Is a stock 996.1 okay for autocross?

I have a stock/mint 996.1 (coupe/6sp/2wd) that I'd like to have my son do a few autocrosses in. He'll get his own car shortly, but I'd like for him to have the autocross experience first. He has a ton of experience in sim (iRacing) and karting, and is very, very competitive, but he hasn't done any competitive driving in a car. I don't want his sim/karting experience to result in "overconfidence" on a track day ending poorly at high speeds , so I'm thinking autocross is a good first step. My question is, is a stock 996.1 okay to use for autocross? I know for full track days, a deeper oil pan and probably some other changes are needed to prevent oil starvation in high-speed corners, but it it safe to assume that these are not issues for the far lower speeds in autocross?

Absolutely....only thing to.pay attention to is oil level and make sure the aos is working. Better yet get a uaos and beat on it.

Exactly what he said ^^^^^ i drive mine to redline after it’s warmed up weekly great car light and tossable with good brakes

You shouldn't have any trouble with your stock car. I have done both autox and track days with my stock 996.2. That being said, as De Jeeper mentioned in his response, I'm not going back to track my car again until I get the UAOS, which is expected to arrive next week. As you plan for your autocross, you should get your number assigned in advance and have a magnetic sticker made. That way you won't look like a newbie with your number in blue painters' tape on the side. I went the full Caddy Shack and made my sticker 18x24 with the number, an American flag and my stripper name on it.

As many of the guys said, make sure your AOS is in good shape (manometer test) and/or better yet, get the UAOS track version if you don't already have it. Hope he enjoys it. Good way to get started.

Thanks everyone, that's great to know. Looking into testing the AOS now -- I guess I have to get another oil cap to drill a hole in? The car uses absolutely zero oil between changes, but I've never checked the AOS. Regarding setup for the autocross, am I correct in assuming PSM should be turned off? Is there anything that can/should be turned off. I actually did an autocross with it in 2015 at the Lime Rock autocross course (mini-track within the main Lime Rock track). I won a ticket for the Lime Rock autocross in a concours event, so I decided to do it. Of course, I didn't know about 996 track concerns back then. I forget to turn off PSM for the autocross, which I think limited power out of corners pretty considerably. I finished mid-pack. I'm certain my son will be very competitive once he gets the hang of it. Saw this testing video using an inexpensive manometer from Amazon and a separate oil cap to be drilled: You Tube

Is he going thru the autocross skills training? Typically run this time of year for beginners in many of the PCA regions.

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He is now! NNJR PCA car control clinic on May 5th at Met Life. Thanks for the suggestion.

Yes, turn the "Porsche Save Me" off. Even though it won't kill all the nannies it will only kick-in when "stupid" has been way exceeded. Remember you have to turn it off every time you restart the car...ask me how I know...🙄 Just be prepared for the rear end to get a little loose when on power coming out. PSM usually mutes that. Chalk your tires to check for roll-over and adjust pressures accordingly. Most of all have FUN.

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Does that mean PSM can't be turned off at all? Not that my car has it though.

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The PSM plug must be pulled in order to fully disable. Unlike what the poster you quote relays, it does not take going way past stupid for the PSM to intervene when you have turned off with the button, During normal track driving I would still see it coming on multiple times a lap until the plug at the PSM pump was pulled.

Autocross Track ...different

I'm in the exact same boat. My 18 year old is ready to take off. Tons of Sim experience and the occasional snow drifting experience in Md. Limited track exposure but that's about to change. Our training grounds is going to be skid pad training / intro to autocross. I have many options for him. 996.1 built, 996.2 built, gt4 RS, 1999 Boxster, fully track prepped m2 CS manual, 944 spec race car. All those are manual except for the 4rs which really isn't a good option. I don't want to put him in the situation where he can money shift so....for skid pads the 996.2 will be fine and for his intro to autocross he will likely be in 2nd gear. Once he gets more into it I'll be getting a PDK Cayman base. This goes for my daughter as well. She turns 16 in 2 days. She will be wanting to do some motorsport fun.

