Convertible Top Problem

Earlier today, a friend and I did a bunch of routine maintenance to my ‘06 Boxster including replacing the engine air filter. When we reconnected the cables and clips and tried to put the top back up, the top lowered to connect at the windshield, but only the driver side of the lid was moving so we moved the switch in the other direction to move the lid on that side back to be even with the passenger side.. After digging around, we discovered that the white plastic piece on the convertible top arm on both sides had sheared off where it attaches to the wall behind the doors. Also if we tried to quickly tap the switch to raise or lower the top it sounded like maybe a gear was stripped somewhere. In order to get the top back up, we had to detach part of the arms connected to the lid. This let us manually close the top and and lower the deck lid. Has anyone run into this and tried to fix it? I’m sure one of the local dealers could do it but I don’t know how many thousands that might cost. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Not sure it's exactly the same as an 06 Series but I'm sure there are similarities. The top on the 986 series had "service mode". You navigated the top position as described in the manual and then the rear section folded forward after the cable ends were disconnected. Did you follow the protocols for taking the top out of "service mode"? It was a misjudgment manipulating the top electrically after observing the difference in timing from one side to the other. Given the linkage failure and the noise you describe you might have compromised a motor too. An at home repair would include inspection and replacement of any broken components (cables, motors ) and reestablishment of the clamshell timing and movement geometry before repair completion. It might not be thousands to repair at all and there may be indy convertible top repair centers with Boxster knowledge that can handle it.

It's not clear at all to me what you mean by "the white plastic piece on the convertible top arm on both sides had sheared off where it attaches to the wall behind the doors." I suspect you mean the white ball-sockets that are on the rod assembly going from the top transmissions to the top mechanism. This piece? (#3?): That's the only white plastic part I know of. Is this (#3) what you describe as "the wall"? The rearward end of the rod assembly attaches to what I prefer to call the "bell-crank (#2)", and parts #3 and #4 are the "transmission". What's likely to have happened: When moving the top into the service position, the white plastic socket on one side broke. Not surprising given the age of the component and that white nylon does tend to degrade with age. Having one side broken means closing force was only exerted on the other side, so the side without a broken socket moved forward ahead of the other side (basically twisting the frame of the top.) When you reversed the direction of travel it seems likely the other white plastic socket broke due to the twisting force exerted on it. So now both arms are no longer connected to the top mechanism, but they ARE connected to the transmissions on each side of the mechanism. ( @Boristhespyder ) There is only ONE motor. There are two gearboxes on the 987, one per side, cable-driven from a single motor mounted to the body at the rear of the deck lid area. Chances are - you reversed the direction once again (toward closing). The arms having broken ball-sockets (#1, top drawing) have now dropped down into the well the top mechanism lives in, and have jammed against the bottom. Trying to close the lid forces these into the bottom of that well and jams the transmission. The transmission has a plastic gear inside it - which is the next weak point in the assembly. One of the gears may have failed. OK - how to fix it? New ball-sockets are obvious. These can be had for very small $$$ on Amazon. Black-nylon ones - 2 for around $15. I just received a pair (shipped from NJ, made in China). Aside from the color - identical to the originals. OR - you can replace the entire arm - way more $$ - about $150 from Porsche. There are vendors selling replacement gears for the gearboxes. Both Gears: Amazon.com: Top Transmission Gears L+R Side Compatible With Porsche Boxster Convertible 1997-2012 98756118001 : Automotive ​ The ball-sockets: Amazon.com: LAFORMO 986 987 Boxster Convertible Soft Top Push Rod Ball Joint OEM Repair Kit : Automotive ​ IMPORTANT NOTE - the gearboxes are LEFT and RIGHT sides - you must order the correct side for the one that has failed. Ditto on the gears to rebuild your existing one(s). The items above are for both sides. While there are steel replacements available for both the ball-sockets and the transmission gears - I'd recommend against the use of them. The plastic pieces are basically "fuses" designed to fail before other parts are damaged if the mechanism jams. This is a PITA job because of having to work around the top panel. IMPORTANT: This should not be confused with a step-by-step DIY! I have no idea of your mechanical abilities or the tools you have. This is a general outline of what would have to be done to effect a repair on the top. If one had all the needed parts at hand before starting the job, I would guestimate for a home wrench it would take 8 hours or so to complete the repair. If someone has done all of this before - you can probably cut that time in half. First - the top is put into the service position. Remove the end of the broken pushrods from the transmission bell-cranks (#2 in the second illustration). Mark the position of the broken plastic socket ends on the metal rod using some tape wrapped around the arm, so when they're replaced the new ones will be screwed in the same amount as the old ones. Figure out which transmission is broken - and remove it. Replace or rebuild it. This is the point where it becomes amusing, around 2006 Porsche changed the transmission design to a new improved one, which requires different mounting standoffs to mount to the body of the car. How to determine which ones you have? Dunno. If replacing the transmission(s) I'd probably assume with a 2006 that you have the old ones and simply order new mounting standoffs from Porsche and have them on hand in case they're needed. If unneeded you can probably return them. If you're rebuilding the broken transmission - that won't be necessary. The drive cable from the motor is disconnected at the gearbox before replacement/rebuild, and connected to the new (or rebuilt gearbox.) Now you have to get them aligned (both in the same rotational position) - that's done by reconnecting the cables at the gearbox end, and disconnecting them at the motor end, then using an electric drill connected to the one that was rebuilt/replaced, and getting the bell-crank arm in the same rotational position as the undisturbed one. Finally, reassemble the whole thing. There is an alignment procedure - a bit involved to describe here. It can be found on the AllDataDIY website for the 987 series (that's a subscription sort of thing.) And look for any holes the broken ends might have punched in the rubber membrane that lines the top-well. I expect a tire patch might be used to fix those holes (if found.) IF all this seems too much - find a good independent who is knowledgeable with Porsche convertible tops. If you take it to Porsche they won't use any of the aftermarket or replacement parts. Porsche mechanics don't rebuild ANYTHING - they replace broken parts with new. A replacement gearbox from Porsche is over $600 (each) - the ones from URO are around $80. Replacements of the pushrod arms complete - which Porsche would use are probably in excess of $100 each, vs about $7 for a replacement plastic piece. My totally WAG - done by an independent shop with the parts I listed above, you're looking at around 6 hours labor and the cost of the parts. Done by Porsche - probably 8 hours labor plus the hugely more expensive parts they'll use. Possibly $1000 for an independent to $3,000 by Porsche. Done DIY - zero labor, maybe $200 for parts. I would NOT attempt a DIY without either the PDF version of the service manual (you can often find that listed on ummm... this forum.. for free) or a subscription to AllDataDIY (which is more expensive now - around $50 or so..) Good luck! Let us know how it turns out. This is a case of fix-it 'til it's broken.. I hate when that happens.

