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original regulator and the cable broke at the motor
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Reported cause
Looks like it was the original regulator and the cable broke at the motor.
Leading evidence: 'original regulator and the cable broke at the motor' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'original regulator and the cable broke at the motor' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust angle of the wiper ams' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
, I've installed the Child Seat Air Bag Deactivation kit, but it requires Porsche System Tester 2 coding to work.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
As a point of reference, I replaced the master window switch on the driver side of my S/O's car yesterday.
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74 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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I often have small questions that don't need an entire thread devoted to them. On other forums, the "small questions" threads are really great for those.
If you have a small question, post it here and maybe someone has the answer.
Can anyone recommend a windshield wiper that doesn't tap the cowl? I have modern Bosch wipers. They look cool, but I think they are wider at the tip than what was originally spec'd on the car. So, when on the high wiper speed, it taps the cowl, "tap, tap, tap, tap, tap..."
I've confirmed that mine are the correct size. I've tried to reorient the wiper arm by removing it then rotating it one notch, but then it's too high. Maybe there's a way to micro-adjust the angle of the wiper ams?
I have not. I have wiggled the wiper arm to see if there is any play and there is not.
Here is the issue (see pic).
I think I may just buy the same wiper but one size shorter for the passenger side.
I seem to remember I ran into this problem years ago. My drivers side blade is 22 inches. My passenger side blade is 21 inches. Try that. Both Bosch blades.
The type of Bosch wiper shown in this image is not the OEM type they sell at Pelican. I'm not saying anything other than what I see and I have the same as Pelican with no issues.
Here's is where it gets confusing. The Bosch book at Napa has 22" for both sides. ECS Tuning has 22" on both sides for OEM blades (look at that price, lol).
I'm gonna order this set.
But, I do think a 22"/21" set from Napa would work, too.
OK. Update.
This is $35 on Amazon and $20 on FCP Euro.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...set-3397001582
Gonna go with FCP Euro. Need to order some other small parts as well anyway.
3.
Front regulators take about 20 minutes once you have done it a few times.
If it is your first time it will probably take twice as long.
I�m not sure what book time is though.
Shops will likely charge a full hour, so call around and see what their hourly rate is.
Rear regulator is harder and takes longer.
Thanks, I like the sound of a 3
Time to order a regulator, watch some YouTube videos and then find a weekend to give it a try haha.
What�s the worst that can happen?
The worst that can happen is you could drop the window.
With most vehicles, I use tape to secure the window to the door/window frame while replacing the regulator.
With windows without a full frame, like the 9x6, you’ll have to slide it out and place it somewhere safe.
Be sure to do two things: take a sharpie or grease pencil and mark the window glass before you loosen the regulator window glass clamps; do the same thing for the bottom of the regulator (the two feet that sit inside the door). This will save hours getting the regulator and window glass back in place.
Bruce, I would love to see a timed marathon where you replace the regulator in just 20 minutes.
I've done the job several times, and it takes more than 20 minutes just unhooking the negative battery terminal, removing door trim, unbolting and unsnapping the door panel off, removing air bag, speaker box, and moisture barrier. You add removing the motor, marking and safely removing the glass and then lastly unbolting the regulator from inside and below, it is easily 1 hour at this point.
Then another hour installing the new regulator, motor, carefully inserting the glass, reinstalling the airbag and reconnecting the battery in order to conduct an alignment test. If it's not perfect, then it's back to adjustment and then test again. This can be a back and forth procedure. But once that's done, then it's reassembling all the door panel goodies (e.g. moisture barrier, speaker box, etc.), reattaching the panel, bolting it on and putting the handle cover and courtesy light back on and calling it a day.
I would say it's more like a 2-3 hrs job if done carefully and not being in a rush.
As per the book
101 PROJECTS FOR YOUR PORSCHE 911 1998-2008
, I've installed the Child Seat Air Bag Deactivation kit, but it requires Porsche System Tester 2 coding to work. Is this something that I can do at home with an Autel or some other scan tool? I have an Autel MX808. Or do I need to take this to an independent or main dealer?
The setting is "Child seat occupancy" = "active"
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...803-083-02-OEM
I've never done a 996 regulator but I've done plenty on other cars and I can't see it being done in 40 minutes much less 20.
As a point of reference, I replaced the master window switch on the driver side of my S/O's car yesterday. I just had to remove an upper panel that was a one Torx screw, 12 clips and two electrical plugs. This job is about as simple as it gets and it took me over 20 minutes. Just sayin'...
Updates:
Got the new wiper blades installed. They are indeed 22" in the driver's side and 21" on the passenger side. Also, the passenger side curves upward away from the cowl as @TheChunkNorris mentions.
I got this coded for no charge at my local dealership.
GREAT IDEA for a thread!
I've read that I can delete the cupholders and move my HVAC controls to that location. I can't seem to find a kit.
Any ideas where I can get something. I also have access to a nice 3d printer and modeling software... if someone has happened to have made something.