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This is awesome! I don�t know who�s luckier, the kids for being able to participate in such activities, or YOU for being able to share your love of Motorsport with them. I say both! I hope to be able to share such great experiences with my son when he�s old enough. God bless

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^ We need a LOVE button not a like button. I'm the lucky one to be able to spend time with my kids and expose them to all of my passions and other things. Whatever grabs their attention who knows what that will be. At the same time I've made it clear they need to make it on their own and I don't want either one of them taking over my company, they will have to do their own thing.

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True! With the gear ratio of a 996 after the start it is usually pop it into 2nd and drive. I've heard from the seasoned AutoX professionals "not to downshift in a super tight corners unless that will gain you 3 seconds which is what you lose when down then up shifting." Besides the 996 has a lot of low end grunt in my experience...at least mine does.

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Pics or it didn't happen...

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It mostly happened.

100% your car is fine for AX, assuming normal maintenance and adequate tires and brakes.

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Start them in the 44 so they learn to go fast slow.

I'm trying to answer this question myself, i've been bringing my 996.1 to events, and trying to figure out how to set it up. If your son is indeed very very competitive, I think it's worth taking a moment to understand the classing before making any changes to the car. I only started looking into classing this year, so someone correct me if i'm wrong, but I believe I've handicapped myself. In Bstreet, the 996 looks fairly competitive. See https://rennlist.com/forums/autocros...-bs-996-a.html However, I've put lowering springs and spacers on to fix the horrendous factory fitment. Just doing this bumps the car to Street touring, SST, where it has to face off against the 718 and 981 chassis, among other cars it really can't compete against. See https://rennlist.com/forums/autocros...ispreloading=1 At the moment I'd rather the car look better than be more competitive, since I'm not a good enough driver yet anyways. The PCA regional autocross events near me also have a better class for 996's I can focus on. Just something to be aware of

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Thanks, good info. My 996 is stock except for 15mm wheel spacers. Hope that doesn�t bump it up. It has Michelin Pilot All Season tires, all-season doesn�t stick as well as summer tires, but the first couple autocrosses are just for him to get some experience. He should be getting his own car soon. Thinking maybe a used Alfa Giulia.

I think they allow spacers up to a certain size, you might need to get thinner ones. You can read the rules here: https://www.scca-classifier.com/ . I also did my first few autox on michelin all seasons before getting ps4s, the car is going to push really hard but yeah it doesn't really matter the first few times.

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Not only is it ok, its a blast to autocross, the best car I've ever used in autocross....

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If you are running street tires on a stock car, I wouldn't worry about starvation when autocrossing your 996.

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Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts Charles

A couple of "autocross 101" questions: 1) Is there a rev limiter that will kick in on the 996.1? This will be my son's first real automotive competitive experience (coming from a strong sim and karting background). He does know not to over-rev the engine, but in the first-time excitement of it all, I'd like to know if there is a rev limiter that kicks in. (I don't really drive the car to the limits, so I've never encountered a rev limiter if it exists). 2) What tire pressure is ideal for autocross? This is with Michelin Pilot Sport all-season tires. From what I could gather from track posts, 35ish PSI seems to be favored at hot temps, so they seem to start around 34 cold. I'm guessing I would start with 35PSI since there isn't much time for tires to get hot during the autocross.

