Advice Please

In the recent months you may recall I have enlightend you all to my on going saga with my instrument cluster. Summary : All instrument cluster dials failed without warning. Changing fuses and dissconnecting the battery failed to solve the problem. A new cluster was purchased. This worked fine for 10 days before failing again. Same problem all dials not responding but some lights come on now and again. Indicator lights fine and battery guage fine. The cluster has been repleaced under warrenty. However before my Porsche specialist fits the new cluster both they and I want to find the route of the problem. They have checked the wiring behind the cluster for any unexpected large currents, but couldnt find any. They then suggested removing the whole dash board and checking the complete wiring loom and if all else fails replacing it at considerable expense. Shocked that this could ultimately be the only way to solve the problem I asked for a second opinion from Porsche directly. They said they would probably remove the dash as well and check for a wiring problem since 2 clusters have failed. My Porsche specialist said they could try one more thing which is that there are 2 electrical connectors that plug into the back of the cluster and maybe replacing these would resolve the problem. One problem Porsche do not sell these connectors seperate from the complete wiring harness, so a contact they have is trying to source the parts elsewhere. Now having to wait. Not being mechanically minded or have the first bit of knowledge regarding the electrical system I not sure what to make of the whole sage and was hoping for some advice. A reminder that I'm based in Dubai, with one OPC and one Porsche specialist to speak with. Thanks

There are 3 plugs on the instrument cluster. If you are getting some backlighting but no instruments, I would suggest that they check the pins on the plug which provides power and ground connections to the instruments. If you need a wiring diagram, email me with the model year of your car and I'll attach it to a reply. It may be that the clusters themselves haven't failed, and it is simply a power supply problem - a bad connection or pinched wire somewhere.

Thanks for the prompt response once again Richard. I have sent you an email. My 996 is a 2003 C4. I assume these are the plugs they are trying to source for me. After being told Porsche would not sell them seperate to the complete wiring harness apparently they tried Audi and Volkswagen as they are the same plugs for their clusters but again no joy. I suppose checking for a pinched wire would mean removing the dash? Either way I will hopefully get the car back in the garage for them to check again and keep you posted.

I haven't received your email yet - try richard996 (at) gmail d0t c0m (Obfuscated, as the spam has started!) There is a VW/Audi connector which fits into the cluster plugs of the 2003 cars, and the VW part number I have for it is 00.979.009. This is a "repair wire" with a connector at each end. I don't know the part number of the plug itself but this has been a useful link for WW/Audi connectors: http://www.nsxjr.com/Audipins.html If your guys can check that they are getting the appropriate supply and earth connections it would be a starting point. Edit: The cluster plug looks very much like this one: http://www.nsxjr.com/partpix/1J0-972-977G.jpg

It won't be the MAF. If it just died suddenly, and you can't crank it, it almost sounds like the immobiliser has cut in. The carpet under the passenger seat didn't get wet did it? You are correct that you will need a Porsche tester to diagnose it though.

Richard, whilst the carpet was wet it did not reach beyond the lip under the passenger seat and therefore i assumed it was caught before reaching the said unit, however it may well be that i am wrong. The immobiliser does sound about right as everything else works. Does this have to be reset or dealt with at a dealer or can i possibly dry out with a hairdryer. Clutching at straws here, but if there is any chance of getting it going for a mile and a half to home at least it would be great!!!

As another thought Richard....is it possible to bypass the immobiliser with any actions from the key or by possibly disconnecting the battery terminals for a few seconds. Thanks If its a stupid question i apologise in advance

No, you can't bypass the immobiliser - that's it's purpose!! I have a horrible feeling that the alarm control module has got wet from the earlier episode of the leak, and if it has then it is likely to be toast. Sometimes they can be salvaged by removing the lid and drying it out, but 9 times out of 10 its a goner.

Many thanks Richard for your quick response. If i tow it home and remove the passenger seat, (i assume this will be easy) is it easy to recognise the said unit to have a go at drying out, ie is it stand alone. If not, any ideas on cost issues!!! Many thanks again. ps Towing will have to be late tonight so as not to be seen!!!

I had a similar problem in the south of France a couple of years ago, power cut out whilst driving along. was stuck in the middle of know where, lucky was only 45 min from my folks place and the old man towed me to safety, to the amusement of many french folk. Anyway turned out to be the Fuel pump, which even surprised the guy in the most unpleasent looking back street garage who fixed it, and was a top man. Would be intrested to hear how you get on. Phil

Did you get absolutely nothing from the ignition....ie no noise at all when you turn the key??

