Alarm double beep and central locking frustration

Thought I'd see if anyone has any ideas about this... Car: 2002 C2 cab. Driver side latch and exterior microswitch were replaced last year as was the front hood latch. Symptoms: 1. Double beep when I try to lock with the key fob, and locks to do not lock. 2. Central locking switch LED always on. 3. Unlock possible with key fob. Using Durametric, I get the following codes: 47 - Control locking synchronization 60 - Central locking limit position Lock not reached 61 - Central locking limit position Unlock not reached Here's what I've done so far: 1. Assumed it was the passenger side latch causing an issue and replaced it. No change, so put the old one back. 2. Removed driver's seat and removed and inspected alarm control module (exterior and interior). No water incursion found. Circuit board looks OK: no burns or visible defects. 3. Followed the Bentley and Porsche workshop manual troubleshooting for these error codes (Workshop Manual is far more useful). No issues found. 4. Reviewed the schematics and tested continuity to ground and continuity between driver side and alarm module and passenger side and alarm module. No issues found. Put it all back together and initially it seemed fine. Then it started to repeat the double beep. Based on the above, I *think*: * Both latches are good. * Central locking switch is good. * Alarm module is good. * Wiring is good. I see conflicting information about whether the exterior and interior door handle microswitches will cause a double beep or a single beep. Can anyone advise? I'd rather troubleshoot these than sending off the alarm module, DME and keys for diagnosis, which seems to be the next step according to the Workshop Manual.

Took the alarm module apart to check for water damage, shorts, general unhappiness, but it looks good to me. I cleaned the exterior plugs with electrical contract cleaner too. I also checked the fuse and cleaned its contacts too.

I just tested mine and both interior and exterior door handles cause a single beep. I will think on this a while. Sounds like it could be an intermittent problem since you got it to go away briefly. How long did it work properly until you started having problems again? Did you do anything to the car before this started happening?

Quotes source post: 14155282

Thanks. The only other thing that I did was to lock and unlock with a new key fob that had been programmed for me. I've since tried the original key fob and also get the double beep with that, so I think that it was just a coincidence the new key fob gave me a double beep. When my mechanic plugged his PST2 into the car, he was not able to get any communication with the alarm module to read the status of the inputs. I have Durametric and when I run the module test, I get clicking of the relays in the control unit as well as in the door latches and then the double beep. However, I'm not able to perform any of the actuations in the Durametric actuations page. It may just be that the system thinks that it is in an unknown state. I am able to clear the codes, but they either go away and then come back or do not go away.

Do you have a schematic for your car? I have the TT version and I wouldn't think it's any different but I'd be open to look at one for you. Sometimes it's something further back in the system that you wouldn't suspect. Sounds like it could be a bad connection somewhere.

Yes I have the schematic in the Bentley manual. I ran continuity tests between the door latch pins on each side and the appropriate pins on the alarm control module header plugs. This was in addition to following the specific troubleshooting steps in both Bentley and the WSM for the error codes. The only thing I've not done is to verify the functioning of the inner and outer handle door microswitches and continuity between their pins and the alarm control module. That's my next step I think.

That's a good thought to check too. Post back when you have info. If you want me to look at the schematic, PM me your email and I will look at it.

I have the same issue, which has started in the last two weeks. it is intermitted as last sunday back to normal and Monday back to double beeps. But if I try to relock on the key normally the second time it will lock. The interior locking switch is constantly light up, and will double beep if I try to click it with the car running. I am about to change the ignition switch as that seems to be the go to all for electrical faults. Will check back here to see what you have found.

Quotes source post: 14155375

Thanks. I'll scan it in tomorrow.

Quotes source post: 14155460

To my knowledge, my ignition switch has not been changed. I'll be interested to know what you find...

Quotes source post: 14155485

They do cause issues and can be purchased fairly cheaply through Pelican for around $10 using non-oem. I replace them every couple of years for PM.

I don't see how an Ignition Switch problem can cause Central Locking issues when locking up your car. OP, did this problem start after you got that 2nd Key Fob programmed to your car? If yes, I'm wondering if someone played around with the PST2 and changed any settings in your Alarm / Immobilizer System Module.