Peter, there is a rev limiter as you accelerate. But if he downshifts into a lower gear at higher rpms, it can go over max revs. He probably won't have to worry about it because he won't be rowing the gearbox much in autocross. Bigger issue on a racetrack when downshifting from 4th to 3rd and accidentally hitting 1st or 5th to 4th and accidentally hitting 2nd. Of i remember correctly you have him signed up for an autocross school. If so, they him most likely have him go thru skid pad exercises, acceleration and then hard braking to stop as close as he can to an orange line, slalom exercises around cones and then put it all together with an autocross course in 2nd gear. It may make sense to take him out to a parking lot and have him go from 1st to 2nd to 3rd under glhard acceleration and back down to 2nd again a few times to get used to the sounds and feelings. Also good to practice accelerating thru the gears and then hard braking and coming to a stop without stalling the car. When and how to use the clutch when decelerating quickly coming to a stop, etc. Also good to have him practice taking the car thru a slalom in 2nd gear to understand its characteristics and then a turn to the right or left as if you are circling around a course. Regarding tire pressures, it depends on air temps and how hot he will get them. Not to mention the tires you use. On the racetrack pressures can rise 8 lbs from cold. So I'll start my Bridgestone RE71RS at 24F and 25R when cold to get to 32F 33R. But air temps play a big part of if I start lower or higher. So does the number of warm up laps. If its a very hot day, i may start at 23F and 24R or lower and put an extra warm up lap in to get them to my target. The more you do it, the more you can feel how the difference in tire pressure influences grip and characteristics. On the autocross track i doubt you will have anymore than 3-4 lbs at most as a novice. But i may be wrong. Key is your target pressure for hot tires. I found with my Michelin AS4s that they handle the best on the street at between 33-34F and 35-36R when warm. You can always start there and measure them after every run and see how much they heat up and adjust. But it's an all season tire that I have never tracked or autocrossed, so it's tough to give you a ballpark number for best grip. Get your self a digital tire gauge and check after every run. Good luck to your son.

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Thanks for the advice! He's a left-foot braker from sim, so adjusting to right foot braking is a challenge for him. We've done one session so far in the 996 (first time driving non-sim manual) in a parking lot, and it took him a while to get the feel for starting off with the clutch. After that, he did a couple of spirited runs -- he felt very comfortable doing that, but starting and stopping on manual is not natural yet. Fortunately the sim rig has a clutch and full shifter, so after our 996 session, he has been doing some laps in and older generation Mazda MX-5 (one of the few cars on iRacing that supports manual transmission). He's using the tight legacy Charlotte infield track (as the closest thing to an autocross scenario on iRacing) to try get the foot coordination down. I think the sim also blows the engine if you downshift to the wrong gear, so that is in his brain. It will be interesting to see how he does in the next 996 session after having focused on manual on sim.

Start with target (hot) pressure even when tyre is cold as it is 1. Easier to bleed air from the tyre than putting it in. 2. Easier on the tyres 3. Safer than starting with low pressure when cold. Knowing this is important. Sticking to this method is then a matter of personal choice.

Thanks for all the advice. He did the PCA car control clinic yesterday and it was excellent. For those of you who are not members of PCA -- or PCA members not participating in events -- I would encourage you to check out the club events. At least in the NNJR region, the events are always excellent, well-run, and very reasonably priced. The people are great too. We look forward to doing PCA autocross events next. All of the advice in this thread was helpful. I intentionally had only a little more than a quarter tank of fuel, wanting to limit weight and thinking there wouldn't be that much driving time, but he was running low with the fuel light on at the end (although I guess "empty" on the 996 is at the bottom of the red rather than the top). Going from real-world to iRacing is pretty hard because sim only gives you feedback through the wheel and pedals, but going from sim to real-world is very easy because you get additional feedback you never had before. He was instantly very comfortable pushing the car to the limits and was very fast through the slalom. Looking forward to seeing him autocrossing next.

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Late to the party here, but class will not mater at all. He's there to learn, not accrue points for the end of the season. His focus will be on becoming a better driver (and fun), so either 996 would be a great start in stock form. He'll have a blast if he hasn't already!

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He had the time of his life at the car control clinic. He's pretty dead serious about competing though, after years of competing in iRacing and karting. I was concerned about him having too much confidence once he was in the car, but he drove the car to limit without exceeding it the whole time. He did smoke the clutch on a launch once, but there were probably 30+ launches in the clinic. We'll find out how he does soon, the next PCA autocross in our local chapter isn't until June, so he is registered for an MSNE autocross this Sunday. There is an SCCA autocross this Saturday that he'd prefer to do, but he has an important iRacing race that day, so he can't do that one.

