a longer drive then change it.
I don't. If mileage is under 1,000 or so a year, I go 2 years before a change.
Modern synthetics are good for 10,000 miles plus, some specify up to 20,000 miles now. Remember this stuff sat under the ground for millions of years, then could well be 2 years old after being extracted and bottled, sat on a shelf and sold.
It's a bit like cambelts. On my VW T5.1 Shuttle campervan, it's meant to be done every 4 years. In 4 years, that will be lucky to do 8,000 miles. I stretched it to 6 and the belt was as new when removed. The age thing is mainly for heat cycles, so people who do several short journeys a day, don't try to make it last for 15 years as they've only done 10,000 miles.
The oil still looks good when I change it and pressure is still high, 3-4.5bar.
I use the expensive Millers CFS NT+ Nanotec 10W50 though.