Quotes source post: 14156877

Thanks ECU Doctors - you are of course the people that I would be sending my alarm module, DME and keys to if I end up going that route... No, the problem existed before I had the new key fob, so my expectation that it was just coincidental that after working OK for a few minutes with the first key fob that it started doing the double beep when I used the second (new) key fob for the first time. It now continues to do the double beep with either key fob.

Looks like you tested the two door latches. What about the frunk and engine lid latches? If my frunk is not latched properly I get the double beep everytime. Try pushing down at the latch area while working the clicker.

cwilt - Here's the schematic. I also followed the troubleshooting steps in the Workshop Manual Section 90 Test Point 45 (Fault code 46, 47), Test Point 55 (Fault code 60) and Test Point 56 (Fault code 61). I found that the WSM has more detailed troubleshooting steps than the Bentley manual, and is a superset of what Bentley suggests testing.

Quotes source post: 14157196

Yes, what ditto says AND I ask you this because it is not 100% clear to me if you've mentioned/tested it: -are both the interior door handles fully returning to their position when after you pull on them? They have a spring that tens to stretch and prevents them to return to their position. (I had a similar problem in my Boxster) -the no communication problem to the alarm system bothers me because it makes no sense. Can you scan all the other modules in the car. Maybe we'll find a hint as to why you can't access the Immo.

Bal, I will print these out and look at when I get a chance. Taking off for the evening but I had a thought glancing over the schematic. This sounds crazy but it has happened in the past on more than one occasion. Flaky interior light bulbs that caused very strange electrical problems. I know it's not much to go on but worth a look while you're tracking this problem down. I will be back in touch when I read up on the circuitry.

Quotes source post: 14157245

cwilt - I'll PM you and exchange email addresses, then can send you a larger version for easier printing. And thanks.

Can you hear the ignition lock when you remove the key? Maybe car thinks key is still in ignition... Steering locks are more than common for 996/986. After replacing lock, if bad, a vehicle handover must be performed to reset car!!! Window slightly decend when door closed and inner handle pulled both sides??

Progress: Ditto's post about the front latch (bonnet/hood/frunk) made me think that this is the only real variable since I open and close it to plug and unplug the battery. So, I messed around with it. What I found is that if the bonnet is opened by pressing the fob, I am able to lock and unlock the car with the fob. I get a single beep but that might be due to the aftermarket radio not having the alarm contact, or perhaps because the car thinks that the bonnet is open. When I close the bonnet and hear it latch, I get the double beep when I use the fob and am unable to lock and unlock the car. So... seems like there's an issue with the bonnet latch, which was replaced a year or so ago. You can see the behavior in this video: You Tube Since my mechanic installed the latch, I'll go back to him since it might be under warranty. I'll keep this thread updated and thanks to everyone for contributing so far!

That's a well made video of your issue! Since your bonnet was replaced, can you check if the connector of the contact is connected inverted. Seems like the Alarm Immobilizer thinks the front truck is opened when it is actually closed.

Thanks ECU Doctors. Yes I will check your suggestion. Only the latch was replaced since I'm told that the solenoids go over time and it wasn't releasing. The issue manifested itself sometime after the latch was released though and not immediately after. I did notice last summer on hot days that the latch would not release, which makes me think that it may just need adjusting and something is shorting out, and perhaps it is an intermittent short which is causing the alarm system to think that something it is amiss. Anyway, lots of speculation at my end until I actually get a chance to look at the part and the connections. Once I have access to the connector from the car, I can try bridging it to simulate open and closed positions and see what the alarm module thinks.

Another update... push down on the bonnet but do not let it latch, locking and unlocking works normally. If I push down further and let it latch, I get the double beep. If the bonnet is latched and I try to pry it up a little, I still get the double beep. Together with the latch not operating when it is hot, all this leads me to believe that the latch may need to be adjusted so that it sits higher. Perhaps the double beep is caused by some kind of short between the microswitch and solenoid. Again, I should be able to see more once I have access to it. But first, I await the delivery of the parts I need to repair my driver seatbelt-related airbag error *sigh*.