The 996.1 was in fact so good on the skid pad and autocross, I parked my M2 CS and used it as well. What a car. My boy had a great time. I'm a very good driver, (if I do say so myself) I can drift the entire way around any track / autocross, 135 mph in the uphill esses in a car with no aero, 1 second behind the pros at VIR, etc...my boy's his time was within 1/2 a second of mine on his first day ever doing this. What a car, what a great experience with my boy. My car is about 2800 lbs with all the right mods. I asked him if he wanted to do it again, he said if it doesn't lead to F4 then no, lol. He has high expectations. Next time we will get him out on the track. If he can be within 1 second of me, I'm signing him up for F4. Might need to sell a few cars to finance that venture

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Good to hear. What was your son's background prior to getting on track? Sim? Karting? Surprised he isn't anxious to head back out (F4 excepted ). Mine can't wait. He'd race lawn mowers given the opportunity Anything where the car (or mower) is faster than the track, and he's in (that isn't always the case at some indoor karting places).

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Just lots of SIM time. My boy is more chill and would rather hang out with his friends at the track then try to win autocross trophies.

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Very cool. It definitely proves that sim helps real world driving. Much easier to go from sim to real world than real world to sim though.

Stupid Autocross 101 Question : Do we need to worry about brake fluid boiling in an autocross? I'd guess there isn't really enough time on track to get the brake fluid that hot, but I don't really know. I'm going to have my son change the brake fluid anyway. It's due and I want him to get experience wrenching the car for autocross prep. From this thread ( https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ake-fluid.html ), I'd get Motul 600 is probably a good choice for this car that is street almost all the time, with an occasional autocross. Or Castrol SRF, which is better, but probably overkill for our purposes. Charts below cut and pasted from @pfbz 's post in the thread mentioned above

Not needed fir autox but still good to do. Becareful with these fluids because if they r hydrophilic so they absorb water and should have a full flush done evey year. Either the motul or the srf would be good for track use so its more then enough for autox.

There is no question whether (glycol-based) brake fluids are hygroscopic, they are. The race brake fluids are even more hygroscopic than the normal (good) ones and drop from their dry boiling point quickly as a result of that (only to reach the dry boiling point of normal brake fluid after 1 year, hence the interval). For autocross I'd stick to a good quality standard brake fluid and replace every two years. You'll never get so much heat into your brake system autocrossing that temperature of brake fluid will ever be a concern within that 2 year change interval.

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I take it from this that Motul RBF 600, which is labeled as a racing fluid, isn't the best choice. What is generally considered the best standard brake fluid?

I like ATE200 in anything that is not used for lapping events. Change it every 2 years.

I use Endless 650. Mostly because srf was unavailable during covid and now that i trust it i wont switch. The endless has the best compressability numbers so the pedal feel is very consistant, but is more $. Overall i feel the best choice based in cost amd quality is castrol srf.

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+1 ATE 200 is also what comes in the "Porsche Can" and is very good for street or AutoX when changed every 2 years ... If you are doing Hot Laps on a closed circuit Track, pay the $ for the "good stuff" ..and change it often, you don't want to be doing 100+ mph then find out your brake fluid has air bubbles in it...