Good point engine would turn over just no go. Good luck

Richard if you are still online wonder if im on the right tracks.... Been on the porsche parts catalogue and although mine is 98' the catalogue for 05' car shows part number 996 618 260 06 as the control unit for immobiliser, central locking system and alarm system....there is also a part number of 999 607 064 00 which mentions a 15a fuse. As ive got no car at the moment to drive i would like to ask; 1. Does this mean that if the control unit houses the immobiliser, central locking and alarm and the latter two work...would this eliminate the immobiliser possibly being the problem, or 2. Could it be that there is a fuse in this unit Anyone throw any light on this as i can't really do anything manual tonight so thought i'd delve into some technical questions albeit probably miles off the point. thanks

Fuse B8 is for the alarm and engine ECU. If you pull it, it usually sets off the alarm siren. If you car locks and unlocks via remote, then I don;t think it is the fuse. The immobiliser circuit is built in to the alarm module, and if it has got wet part of the module might work, but not all. You'll be able to see the module by sliding the seat all the way forward. If you need to remove the seat, you'll need an E12 Torx Star Socket. 4 screws and it comes out easily - it's the plug underneath which is tricky to disconnect. You have to slide the housing sideways for it to come apart. I think you are correct that there is a fuse in/on the module itself. If everything is dry under there, it would be worth checking. I guess it might also be one of the relays behind the rear seats (another area that got wet). The DME relay, which is in position 1 on the relay carrier (top left). Switch it for relay 2, to see if it will crank. (It might not run though). Alarm control unit: 996.618.260.06 - £226.59+VAT (plus it will need programming). DME Relay: 141.951.253.B - £10.21+VAT

Thanks Richard....will have a closer look tomorrow. Have just been out and towed it home. Have had a good look and feel under the passengers seat and it looks bone dry. However, there are some stains on the metal cover plate behind the rear passengers seat on the sort of parcel shelf. I will take this cover off and have a good look as the stains indicate that this may well be the area that got wet. Many thanks for your support again, lets hope tomorrow brings out the cheaper option. David

Todays lack of success. 1. Took out rear carpet shelf...swapped over relays 1 and 2...no luck even though my fingers were crossed. 2. Removed passenger seat...removed control unit....removed and checked 15 amp fuse connected to back of unit....opened unit up...dry and clean inside. Placed everything back....no luck. Don't think i have any more options but to have the car towed somewhere and fixed. Mind you i'm learning a lot about the car through these posts. Unless anyone has any other thoughts!!! Many thanks again though Richard....is there anything that we could have missed??? Gone to have a sulk in the bath now.

Do you have another key you could try? They have an immobiliser pill in them, and although I've never heard of one going bad it is always possible. Other than that, I think you'll need to get a diagnostic check done which (hopefully) will reveal what's going on.

No....unfortunately when i bought the car 4 years ago i was only given 1 key with electronics in and 1 key blank. The electronics went wrong in the original key about a year ago and had to order another which then had to be programmed, this was a fault with the key electronics not talking to the alarm system. The immobiliser pin inside does tend to go a funny colour, sort of green coating on the inside of the glass. I assume this is normal!!! As an afterthought would removing fuse C1 or C2 be worth trying to see if they are broke or would this cause more problems? I will try to phone porsche tomorrow and ask if there is a way of testing the immobiliser pin without the car present. Thanks again ps Thinking about it all....even if the units arent wet, how long does the control unit in these cars tend to last. Mine has done 91k. Just a thought

It is certainly worth checking C1 and C2, and wouldn't cause any other problems. Is there not a decent indy in your area?

I've had something nagging at the back of my mind for a couple of days, and it has finally cone round the loop. There was a chap on another forum who had a similar problem in that it was blowing fuse C1 and the engine would die. In his case, he tracked it down to chafed wiring to the variocam solenoid, which was sporadically shorting and blowing the fuse. So another reason to check C1 (and C2).

Richard....are we getting somewhere. Been working all weekend so still havent had a chance to ring porsche and will look round to see if a good indie exists. However....after all that work FUSE C1 WAS BLOWN. I have replaced the fuse with another one, tried to start the car but nothing. However, upon checking the new fuse, this had also blown so maybe we have the answer, something is shorting it out maybe!!!! The only jobs i have done on the car is; 1. alternator change plus battery 2. track rod ends Is there something near these that could have been knocked etc. I dont know where the variocam solenoid is?? Are we getting closer do you think? Any ideas on what to do next, David

If it keeps blowing C1 then that's definitely your problem. When you changed the alternator you would have removed the airbox and MAF sensor, and the vacuum changeover valve. It would be worth checking those two plugs. The variocam solenoids are on the cylinder heads, so you shouldn't have disturbed them, but a short is occurring somewhere, which is causing the fuse to blow. It is all pretty tight in there, so it's difficult to see much from the top (and not much better from underneath). All you can do is look for something obvious, and then maybe pass it to the professionals. Unfortunately I don't know any specialists in the Cannock area - maybe someone else can chime in here.