Also, I meant to reply to ECU Doctors' comment about the comms problem between Durametric and the alarm system. I should have been more explicit: Durametric sees all the modules including the alarm system and is able to erase alarm system codes. What I cannot do is to perform any of the activations on its Activation screen (door lock, door secure, interior light, etc.) I've not tried this since my last two updates though.

Well one step forward and several back... I took the bonnet/hood latch off to inspect it. I've verified that I get an open circuit when the latch is closed, i.e. the hood would be shut, by pressing the shaft of a screwdriver through the mechanism to simulate the metal U attached to the hood. When I release the latch, i.e. the hood would be open, I get continuity. I tried the keyfob with the latch removed, so the car would think that the hood is shut, and I get the double beep and no locking. If I jumper the plug that connects to the latch, so the car thinks that the hood is open, I get a single beep and it locks fine. With the plug jumpered, the trunk compartment light is on, as I would expect. From all of this, I think that the latch behavior is correct, which now makes me suspect the alarm control module *sigh*. I suppose I could remove the compartment bulb and jumper the plug and get the locking through the remote, or live with no locking through the remote and just use the key in the door to lock and unlock.

From reading your last post I wonder if you could invert the connector so that the behavior is the opposite. It seems like that would solve your problem

Quotes source post: 14158773

You'd mentioned this earlier and I forgot to respond to that point. The connector is keyed, so it is currently connected with the correct orientation. I did not try reversing it because I would need modify the connector to do so, however, referring to the schematic, it is simply a switch so reversing it should have no effect. I've also spent some time reading the WSM about the alarm system and have learned that it is quite a complex beast with various modes of operation. By jumpering the hood switch and removing the compartment light, I may cause unintentional side effects. I think my next step is to see if I can convince my mechanic to let me spend an afternoon with his PST2 and start to look at various signals, which I'm unable to do with the Durametric.

I replaced the solenoid, but there's no change in behavior: no double beep with the hood latch microswitch "closed" (i.e. the hood is open), and a double beep and no central locking with the hood latch microswitch "open" (i.e. the hood is closed). An interesting discovery was that the 6.5.3.5 version of Durametric that I upgraded to last week had a bug that prevented certain codes from being cleared . They released 6.5.3.6 on 5/3/17 that addresses these bugs, so I was able to clear the alarm codes. What persistently comes back is Code 60 - Central locking limit position Lock not reached. I have been through all the troubleshooting steps in the WSM for this code and everything checks out. I do intend to verify the interior and exterior door handle microswitches and see if I can spend some time with my mechanic's PST2 to troubleshoot further and remove the Durametric variable. However, my guess is that I'm dealing with something wrong in the alarm control module. The reason I am leaning towards this conclusion is that previously, I've been able to trigger Activations from Durametric but these no longer seem to work (although perhaps this is another Durametric bug), and also Durametric has consistently reported the radio contact not being present, which it no longer does. If someone has access to the WSM and feels like sending me the troubleshooting steps for Code 60, I would appreciate it. It is possible that they've been updated since the version that I have access to. It is in Group 0 Section 90. Incidentally, while preparing for power on tests, I managed to close the hood with the battery disconnected. Normally, the release cable is behind the tow hook plug on my car, however, when I was working on the hood latch earlier, I must have moved it since it wasn't there! I was able to open the hood by applying power from a jump starting unit to the positive terminal in the fuse holder in the driver's side footwell (LHD), using the door arrester. Fortunately, this works even with the negative terminal of the battery disconnected!

With everything but together and driving around with the top down today, I noticed the locking was working correctly. Both the hood and trunk latches were closed so the only thing open was the top. I pushed the microswitch on the latch for the top and sure enough, the central locking switch came on and the double beep/no central locking manifested itself again when I used the key fob. I popped the trunk latch, pushed the convertible top microswitch and with the trunk latch open, no double beep. With the engine running, the top down, both hood and trunk closed, I got out and tested the doors. I leaned against each door to prevent it from opening and used the exterior and interior handles to "open" the doors - what I was really doing was activating the exterior and interior handle microswitches. I pushed the convertible top microswitch and only then did I get the locking failure. Tried the same thing with the glove box and storage compartment. It seems like the only time the central locking works correctly is when the hood, trunk or convertible top are open. Weird.