A lot depends on your current configuration and the desired end configuration. I have a similar thread where I went from a double-din system to single din and moved a lot of those modules around. Maybe this thread can help you figure out what's involved:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...do-i-need.html
Forgot to mention:
Replaced spark plugs, coils & tubes - No problem
Replaced water pump & coolant - No problem
Replaced coolant tank - No problem
Replaced windshield wipers - F&*$@#ed it up and broke the new wiper
I replaced my window regulator today!
I would rate it a 4 1/2
Took me a little longer than twice 20 minutes.
Okay, a lot longer haha
Thanks for the motivation, seriously
Great advice to mark the glass and bottom of the regulator.
I just took my time and documented every step and it wasn�t that bad.
Looks like it was the original regulator and the cable broke at the motor.
Going to remove my bumper and clean out the radiators, first time doing it. Is there anything else I should do while I have it apart? Any pitfalls or other things to do while I have it apart?
Fairly straight-forward process, just be careful when separating the condensors from the radiators that you don't put too much force on the AC lines. I was surprised how much debris was trapped between my condensors & rads.
I would make sure you relocate or locate the frunk emergency pull cable so that it can be used in the future. Also make sure both horns work properly today. The horns are cheap to replace, and if one fails, I would replace them both. I think it�s super easy if the bumper cover is already off.
And just use a regular hose - not a pressure washer - to clean the radiators and AC condensers.
I finished this last night so I didn�t see these suggestions... Anyways, mines an early build so it�s a pull cable for the frunk, but I didn�t see the emergency release anyways. Also on the horn, it was like 11pm so I wasn�t going to test them. Definitely things I�ll keep my eye out for next time. It was pretty easy to remove anyways 👍🏼
New owner and member here. 1999 996 Carrera 4 Cab.
I have the spoiler light coming on indicating no auto deploy/retract. Deployed manually to discover that the teeth were shredded in drive unit. Removed and replaced with a used unit that had mint teeth. Manual mode now fully deploys and fully retracts.
Light still coming on with no auto deploy/retract. Loooking back through service records of PO. When they discovered the issue they �deployed spoiler and locked in up position�.
My thought is that they probably pulled the relays for the spoiler and that they control the auto (speed) aspect of the system. Looks like I�ll need to get the top in service position and get in that way to access those relays.
Am I on the right track?
thanks!
Welcome to the forum...!!!
Probably have to figure out how the previous owner "locked out the spoiler".
But Yes, under the behind rear seat carpet panel, access to remove is in top service position. This is where the #2(up) & #8(down) spoiler relays are.
jmo
Planning to install the rear coilovers tonight. I've done a little research and nothing seems intimidating especially since Im removing coilovers to replace with coilovers.
Any tips or surprises I should be prepared for? Plan is to get the whole rear in the air to 'relieve' the sway bar from any pressure the opposite side will put on it.
The rear is about as simple as can be. The only tough spot is holding the rear mount up high enough to get the bolts started in the car. You need 12 foot long arms or a helper or get clever with a floor jack.
so quick update with a follow-up.
Got the rear out, super easy and was ready to install the GT3 units, but realized 2 things:
(1) I cant find my coilover adjusters, so I need to meet up with my buddy to borrow his, and
...the one I need your help with...
(2) The GT3 Coilovers dont have the top nuts and the Godspeed units I took out are a total different pitch/ thread. Is there an easy way to see what the pitch/ thread is besides taking the coilovers with me to the hardware store? Im guessing M8, maybe M10 but not sure of the threads.
I don't use coil over adjusters, I use punches.
They work better in my opinion.
I also use strap wrenches to adjust coilovers, expecially if they have been used before.
If you have a die/tap set, then you should have a gauge that will help identify the pitch.
If you have a set of calipers, measure to see if it is M8 (8mm) or M10 (10mm)
Measure the OD of the threads.
You have a few options:
1: Check your local Porsche dealership. I would imagine that that nut is something that's common and probably in a bin in the back of every parts dept. Being in SoCal, you probably have more than one Porsche dealership that you can call. Especially if you have the part number for the nut.
2: For testing, does one of the top nuts from the rear fit the front? If so, you can then take that nut to the hardware store to find 6 more with the same pitch.
3: Go buy a few similarly sized nuts (M8, M10, etc... with matching washers) and use the ones that fit until the GT3 nuts arrive.
4: If you have the coilover out, then, yeah, take it with you and get the nuts and washers that fit until the GT3 nuts arrive.
Doing the hardware store stuff above will keep the install moving and when the proper nuts arrive, you can remove/replace one at a time without affecting the install or alignment.
My mechanic showed me how to properly use the coilover adjusters that come with this little square in the handle:
You stick a socket wrench in there and can ratchet the rings 🤯
The original adjusters that come with my set of Feal coilovers bent easily.
Feal suggested just using punches and that what I've used since then on multiple Feal & H&R coilover installs/adjustments.
The tool above looks nice, but I'll probably stick with punches, although I do like buying tools...hmm...
I don�t know if you�ll be able to get any of the GT settings because they use two piece control arms. Think you should get as close to C4S as possible especially if you don�t track.
Hey y'all,
I've recently become the 8th owner of a 2002 996.2 C2 coupe. Planning on dropping the sump soon for a general debris inspection and to do a bore scope from underneath to check for bore scoring.