Thanks very much for the feedback. I've gone down the rabbit hole of looking through just about every brake fluid thread on RL. This car definitely will never be tracked -- my son will use it for autocross, but he'll be buying his own car to track (probably not too long from now). So I'm not interested in the racing fluids (and they do seem to age worse than standard brake fluid). When I look on Pelican what is recommended for 2000 996 -- it points to Porsche OEM fluid that is labeled "low viscosity". I saw some threads saying that low viscosity (DOT 4 Class 6) fluid is important in new models -- talking generally about those with ABS, and specifically about 991 and 992 having pedal squeak issue when using non-LV fluid. It's not really clear whether low viscosity applies back to the 996.1, but Pelican's suggested fluid suggests that LV is appropriate. From this, it would seem to be that the ATE SL.6 (which is the low viscosity version) would be a better match than the ATE Type 200. That said, Pelican also suggests ATE Type 200, ATE Dot 4, and also Pentosin DOT 4 -- all of which are not low viscosity. I realize that probably any of the above fluids will work fine, but I wonder if anyone has any thoughts on using low viscosity versus non-LV (e.g. ATE 200 vs ATE SL.6, or Pentosin vs Pentosin LV). As far as the factory brake fluid brand goes, one post on RL stated that the Porsche fluid used to be ATE when Porsche OEM came in square cans (similar to ATE) and now Porsche OEM is made by Pentosin (which is now similar to Pentosin cans) -- his observation seems to make sense. If this is the case, the Pentosin DOT 4 LV seems like would be a better match than regular Pentosin Dot 4. To thicken the plot even further from more RL reading, apparently the Bosch E16 is a next generation fluid with a 3 year lifespan that is also low viscosity that is compatible with DOT 3 and 4 ( https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post18612485 ). It seems like an interesting option. Amazon Amazon Cut & Paste of an Amazon Review: So for anyone not knowing, the very best passenger vehicle fluid being manufactured right now is ISO4925 Class 7, which is what this is. I'm an engineer and researched this for an hour; I could only find three manufacturers making class 7 fluids, and two are so obscure I couldn't find a supplier. So be glad this is on Amazon and buy it up. Even though it says DOT 3, 4, 5.1, all of these are the same fluids, with the higher numbers having better properties which I won't get into here, and so the higher numbers are backwards compatible. The class 6 and class 7 are future DOT ratings, which the DOT hasn't published yet, so they don't actually say 'DOT 6' 'DOT 7'. But this fluid is technically the future DOT 7. You can and should use this fluid in all your vehicles unless they use a DOT 5.0, which is a different not-compatible silicone based fluid for racecars. . I welcome thoughts on any of the above (yes, I am trying to drag you into the rabbit hole with me ) .

ATE 200 is reasonably priced and as the guys said works well for street and AutoX. No harm in flushing the fluid more often if you are worried about its qualities after a few AutoX events.

Sounds like you have done the research and are on top of things....No, I'm not going down the rabbit hole...lol .. I retired when Porsche was still using the "Rectangle Metal Can".... ( ATE 200) .. I will say that I like the brake fluid being a Metal Can instead of a Plastic Bottle,. Science has shown that the plastic bottles, even the new coated ones , will leach moisture into the brake fluid over time and no Telling how long some sit on the shelves..( check the date code ) ....

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+1 for ATE 200 on the street. It works very well with OEM/street pads. It�s inexpensive enough to perform full flushes without financial pain.

Thanks for the feedback re ATE 200. There's an old business saying that "nobody every got fired for hiring IBM". I'll extend that logic to brake fluid and go with ATE 200 fluid for the 996. Although I'll use ATE 200 for the 996, I remain very intrigued by the Bosch ESI6 fluid. Every review is very positive and it does seem to be a superior "next gen" fluid that is compatible with Dot 3 and 4. I'll probably use it on the Macan when that is due for a fluid change. I see that ATE Type 200 has better dry/wet temps 536 F / 388 F versus 520 F / 360 F for Bosch ESI6. Viscosity for ATE 200 is 1400 at -40 F, versus 685 for ESI6 -- but I don't know if low viscosity is a benefit for the 996 (it does seem to be recommended for 991/992). I saw a post that Bosch ESI6 fluid is only $10.09 a quart at Rock Auto (versus $24.46 on Amazon) in a discussion thread on the "Bob is the oil guy" forum. I've never used Rock Auto before, but sure enough, they have Bosch ESI6 for $10.09 for a quart ( https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=11389&jsn=898 ) and also Pentosin Super Dot 4 for $11.26 a liter ( https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...64363&pt=11389 ) versus $19 most other places (and $34 on Amazon! ). I'm not sure how Rock Auto can do these prices -- less than half for Bosch. Rock Auto doesn't carry ATE 200, but it's only $19 a liter (which is a bargain for "IBM" ). .