Will strip down again to see if any wires seem a little worn. However, everything has been ok since i fitted the alternator, trouble seems to have come just after it went in for an MOT. Probably just a coincidence as i don't think they would be having the boot lid up. Hopefully once i have removed the airbox and electrical fittings who knows i may come across a wire with worn insulation. I will let you know how i get on. David. ps You are right about a close indie, dont think there is one. Was also with PCGB when in Surrey as i enjoyed the monthly meetings and trips organised by them and only lived 5 miles from their meeting place. However, nearest PCGB to Cannock is over 45 miles away so didnt renew membership. I miss the events but find travelling this distance every month after work would be really difficult.

Porscheshop in Halesowen is probably the nearest specialist so not exactly local. Never used them myself (I had a BMW when I lived on the Chase) but they seem to be mentioned reasonably regularly.

Thanks John....at the moment i'm not finding a lot of time as i'm back busy at work but will look them up this weekend to assess the distance etc.

Hi Richard....removed the air box again last night and played around with all the electrical connectors i could find in the rear engine space, ie just disconnected and then reconnected them. Followed each electrical line as far as i could and did not discover any loose wires or worn insulation anywhere. Anyway, once i had refitted everything i decided to jack the rear of the car up (passengers side). I've now discovered where my vario-cam is. The unit seems to have a braided wire running to a fitting which seems to be held on with 2 bolts. The outside coating seemed a little brittle and slightly crumbled away leaving what i think is about half the braiding at the connecting point. I followed this wire which then seems to go into another fitting on the engine,(maybe the variocam solenoid, or is the photo itself the variocam solenoid??). Not sure how this connects or disconnects etc but seems very solid. A long shot i know but do you think that this slightly corroded wire could have caused the problem and if so do you know how the other end etc can be disconnected and replaced. About a week or so before the problem there was on the very odd occasion, moments when the revs would vary when idling, but this was not very often. Many thanks, David

Hello there The most local Indi to you could be, CMS in Telford, there good,and keep loads of spares too.01952 608911, give them a bell. cheers Andy

That doesn't look like the Variocam solenoid, but it does look suspect, whatever it is. The v/c solenoid has a coil which is screwed to the cam cover, and has a plug as shown in the attachment. Edit: After reading your post again, the lumpy idle sounds very much like a variocam solenoid. If the wires are intact, perhaps the coil has shorted out inside.

Hi Richard, still not got round to looking into this as busy last weekend and a damn cold this weekend. Anyway, placed another fuse into C1, turned ignition to on but not fully, just to see if fuse would blow. Everything was ok. Turned fully to start car and it did, but only ran for about 20 seconds, quite lumpy, then heard fuse blow. Does the fact that it started now eliminate the immobiliser and computer under the passenger seat, albeit only for 20 secs ? Funny that it started for just a short while!!! I am going to re look at the wire i photographed hopefully again mid week. David E

Sorry, once again as i typed my last message thought what the hell and got under the car again. Took another photo Richard. The fiitting photographed earlier may have been too close for you to see. I have taken a shot further out. Here you can see this fitting fastened to the side of the variocam unit. This is why i thought it maybe the variocam solenoid. Looks a little like your picture, if you look closely you can see the words variocam. Do you think i am ok removing the bolts and replacing as the wire is not that brilliant. Could this be the issue?? The photo was taken lying under the car just behind the wheel facing inwards and up. Cheers

Edited: I think that is the Variocam solenoid. Something is shorting out, which is blowing the fuse, but I can't say it is the solenoid for sure - it is just that someone else had it happen. If you trace the wire back, you should find a connector a few inches back. Try disconnecting it to see if it stops blowing a fuse. Remember there is one on the other bank too! If it started briefly, then you can rule out the immobiliser.

richard....disconnected the plug as stated and car started and continued to run. So it looks like this is the problem after all. however, once i had removed the 2 bolts the unit didnt want to come out. is it just stuck or do i have to unscrew the unit itself? can the unit also be tested off the car? only just found out from another post that your quoting £115 for the unit!!! thanks, David

I think you'll find it is just stuck. I would be very careful, and to be honest now that you have tracked down the problem I would be tempted to take it to an indy if I were you. The workshop manual says that you can only do it with the coil vertical (ie engine out of the car) so although I know it can be done with the engine in place, there might be a trick to it.