That is very strange. Seems like a circuit is reversed or thinks its reversed. Did you get a chance to hook up a PST2? I think that might be the next thing since this is so weird.

Quotes source post: 14165388

Not yet. Hope to do so next week.

Looked at the schematic again. Do your frunk, engine compartment and glove box lights work? They are tied into the same circuit and I was thinking there could be an issue with the wire in the engine compartment since it moves back and forth when you open and close it. Just another thought.

Quotes source post: 14165419

Frunk and glove box lights work properly. I'll check the engine compartment.

A question related to BAL's ssue, as he pointed it out in his post and vid.....I have the single beep issue which I believe is related to the aftermarket radio the PO installed. I would like the interior detection system to work on mine (as I have a convertible)...is there a solution to trick the radio alarm circuit?

Mine has the double beep but it comes and goes. I will keep subscribe to this and if I ever find a solution, I will post as well. I am tempted to try ignition switch since it is the original.

Sounds like bad micro-switches inside the door latches. Why you ruled out the driver's side door latch already?

Passenger side door was where the window don't drop if open from outside. I bought the microswitch for that one but the center lock light went away before I try to fix it. everything works at that point. fast forward I got rear ended and the car was in the shop for almost 2 weeks. got the car back and admired it in the garage and I decided to put the battery tender on. Next morning the center lock light came back on and passenger door window acting up again (won't drop from exterior latch, move down but keep wanting to get back up if pull from interior latch). Drove to work and the center lock light in the interior went off and all working again. I then remembered the light came on after I used battery tender when I first brought it home from PO as well. This past Saturday the light came on and went off but all doors and windows operated just fine... I will find a weekend and put the window regulator but figure I can do the switch too soon. In the meantime I am following this thread.

Just an update to what resolved this issue for me. It was the micro switch for the drivers window and the door lock. Ignition switch did nothing, but now all my other issues are fixed. rear demister, windows dropping correctly, and no more double beep or interior lights staying on.

Awesome news! I am at the point to confirm mine is the pass door micro switch now. light came on the other night and I took some lithium lube spray into the lock hit the remote a couple of times and it went away. Been working for a week now but its probably time to take it apart and do a proper cleaning or replace

Which microswitches were replaced? There is one for the outside handle, one for the inside handle and a bunch inside the lock mechanism.

Quotes source post: 14169165

In my case, I tested the switches in the exterior and interior handles. The driver lock mechanism was replaced last year. The passenger mechanism was replaced but the problem remained, so the old part is back in.

Quotes source post: 14194831

But the driver lock could fail again though.

Quotes source post: 14194859

It could although all of the troubleshooting steps in the workshop manual check out.

I am very interested in the resolution. I have similar issues with my recently purchased 1999 C2. I have only been able to lock the car once or twice with the fob. Typically it locks and immediately unlocks with a double beep, so I no longer try to lock it. When I open the drivers door to get out, it double beeps about 80% of the time. Sometimes it will double beep at night when it is parked and there is no one around it. When I drive the car, it will often double beep in a sweeping left or right hand curve over rough roads. Today it double beeped four different times in a 15 mile trip. One thing I did notice is that the rear deck lid "open" idiot light will stay on for about 30 seconds after I start the car. This issue is the only thing that annoys me about the car. I am going to purchase a Durametric this weekend, but based on what you wrote, I am not sure it will help me diagnose the source.

Bal, the info on the receipt is as follows, checked and tested wiring and plug connections, found drivers door actuator faulting internally. Causing vehicle not to operate window and lock correctly with double horn. Carried out replacement of lock actuator. Part number PO8N2837016B Door lock ex EMD This solved my issue although I guess other locks, etc may cause the same faults.

Quotes source post: 14195380

Please keep this thread posted.

Quotes source post: 14195477

Thanks for posting what was replaced. That is the door latch mechanism for a driver's side right hand drive car.