I couldn't help but be curious what the viscosity specs were on the rectangular Porsche OEM Fluid (which is more likely what was used in the 996 era versus the current Pentosin-based OEM). Dug up the photo of the old OEM can below that says that Boiling point is 356 F (only wet shown), no mention of viscosity. According to ATE specs ( https://www.ate-na.com/products/brake-fluids/ ), only ATE 5.1 has a boiling point of 356 F -- so maybe that's what Porsche used rather than type 200 (or the identical boiling point is a coincidence). The ATE 5.1 has a viscosity of 750 -- which is much lower than 1400 for Type 200, but not as low as LV SL.6 (which is 700). I'm still going with ATE 200 (which also has higher boiling points than ATE 5.1), but it kind of looks like Porsche wanted lower viscosity even with the old oil (presumably only affects use in very cold temps). https://cdn.rosepassion.com/00004321...&format=jpg-95

Peter, this is a good discussion. Many of us haven't drilled down to the extent you are drilling. Hope it keeps going.

More info if you want it. I used to use the discontinued ATE Super Blue now using PFC 665.

From the ATE specs sheet....ATE 200 has the highest DRY and Wet boiling points of any of the ATE brake fluids.... The thinner brake fluids have a lower boiling point and are recommended for Extreme Cold Weather or for more advanced modern braking systems...

Thanks again for all the feedback. He did his first autocross on Sunday with the BMW club. He was very fast through the "racetracky" portions (due to sim experience), but was not as fast on the cone slalom section. We figured out after it was over that he was arching too much into the first cone from the prior corner, and threw off the rest, causing him to have to steer too much around the remainder of the cones. He is going to do a PCA autocross next week -- is there any iPhone app that can track his path/timing on each run?

RaceChrono comes to mind, as does Harry's Laptimer.

Great thread. Good info. I like reading about getting the kids involved at an early age.

Thanks for all the feedback. It has been helpful and my son has been having a great time. I have another question. Currently we are running Michelin Pilot Sport All-Season 4 tires, which are pretty good for all-season but I think pretty far off of summer tires or more race-oriented tires. I have a set separate set of snow tires/wheels that I never use because we don't drive the 996 once salt goes down in Winter. I am of course now thinking about mounting some "autocross only" tires on those spare wheels. Whatever we get, I'd want to be able to drive to the track with the autocross tires on, but we would use them only on autocross days, which I assume means we could do a more performance-oriented (e.g. barely road legal ) tires. Does anybody have any recommendation about the highest performance tires that could be driven to the autocross? I've heard Falken tires mentioned, but don't really know what is out there. The autocross will be used on a bone stock 996.1 -- no intention of going down the slippery slope of suspension mods on this car.

Try the Bridgestone RE71RS. Excellent 200w tires for track, autocross as well as warm weather months on the street. I run 225x40x18 front and 285x30x18 rear on Carrera 8 and 10 wheels. Very sticky. Sidewalls are very stiff which makes them very responsive, so if you use them, make sure you have a shop that knows what they are doing when installing. It takes a strap around the center and high pressure air to get them sealed.

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Thanks. Do the Bridgestones or Falken RT-660 typically take you out of stock class, or are they considered normal summer tires? I need to look and see what size my extra wheels are -- pretty sure they're 17"

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Pete. I don't know the answer for AutoX. You may need to reach out to the local group and ask how they classify them.

Another good tire is the nanking crs. They r also a 200tw tire. They should not move u out of a class because they r still a dot summer tire.