Our buyer's checklist would be a useful starting point when viewing a car. You can get a copy via here: http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=269468# A lot depends on your budget, but I would say go for the newest car you can afford with reasonable mileage, that has a good service history. If you are going to keep the car for, say, 3 years, then you will be adding 45000 miles, so it is likely to end up being high mileage anyway. So you would have to buy one with extremely low mileage (and pay a premium) to end up with moderate mileage when you come to sell it. The Tip/Manual debate will run forever, but you should at least test drive a Tip, as it might surprise you. As for 2/4WD, they both have a different feel, so again, you need to try both. I've had both, and I have to say that I prefer the more pure Porsche feel of 2WD when I'm in the mood for a bit of spirited driving, but the 4WD is very reassuring in difficult conditions. Hope this highly non-commital reply helps, and enjoy your search.

The buyers guide Richard has linked is a great guide for buying. Make sure you look through the history and have a good read of it, as the OPC service paperwork will give engineers reports on any potential faults or issues at the service intervals, and you can see if authorisation was given to carry out the repairs and if they were then completed during that or later services. Don't be affraid to take time looking at the history when looking at the car, the owner should expect it. Make a note of where the services were carried out, if they were specialists and not OPC, then give them a call with the reg and ask them to validate the work carried out. If there was a recent service call the garage that serviced the car and try to speak to the tech that dealt with it to see if he can tell you anything else about the car (he may recall it if it was recent). If any history is missing, call any garages that are documented to have dealt with the car and ask them when, and at what mileages the car was seem, they will have a record. Always check the reg / vin against the history. You can get peter morgan to do a check, or an OPC to do a (200 point I think) check for around 150.00 or a more thorough check for around 200.00 (but you will need to get the car to the OPC, and likely the owner won't let you take it there, so you will need to be patient and arrange it around them). As Richard said, the mileage you are doing will mean you will want to ideally get a lower mileage model. I bought mine as what I thought was a bit of a bargain, it was high mileage, but it was mint, as an example I have only done 750 miles in the past 5 months, so I am in a different situation. You will likely pay a premium for a lower mileage model (although I recently spoke to someone who purchased a C4, same age as mine with half of the mileage for the same price, he happened to be in the right place at the right time!). Don't rush into buying one - I did (it's easy to when you see one in the flesh that looks, sounds and goes well), and in all honesty I love my 996 (I loved the colour, interior, sound and everything about the car when I first saw it), but my funds were limited, and I am starting to have to add things to mine to get it to where I want to be. Now I suppose this isn't a bad thing, as the I am renewing a lot of stuff vs it being old, however I probably would have rather waited a few months until now when I was in a better position and just put a extra few k in and got a model already with everything I wanted, or got a lower mileage model. Still, who knows what's around the corner (could have just as easily been in a worse position). I wouldn't say mileage is everything though, I would generally much rather have a car with comprehensive history that has wanted for nothing than have a lower mileage model with sketchy history. Take it for a good, long test as well - several times if you can. I took my car out three times over the course of a week before commiting (although my mind was pretty much made up after the first drive and as soon as I saw it! I just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to let me down when I handed the cash over). Good l uck.

You have a fuel tank and a pump. Fuel tanks themsleves have no moving parts, ergo it is the pump in my humble opinion, unless it is the cd changer, but the sound would be coming from further forward. It is not immediately appreciated that the Turbo has a saddle type of fuel tank becuase of the front diff, and according to my Porsche Appreticed indie, if the fuel level is allowed to go too low, the suction side of the pump can draw air when going up a bit of an incline; generally submerged fuel pumps tend to be of the roller type with the fuel flowing through the the pump, over the commutator and out, and acting as a lubricant, so no fuel or an aerated flow could lead to pump damage, and unless you have owned the car form new there is no guarantee that a previous owner has not let this happen. A squeak or squeal means the pump will be making more effort to turn so you might be able to see how much current it is drawing, but unfortunately I can't tell you what it shoud be. There is not much under the bonnet on the 996 and if you remove the plastic trim you could unplug the cd, and pretty much if you have a squeak the pump is all that is left running. That said you could have the beginning of a brake sevo diphragm splitting and a tiny split may well manifest itself as a squeak or squeal, and is darn site easier to check before you as you say lash out £500 on a new pump. £500, I thought the throttle body at £670 was bad enough. I presume that is the price for a genuine Porsche Part. Porsche Centre Exeter have built quite a good reputation for their prices on spares but this might just be on the front engined 924/68 ranges but worth a phone call. Not related but I just bought a two lever column switch from PC reading which was cheaper thne the identical item from an on line independant but I didn't surf every site. Places like Berlyn Sevices now known as Parts for Porsche, Type 911 and design 911 are all places to visit to compare prices

For example Design 911 have a genuine Porsche part fuel pump for £235 suits boxster 996/997. Does the 996 have two pumps?