I am currently having similar issues as bal on a 2002 C4 Tip. The Durametric is showing me: 47 Control locking synchronization Status: present Occurance Counter: 1 61 Central locking limit position Unlock not reached Status: present Counter: 2 This is after clearing the codes and recently (about 3 weeks ago) replacing the driver side lock mechanism 8N1837015C. I did this based on my indy shop letting me know what was faulting. After initially replacing the lock and clearing the codes everything seemed fine. Today I noticed the double beeping again when unlocking the car with the remote. However, something different for me than before replacing the lock is the light switch on the dash for the central locking mechanism does not stay lit and the car locks and unlocks fine. As with bal I am unable to use the Actuations function within Durametric to do anything with the alarm. I can't activate the interior lights or any of the other functions. However, querying the module and clearing faults works fine. I may try some of the other steps bal did this weekend to further troubleshoot as well.

So, I'm having the same issue with my '03 Carrera. Is there any way to debug this without having a Durametric? When I lock the doors with the remote, there are no beeps & the doors lock properly. When I unlock the doors, I get the double beep & the doors unlock properly. There are no errors displayed on the dash, but the red light on the "lock" button stays lit. If I push the button, the car will try and lock (or unlock?) and fail, the car will beep twice, and the interior lights will go on for a moment.

Quotes source post: 14251287

The only way to really debug is to start changing stuff. Most common issue is /are the locks. I'm waiting for my passenger side now (replaced driver originally) and expect that will resolve my issue. If it doesn't then I'm not quite sure what my problem is. I do know in my scenario the frequency that it happens now is much less after the driver side lock was replaced. This led me to believe both were failing but the passenger side was not as far along. Once I replace it I will be able to confirm if that was indeed the case or it's something else.

Quotes source post: 14251330

Thanks. The curious thing is that everything seems to work properly, in that the doors unlock when they're supposed to & lock when they're supposed to. So the fault is, as far as I can tell, a false positive. The Renntech article over here has a bunch of good information, but randomly replacing a microswitch when there are 7 possibilities doesn't feel like a good approach! Hence my need to get a better idea on what's going on. If a Durametric will show me the open/closed status of each switch, then I guess I'll have to borrow (or buy) one.

Quotes source posts: 14251287, 14251342

It won't tell you the open/closed status of each switch, unfortunately. What I think is happening is the microswitch that tells the car the door is unlocked is on the way out (even though the door is unlocked). Which is why sometimes the lock light shows up red.. my car does that too..in fact it'll sometimes turn off on its own too if I'm driving..and as in your case the locks actually work fine for locking and unlocking..

Quotes source post: 14195534

I will. I just got my 996 back on the road this weekend after replacing the oil filter housing. My car still double beeps sometimes when I drive, although it only did it once in the 80 miles I have driven over the past few days. One other piece of data is that the frunk/engine lid dash light sometimes stays on for about 10 or 20 seconds after I start the car, so I may have an issue with one of those micro switches. I was looking at buying the Durametric Pro where one of the Rennlisters was try to put together a group buy in the classifieds section. It looks like that won't work out, so I will probably buy the enthusiast version soon. I found out this week I am being transferred to Atlanta on a two year assignment that begins in a few weeks, so I have been focusing on that. The assignment is a good thing and I look forward to it.

Quotes source post: 14251377

If you're not in a rush you can ping durametric for a refurb kit. I did that and one popped up after only waiting 3-4 weeks. It'll save you about $80. They don't post it online though and don't put you on a list. I emailed them every 7-10 days checking for one since I wasn't in a rush.

Have you checked all the fuses? I would look at the bentley and check all the fuses that have the alarm module or anything related to the alarm system. here is a link to my experience: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...th-keyfob.html Good luck!

numbah9, That's exactly what mine was doing. Another symptom on mine is that the window would not stay down when I try to open the door, it keep going up and down. For me its the micro switch on the passenger door lock stuck. I was able to with the door open and push the lock into lock position and then use my keyfob to unlock and I can see there is resistance. The door still open and close fine. I took some WD40 sprayed on the lock and use keyfob to lock/unlock until it seems smooth without the resistance and the light went away and the double beep went away. The window fixed as well, I think the door handle send signal to open the door but the lock microswitch was sending signal that it is locked and try to push the window back up. It has been good (knock on wood) for a month now. I think over time the dirt or grease goes into there and the micro switch becomes sticky and even with the lock in the open position, the microswitch is stock in lock. I have meant to open up the panel and do a good cleaning and lubricate everything, just haven't had a time to do it. Now if the microswitch is broken then this is not going to help. Roger

I'm having a similar issue getting double beeps and the doors locking then immediately unlocking with the fob. Tried the drink latch and it's not that. May be a microswitch on the driver's side. Can anyone tell me how many micro switches are in the driver side door and where are they located?