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Note: It is not in the attachment below but you can only drop down one wheel diameter from stock i.e. Stock 18" wheels can be replaced with 17" wheels without being placed in a faster run group. From the current SCCA rule book:

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Right now the hot Dot tires are: Bridgestone RE71RS or Nanking CRS 996 with tires stays in BS. You can run 17" or 18" https://www.scca-classifier.com/a/index.html

I took a look at my snow wheels/tires and they are 7.5" x 17" in front, 9" x 17" inch in rear. How do I find out what size Bridgestone RE71RS or Nanking CRS would be best to use? When I look on TireRack, they don't show any fit with these tires for a 996.1 C2 (which is probably looking for exact match to original factory tires). There should be sizes that fit for all of these brands, but not sure how to determine which sizes would be best to use (car is stock, not looking to do any fender rolling). The details on the wheels are below: Current Snow Wheels : Sport Edition Cup 4 Wheels (originally from TireRack) Rear: 17� x 9� (currently fitted with Bridgestone Blizzaks 255/40R17) Front: 17� x 7.5� (currently fitted with Bridgestone Blizzaks 225/45R17)

Peter, it may cost you a couple of extra bucks, but you may want to consider running the MAS4s on the 17 inch wheels and the 200w tires on the 18s. Not certain what the dimensions of your 18s, but there are plenty of size choices for the RE71rs. You can find all of your options on tire rack.

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What's an MAS4? (google didn't help ) . EDIT: Figured out MAS4 is Michelin All Seasons. All of my wheels (original and spare snow wheels) are 17". I plan on keeping the Michelin All-Seasons on the original Porsche 17" Turbo Twists (and running those all the time except for autocross days). I really want to keep the regular use tires on the original wheels (I'm an originality guy). I think my Turbo Twists are 7x17 (996.362.124.00) front and 8.5x 17 (996.362.126.05) rear -- so the snow wheels are actually 1/2" wider front & rear. I'll use the 17x7.5 (front) / 17x9 (rear) Sport Edition Cup 4 Wheels for the Bridgestones (or whatever ultra performance tire I end up with) for Autocross only (including driving to the track). I see that the RE-71RS are available in the exact same sizes as the current snow tires on those wheels, so maybe those are good choices: 225/45R17: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...RSXL&tab=Sizes 255/40R17: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...RSXL&tab=Sizes There is an interesting video on the bottom of those tire links looking at wheel/tire width performance -- their results in front tire testing on a BRZ show that wider wheels (9" vs 8") and narrower tires (225 vs 245) give the best responsiveness and turn-in, performance is matched by the wider tires, but with worse feel. The Michelin All Seasons I have now are 205/50-17 on the fronts and 255/40-17 on the rears. The width video suggests 205/50-17 might have better feel than 225/45-17's on the fronts given the 7.5 inch front wheel width, but Bridgestone doesn't make a 205/50-17 in the RE-71RS.

Sorry Peter. Thought the other set were 18s. I never messed around with different 17 tire combinations. I have not measured the options, but you may want to consider the 215s up front with 255 rears. You may get a more responsive less flabby feel during turn in. The guys that have run 17s for autocross or track should be able to get you a better response and comparisons.

We are looking for a CG-Lock seat belt lock if anybody has one for sale or knows where to find one. He's getting tossed around the car quite a bit in the stock seats, and since this 996 is being kept original and is only temporarily being used for autocross (until he gets his own car), I don't want to put in any harnesses.

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Here you go... https://store.racerdirect.net/cg-loc...-seatbelt.html

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Thanks. I went immediately to the computer to order it, but sadly they are showing "out of stock".

Oh, bother.

Next best thing is to slide the seat back, pull the shoulder strap hard until it locks and slide the seat forward. Takes some practice to get it right, but it will work as effectively or better for you. After that you need a set of new seats with shoulder strap holes, a harness bar, and at least a five-point harness. I believe 4-point harnesses are no longer allowed, so the seat needs provisions for the anti-submarine straps.