I've seen two mentions of revisions to the sump plate that occurred during the lifetime of the M96.
One person said Porsche redesigned the sump plate with added grooves to better control oil flow.
Another said the plates were weak and had a habit of breaking if the driver got unlucky with road debris or the engine scraped on anything. Porsche added material to strengthen the plate.
As far as I can tell from looking at pictures of the current OEM part, the first claim is bunk but the second could be true.
Since I'm taking it off anyway, I'd like to know what sump plate my car currently has so I can evaluate replacing it. Hoping to learn:
What year did Porsche switch to the latest revision of the sump plate?
Do all the sump plates share part number 996-107-031-60 or did older revisions of the sump plate have different part numbers?
That's good to know! This would explain why the tech using the Hunter alignment machine was fighting with it when I asked him to use GT2 specs a few weeks ago when I first got the springs/shocks installed (see attached). I'm due for a follow-up alignment (after the suspension had settled). I'll ask him to use C4S specs this time.
The autoatlanta parts breakdown shows a single part number for all years. There does appear to have been an earlier revision ending in -58.
https://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-...section=101-05
If you're contemplating replacement I recommend looking into the various deep sumps that are available. Otherwise I would just "run what you brung."
IIRR, the early sumps had bolts that were not protected and hung down below sump. Both my 2001 996.1 & 2002 996.2 have countersunk protected bolts.
Some owners ended up catching the bolts on low protruding road debris, parking lot entrances, driveways, etc... When the bolts would 'catch on something, it would rip the sump up and maybe also removing a chunk of the cases/block in the process.
After Porsche had to replace a number of these busted engines they came out with the current sump with countersunk protected bolts to help mitigate the problem by letting the sump be able to just 'slide over stuff instead of catching on exposed steel bolt heads and tearing apart the engine...
jmo
+1 for using a punch. Road salt makes almost every brand's coilover spanners useless.
Most OEM specs err heavily on the understeer "safe" side and chew up tires. If you want to minimize tire wear for street driving, you can give them custom specs to run the tire as neutral as possible. For example:
Front camber: -1.0 to "max" (depends how much highway driving you do vs cornering. "max" is only around 1.5 anyways)
Rear camber: -0.5 to -1.0
Front toe: 0.00deg per tire
Rear toe: 0.08-0.15deg per tire
The reasoning for higher front camber is because front McPherson struts lose camber as you steer, so unless you only ever drive in a straight line, a touch of camber balances the wear out. Every McStrut car I've owned with 0 camber up front (incl my C2 as delivered) wears the front tire into a noticeable cone - wasteful. The low rear toe will reduce rear traction on- and off-throttle which can be a plus or minus, but the more toe, the more the tire gets dragged across the road vs rolling over, wasting fuel and tread.
Two quick ones:
(1) Front coilover swap. Sway bar tab fully removed, 3 top nuts are loose. Coilover appears ready to come out. Do I just need to put weight on the carrier and pull it up and out? Feels that way, but ran out of time and didnt want to muscle it without being prepared... seems too easy, but maybe it IS just that easy to swap.
(2) Pulled the spare out of the frunk along with all the tools, but want to get the tools back in there just in case. I believe this organizer is the right place to start, but is there more I need to "complete" it? I think its the cover and inflator
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...96GT3FOAM.html
Thanks!
Correct, if C2.If C4, you will have to disconnect the driveshaft from the transmission in order to move the carrier enough.
There is also a cover that is required.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKU996GTFC.html
Also buy some adhesive velcro or some black automotive carpet to cover the slight piece of the foam that shows.
It will look much better.
Seems a little silly to spend $100 for something that doesn't fit right, but that's how it is, I guess.
Are all of the tools already in the kit that's currently inside the spare? I haven't pulled them out to compare.
EDIT: Went ahead and purchased both. Lets see what it all looks like when I install it.
Yep, but this is not really designed for the Carrera.
It is for the GT2 & GT3 with are slightly different than the C2.
I assume they fit better in the GTx frunk.
Most, but not all.
The first aid kit, the compressor, the warning triangle, and the tire sealant need to be purchased.
The rest comes from the original kit.
The jack can be left out.
I have added to the tools, and I carry a spare belt, spare UAOS diaphragm, torque wrench, breaker bar, hex keys, t-shirt, gloves, paper towels, and some other tools
I knew there was a few other pieces missing. I will have to get the First aid Kit soon, then stash my pennies for the $389 Tire repair kit
The prices must've gone up because I think the last time I had priced everything I would need it was like $500, but todays prices brings the 'complete' kit to $741 (or $749).
Frunk Organizer $112 OR $120 (not sure why there are two...)
Organizer Cover $95
Tire Compressor $ 280
Tire Foam Sealant $109
First Aid Kit $55
Warning Triangle $90
I've got a fun one...
The holder of 5 plastic lenses that sits in front of our gauge dials, is this the same between 996.1 and 996.2? Or did it change at some point? I'm eyeing buying a cheaper .1 cluster to scavenge that part and replacing the scarred one on my .2.
Thanks!