Can someone please explain what should happen? When I lock I get two flashes and doors are locked. When I click again one flash of the lights and they are unlocked. Thanks everyone this is a great thread.

I haven’t updated the thread because I have no update and have been driving the car. It is very annoying though. I feel that I’m throwing parts at it since the Durametric does not give me enough info. I’ve replaced the baggage compartment latch solenoid. I found that if my top was open, the central locking light would go on and off if I pressed the latch closure contact above the mirror. But this didn’t last long. Then it seemed that if the engine compartment was open, locking would behave normally. So it is all rather weird and hard to troubleshoot given all the variables and the lack of signal data in Durametric. Bash Hat - there is a micro switch for the outside handle, another for the inside handle and several in the latch mechanism. This is a good write up: https://www.renntech.org/forums/tuto...microswitches/

I haven't gotten the Durametric yet, and I am disappointed it will not give me detailed information. I guess I will have to troubleshoot the old fashioned way. I did disconnecting the horn in front of the firewall so I don't get the double beep. I don't want somebody to road rage on me if they think I am beeping at them. I also installed a switch on the negative terminal of the battery that I can open in case I park it for a few days. I am going to start by looking into the frunk/rear deck lid idiot light that stays on for about 20 seconds after I start the car.

^ Please keep updating.

I have not replaced the second latch yet since the re-occurrence of the issue is very infrequent right now. I have the part on standby though for when it gets annoying. At the time I replaced the driver latch it was happening daily and I could almost reproduce it reliably locking/unlocking the car with remote 5-10 times in a row.

Hi and thanks for the great thread! I have a 2004 C4S cab and it had the problem of the driver's side window not dropping. After removing the cover I found that the outside handle microswitch had been disconnected and the window lowered so it was permanently in the same position. The key fob worked without problems but the wind noise was very annoying. Connected the microswitch cable and it did not help. Suspected the door lock mechanism so I purchased a new one from Pelican Parts and installed it. Al window issues were resolved but now.... I have the double beep, key fob twice to lock, permanently on rocker switch problem described here. Is there some sort of reset required after the new door lock mechanism is installed? I don't have a scanning tool. I appreciate any insight you may have.

Quotes source post: 14494274

2 possibilities I can think of: 1) other door lock has an issue 2) some issue with alarm module You can either experiment or get the car scanned to validate. Others with more experience may have better feedback as well.

Quotes source post: 14494274

Codes have probably been thrown that you would only see with a diagnostics tool like Durametric. However, I do not know if the stored codes are enough to cause a double beep or whether there has to be a detected error in the system when the ignition is turned on and it self-tests.

Quotes source post: 14494358

Unfortunately in my case, the Porsche test tools do not seem to want to communicate with the alarm module properly. Kind of points to a fault in the unit.

Hey, thanks for the insight! Turns out that the locking mechanism that Pelican sent was the U.S. spec and my car is ROW...took it into the dealer and forked over $800 but it works like a charm now. I did not know that the default format for parts from Pelican was U.S. model only. I guess it makes sense but it would be better to at least ask iif its US or ROW and offer the alternative. Cheers!

Quotes source post: 14630521

Great that you got it fixed - if there's ever any question about parts, I always include my VIN. Surprised Pelican didn't ask for it.

My problems are very similar but more inconsistent and harder to pin down. I began several months ago with a double-beep either on unlock with remote or by pulling inside door latch. No flashing turn signal lights. Remote still locked and unlocked the doors and remote frunk button worked, it just gave the alarm fault double beep. About 7 weeks ago I replaced and re-trained the sunroof motor, and all of the central locking problems disappeared - until last night when they all came back just as before. After reading through this thread, I tried several non-invasive exploratory procedures (no, I'm not a surgeon), and what worked was to turn the ignition switch to off and open the driver's door before removing the key from the switch. All functions are now normal, but I have no idea how long that will last. Cwilt mentioned the switch as a possible culprit, and I wonder if it has anything to do with my situation. Remember, symptoms are pretty fluid and variable and not always repeatable, so I'm guessing that something as loosely constructed (relatively speaking) as an ignition switch could provide enough play to cause erratic behavior. Please excuse my lack of ability to articulate my issues very well - they're such a moving target I don't know how to describe them. Anyhow, you guys are doing a great job and I appreciate all you've offered so far. I just thought I'd throw in my two-cents' worth.