Hi Mick If you cant tell precisely what it is get a decent indie to check it,Richard may be along later to give some sage advice FYI the roller pumps are VDO I wouldnt let anybody relieve me of £500 just for a pump sprinkled with porshce fairy dust,for that money you can buy the motorsport pump http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/180764-fuel-pump-system-exposed-couple-pictures.html do a websearch on the fuel pump there is certainly plenty out there onthe american sites as below, Kevin from ultimate motor werks did a great piece on replacing the standard pump with the motosport one just helpful from the point ofview or removing and reinstallling and general info http://www.turboflatsix.com/ultimate-motorwerks-tank-t191.html?s=aec7cfecbdc1728efb0cba74c996c24b& he suggests there are two additional pumps in the tank which are scavenge pumps good luck

Thank you for your replies The squeal is definately coming from the fuel tank I had a good listen and put my ear to the top of tank and it is deffinately where the noise is coming from I have done a few serches for the pump and most places dont list the pump and say main dealer only What are your thoughts on this comment i read on Rennlist and is this right about resetting the computers on the key if so would that not be a good idea to reset the computers every now and again to make sure everything is working as it should . I have not heard about this The comment I heard that Porsche computer systems sometime lose their place and that if you turn the key to "on" position but not start the car and leave it in the "on" position for a couple of minutes the electronics "reset". I did this last night and today the car now fires right up and the pump doesn't whine.

happy days £500 saved!

Sadly not richard the above comment was something i read on a forum . i have tried this reset this morning and the pump is still squealing so it has not cured the problem so I am still looking for any advice on this

The "computers" don't "lose their place". What the Rennlist post was probably referring to is the routine for resetting the fuel adaption vales in the DME. Over a period of time, the DME adapts the fuelling to account for fuel quality and conditions. The adaption values can be reset to factory default by switching on the ignition for 60 seconds, without touching the throttle pedal, and then switching it off for at least 10 seconds. On the original topic, IIRC the fuel supply on the 996T is returnless, and the pump should only run for a few seconds when the ignition is switched on, but the engine stopped. Does the squealing go on continuously? Also, when you say you have listened to it at the tank, do you mean by the filler neck, or under the battery in the front compartment?

now were is Richard when you need him must be frequenting the cayman forum

Don't worry Richard - I'm here! You just needed to wait a few seconds....

Hi Richard the pump makes the usual sound of pressuring up i then start the car and the squeal starts a couple of seconds later. it is continuos while I am driving and does not really change its pitch and soon as i turn engine off it stops I really am baffled by this as i have used the car all day today locally just lots of small runs stopping and starting and the car runs fine and there is no loss of power As to listening to the sound i have had my ear to the filler cap and also removed the plastic trim and carpet from under the bonnet and then removed the metal dome in front of battery and my pump is under there well the large plastic ring and all the pipes and electrics are there i know the pump is attached to the bottom of the tank as i have searched forums for advice and although no mechanic i have a bit of an understanding of the layout Do you think that at some point the pump will pack up and i will have a breakdown or if i am understanding your post corectly once the pump pressures the system it stops so I guess if it does pack up it should be that the car just wont start rather than cutting out as I am driving If it is the pump then I will get it changed but dont want to put a £500.00 pound part on the car only to find it is something else and the new pump does not sort it. I have been down this road with my van being told i need to change a part done so and it has not fixed the problem wasted £150.00 because it was something else lol Thankyou for your help on this one kind regards Mick

The pump will run for a couple of seconds on switching on the ignition, and will then run when the engine starts. So it does sound like it is only happening while the pump is running. Seems like you have checked the right things, and it must surely be the pump itself. I assume it must be a bearing has failed in the pump which is making the noise. If so, it isn't going to fix itself, and will surely fail at some point. My only other thought is that it might be a split tube, making a reed-type sound, but I think it less likely.

Thankyou for your help I am going on holiday for 2 weeks now so will have another look when I get back and probably go for the new pump I will post on here if it fixes the problem if anyone else has any opinions on this please post and i can look at them when I get back thanks again Mick