There are some good videos about replacing those. I was able to do it with minimal experience working on cars. I used a paperback book to brace a pry tool for popping them back on to the ball joint.

Haven’t had a chance to do anything on this. My friend with the garage developed bronchitis and then my wife caught a mild case of Covid (she’s fine now). One question. Is there a switch somewhere that tells the system that the top is up? Even though the top is actually up, it thinks it’s not, so the windows won’t go up, making the car not drivable. If we can get that resolved, I could at least drive the car back and forth to work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are microswitches in the top latch at the top of the windshield. Here's a couple of quick videos for a 996, but should be similar

Here’s an update. The top is repaired and working. I took it to one of the local dealers after deciding that was the best option. As someone said in one of the posts in this thread, Porsche changed zones of the parts involved in this around 2006. When the dealer ordered the parts (it’s not something they stock), what they got wasn’t the right ones for my car. Apparently, I had the updated parts and the warehouse sent the previous version which were not compatible. We were hoping that replacing the parts attaching the transmission arms to the top would be enough to fix the issue. Sadly, that was not the case. Ended up needing new gearing and motors, too, as things were really messed up on both sides, which is what I was afraid would be the case. Anyway, it’s back to working and the weather has been perfect the last few days for top down driving. I did have a loaner Macan S while they were doing the work. I want one! Can’t afford one, but I want one. Very nice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there a chance of your posting a copy of the service receipt here (black out your personal info) - I'm curious what Porsche charges for this sort of repair? Thanks!

Yes, I'd be interested in seeing the parts / cost as well.

The total was just over $4,500. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It would be enlightening to see the actual breakdown - parts/labor/etc.

I took a quick look at the work order this morning. The labor was about $1,450 and the parts were about 3,250. This is before sales tax, shop supplies, and PCA discount. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK - thanks. It might be enlightening to those of us with a curious nature to see the actual work order so we could see the PN's of what they replaced. You certainly can black out your ID info and the VIN# if that's a concern. It sounds as if they replaced both gearboxes (around $800 each) and the top motor (there is only ONE.. for around $350) and then what else to make up $3,250 in parts? I can understand a dealership replacing everything in the mechanism since they don't want it coming back to them on their dollar.. but that seems a bit high even in Porsche dollars for parts. Labor was probably around 7 hours - reasonable if parts were replaced rather than repaired.

How’s this? View attachment J# 1 02POZ-6.pdf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great. Thanks. He shotgunned it - replaced everything. There was no mention of the motor being an issue (they're actually pretty rugged), and only one transmission was an issue, he replaced both. He replaced a number of things that if I was fixing it I wouldn't have, but the dealer point of view is they don't want it coming back, and it's your money - so replace it all (shotgun-it.) When I have a chance I'll lookup the parts marked "Internal" - that means they paid for them, and I'm curious what they are. Usually that indicates they screwed up somehow.

Actually, they did try to fix it without replacing the motor. Things did not flow too smoothly with raising and lowering the top with the original motor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk