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YOUR RESEARCH997.1 GT3 Workshop Manual for Clutch Job
Leading reported evidence
Check heat warping, or any other signs of physical damage
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
Look at the flywheel surface for checking, heat warping, or any other signs of physical damage.
Leading evidence: 'Check heat warping, or any other signs of physical damage' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check heat warping, or any other signs of physical damage' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
You will need a vacuum fill unit to get the air out of the system when you put the gear box back in.
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Suggestion · Original poster
After that they recommend lowering the engine from the engine mounts until there are only a couple of threads left.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'm changing the clutch using some online resources but the GT3 transmission has a cooler which slightly complicate things.
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Suggestion · Original poster
It actually looks pretty good, very straight and it was very good at the twist test (which really surprised me) but I decided to buy a new one since they aren't that expensive.
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Suggestion · Original poster
It actually looks pretty good, very straight and it was very good at the twist test (which really surprised me) but I decided to buy a new one since they aren't that expensive.
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Suggestion
We fabricated a bar with adjustable tabs that hold the engine up using a single pole jack, and then use a standard transmission jack with a couple chunks or wood to take up the slack, and a single nylon tie down strap over the top of the gearbox.
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Suggestion
We fabricated a bar with adjustable tabs that hold the engine up using a single pole jack, and then use a standard transmission jack with a couple chunks or wood to take up the slack, and a single nylon tie down strap over the top of the gearbox.
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Generation: 20261026T191851Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Does anyone know where to find a 997.1 GT3 Workshop manual? I got an online pdf version that was supposed to have it but it only includes regular 997s.
I'm changing the clutch using some online resources but the GT3 transmission has a cooler which slightly complicate things. What I'm trying to see is what is the easiest way to tackle that - can I avoid draining the coolant by removing the cooler from the transmission and leaving it in the car?
I'm also not sure if the GT3 requires engine removal with the transmission or if the transmission can be removed by itself.
That manual was never in print (Porsche ceased printing all service manuals in early 2004). Since then, the only way to get access to the factory manuals is by a subscription service called Porsche PIWIS TSI.
The engine does not have to come out, and you can clamp off the coolant lines to the cooler.
Thank you so much!
It's very helpful to know that they engine doesn't have to come out and (if I understood correctly you leave the cooler on the transmission.
Do you know if there is a special procedure to refill the coolant or gear oil due to the transmission cooler?
The gear oil is straight forward, fill it till it overflows. You will need a vacuum fill unit to get the air out of the system when you put the gear box back in.
I can't thank you enough!
Great info and I'm also glad you told me about the Porsche website, I'm going to enroll after I get done with work today to download everything that I need!
It was actually very fair! I paid $15 and I was able to access their system (and print many guides) for a full hour!
The problem that I see is that the GT3 procedure is way more involved than I thought. The workshop manual suggests to create a special tool that tightens around the oil pan ridge and bolts in the there. Then remove all the bracing (including the two diagonals) and the main cross member that is under the engine/transmission.
After that they recommend lowering the engine from the engine mounts until there are only a couple of threads left.
I lave a transmission jack and transmission stand but I don't have that tool and asking a shop to create one will cost me a few hundred dollars (and who know after how many tries will get it right). Without the tool you don't get proper strapping around the engine so if something goes wrong you could actually drop the engine on the ground (currently the car is on a lift).
I think at this point unless anyone has a better suggestion I'll call it quits - the idea of risking so much it's not worth it at any price. I'm going to put back the under panels axles, electrical connectors etc and pay my Porsche tax at the specialty shop. FYI the dealership and most shops quote $5,500-5,800 for the job (including parts).
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On both 996 and 997 models, you have to support the engine while pulling the gearbox, as the gear box mounts are also the front engine mounts. So pulling the gearbox without supporting the engine will get very exciting to say the least. Most shops do not have the Porsche tools as they are ridiculously expensive, and simply make their own. We fabricated a bar with adjustable tabs that hold the engine up using a single pole jack, and then use a standard transmission jack with a couple chunks or wood to take up the slack, and a single nylon tie down strap over the top of the gearbox. Works well, doesn't cost much, and we have never had a problem.
I have a transmission jack and a transmission post/stand which I purchased just for that but the stand (which I was planning to use to hold the engine) has just a small rubber top.
I guess my question is if just a one point support will be enough for the engine or if Its necessary to fabricate something to provide support in a wider area ... let me take a second look - I honestly love working on my cars and I would like to do this myself.
Here is what I have
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You should be good with that, but I would suggest putting a hockey puck on top of the pole jack supporting the engine, which will protect the engine cases.
This is what the engine support bar looks like; the end tabs bolt to suspension mounts and the center bolt cranks up to support the engine:
[IMG]http://htsmall.***************/assets/ppp/images/size/600x600/sku/P915426.jpg[/IMG]
Opps, seems the knuckleheads that run this site will not allow images from another website......sorry
Thank you! I went forward with the disassembly and everything went on like a breeze but now I'm stuck on how to remove the gearbox. It moves out about 1/4" but the it doesn't want to slide out anymore. I didn't force it so maybe that's what I need to do.
Does anyone has the specs for the flywheel thickness?
In close inspection the old clutch doesn't look very bad (well below the rivets).
Which makes sense since it only slipped a couple of times under very certain conditions.
The flywheel has signs of overheating but no scoring, while the elastomeric material inside seems very healthy (I read in the Porsche website maximum 15mm of play on each direction).
I'm going to remove it to check if it's 100% straight and then decide if I should scrub the surface (I heard dual mass can't be resurfaced) put a new pilot bearing and re-install it or if I should get a new one.
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The flywheel cannot be resurfaced, and to my knowledge, there is not thickness spec. Usually, if the flywheel is beat, it will fail the twist test anyway.
Look at the flywheel surface for checking, heat warping, or any other signs of physical damage. Of you find any, get a new one. Buy it in the aftermarket, the LUK brand is the factory flywheel and typically can be found for $400-500. Amazon even sells them.
It actually looks pretty good, very straight and it was very good at the twist test (which really surprised me) but I decided to buy a new one since they aren't that expensive. I might end up selling this on eBay for anyone that is more adventurous than me.
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