I have a similar issues with a chattering from the window motor when the passenger door is closed the first time. This is on a 2001 996TT new purchase a few days ago.The battery was replaced when the car was delivered so did not clear any of these codes yet. All issues described on the passager door. The second issue is the interior light is not working at all with this door open. I took the door panel off to fix what i though was a micro switch problem, after taking the panel off the window started lowering again! Tested each micro switch over 30 times with a meter and they were solid. As most of you have already guessed, everything worked for a few minutes after I put the panel back on and not it’s not lowering again. Any thoughts??? Micro switches are good on the (2) handles.My guess is it the latch? guessing so as the interior light not working at all from this door.

Question: My fuel filler cover lock is inoperable. Will that cause a double beep when locking the car with the fob?

Quotes source post: 14839750

Yes. Any open zone detected by the alarm/immobilizer will cause a double beep.

I replaced the drivers latch and solved the chatter and window dip problem, cleared all the codes and still have codes 47 and 61. is it the drivers side too? anyone know how they sync? and is there away to test for the unlock limit?

@bbboomer67 I know this is 4 years old....lol.....Im fighting a double beep and I have a code for the gas door lock motor....Im assuming you replaced it -- did it fix the double beep? Do you remember: when your gas door lock motor was inop did it cause the lock button on the dash to NOT work? thanks

Quotes source post: 18083376

I don't remember! Sorry.

@bbboomer67 no worries. Im just trying to determine if I have one or two issues. I guess we will find out.

Reviving this thread to share my fix. I had this same problem for a long time on my '03 996TT. Double horn beeping, alarm would sometimes go off, windows wouldn't drop properly, a few codes (e.g., 61) on the Foxwell, and general gremlins. I decided to just replaced both door actuators and all problems solved. Below are the part numbers: 8N1837016C- passenger 8N1837015C- driver

Jumping in on this thread... first time posting. 2000 C2 Cabriolet Just replaced the PCM1 to the PCCM+. Alarm and door locks, etc. were all working prior to garaging the car for a few weeks while I ordered parts and did the install. Battery went flat while the car was sitting so I charged it up overnight. I took the car out last night a realized that I could not lock it and was hearing the double beep upon using the key fob trying to lock the car. Other symptoms which just started - Lock button on the center dash area does not appear to be working Power windows are all not working Convertible top seems to work properly - windows go up and down properly Tried various combinations of doors open, closed, frunk open/closed, engine compartment open/closed (with the engine compartment open I get 1 beep but no locking) Frunk light appears to not be working Plugged in Durametric and have the following errors - fault code 34, 60, 58 I'll be pulling/checking fuses in the AM but wanted to request feedback or other troubleshooting ideas. Thanks

Quotes source post: 18288257

Have you replaced the ignition switch? A faulty one can cause a bunch of electrical issues.

@Chris87 , thoughts on validating the ignition switch prior to throwing parts at it?

Quotes source post: 18288616

No need... went through the fuses... Row C fuse 3 was blown. I got lucky.

Quotes source post: 18286566

This is interesting. Just to clairify: your 996TT should have the M535 anti-theft correct? These part numbers are listed for Boxters or cars WITHOUT the alarm system. I wonder if somehow they just bypassed the circuit. It probably made your window drop work but I would think it would still throw an error because the anti-theft circuit isn't complete. Anyone??

Quotes source post: 19638093

Not sure about your questions, but no codes and everything works fine after putting those parts in my 2003 996TT.

Well, that's good. Where did you get your part # reference from? (Like who told you those were the correct lock actuators?) Since you had success with these I'm extremely tempted but everything I see says no. Weird.

Quotes source post: 19638451

Per my old notes from this project: This thread says URO part number for right is 8N1837016C. makes sense because left is 8N1837015C https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...mechanism.html