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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWrong Wheels.... what are these off?!
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Test regime
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Suggestion
With them being replica's, they will most likely not have gone through the testing regime that OEM and quality aftermarket wheels have gone through.
Leading evidence: 'Test regime' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Test regime' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
The VW lads need the high offset Porsche wheels, as even though their usual offsets are in the 30s/40s, they then use a 15/20mm spacer which doubles up a hub adaptor to alter the PCD (bolt pattern) so the wheels will go on their car and sit correctly.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
The VW lads need the high offset Porsche wheels, as even though their usual offsets are in the 30s/40s, they then use a 15/20mm spacer which doubles up a hub adaptor to alter the PCD (bolt pattern) so the wheels will go on their car and sit correctly.
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911uk: 1 discussions
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An expensive mistake has been made.
I bought a set of 4 Mille Miglia Cup 3 17" wheels (996 Twist style) to put winter tyres on for my 996 C2. My C2 currently has factory fit & optioned Turbo style wheels.
Got the wheels fully refurbished and shod with some great winter tyres and..... they don't fit.
I've only tried the rears so far, they'll go on the hub, but there is no chance I can lower the car, they're sticking out too far.
Reading the codes off the back of the wheels they are:
Front - ET23 - 7.5Jx17H2
Rear - ET15 - 9Jx17H2
My current rears are ET65 10Jx18. I haven't taken the fronts off yet, but can check if it helps
Help
(be kind !)
I am guessing, this is unrecoverable - and I need to start again.
Nightmare Conanius.
Mind you I've done plenty of that over the years and have had to sell stuff on. Sometimes you grab a bargain other times you lose.
Glasgow 911 is correct though. Those wheels are replica rims with offsets for early 944s and 70's/80's 911s, as Porsche never made that style of wheel for the old stuff.
They were around in the days when folk wanted to modernise their cars with wheels from newer models.
Unfortunately now, most owners of the old cars want originality or at least 'period" wheels.
They aren't much good to the VW guys either due to the low offsets.
For anyone that doesn't know, think of the offset as the amount of metal machined off the mounting face of a wheel. So an ET15 wheel will stick 50mm further out than than an ET65 wheel, if all else is equal such as widths etc, as it has 50mm more metal left on the rear face.
The VW lads need the high offset Porsche wheels, as even though their usual offsets are in the 30s/40s, they then use a 15/20mm spacer which doubles up a hub adaptor to alter the PCD (bolt pattern) so the wheels will go on their car and sit correctly. 55mm offset of Porsche wheel plus 20mm adapter on back, results in a 35mm offset.
Anyway apologies if I'm teaching my granny how to suck eggs, but that's a little bit about offsets.
I'd guess your best bet is to eBay them listing all info and you may get someone who wants them as winter wheels or track wheels, etc.
I hope you recoup some of the cost. :thumb:
Incredibly useful info - thank you.
I'll update my adverts accordingly - and yes, I'm now at a point where I'm realising at best I'll recoup some money ðŸ˜
If that is actually a thing, I'd be elated.
I have no idea who how where to achieve that is the challenge - nor do I understand the likely cost.
I'm in Gloucester, if that helps with any potential suggestions ?
With them being replica's, they will most likely not have gone through the testing regime that OEM and quality aftermarket wheels have gone through. With this in mind I would think again about machining the mating face, particularly with the amount of metal that would require removing, as it will seriously compromise the strength of the wheel.
C.
If you machine the hub face (the face highlighted with the tip of the big red arrow) in any meaningful way (to the point highlighted by the tip of the purple arrow, say 10-15mm) you'll also be reducing the depth of the bore where the wheel bolts/studs go through.
The shoulder (highlighted by the tip of the yellow arrow) that the tapered flange on the wheel bolt/nut bears on to secure the wheel to the hub will be massively reduced in depth too, and with it will go it's structural integrity.
Don't do it.
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