Hello all. Last week, while attempting to replace the serpentine belt on my 2006 CS, I broke the bolt holding the tensioner pulley on the lever arm that is on the "front" of the engine. There is not enough clearance to replace the bolt.
Removing the lever arm is the only solution. I did some research - people discussed dropping the engine to remove the tensioner, pulling out the PS pump and AC compressor, removing the starter wire, oil filler tube, and other tubing, etc.
The fix requires removal of both intake plenums, accessing the cap screw/bolt inside the round tensioner, pulling the lever arm out, and installing the new bolt and pulley while the arm is out. You have to tighten the assembly to 43 ft lbs.
I was able to get to the cap screw (Allen bolt) by removing both plenums, then using a 5 mm "round head" long hex wrench for 3/8 drive combined with a flex ratchet. Once the bolt came out I can pull out the lever arm to allow the insertion of the tensioner pulley bolt. Once I figured out you need a long round head 5 mm wrench it was easy. I'm cleaning the small amount of oil in the plenums and throttle body as well.
Does the screw you removed thread directly into the end of the (item 8) lever arm?
Yes, it does, there is a treaded hole in the lever arm.
Yes, that's correct.
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Wow - that's a casebook instance of overly complex German engineering for what should be a simple easy-to-replace part (like it is on the 2009 and newer engines..)
I assume #10 is some sort of spring/tension/hydraulic-maybe device? How did turning the other end cause the bolt to break if the square end was keyed into the tensioner? No internal stop in that device? Sheeezeee..
Oh well - you got to clean out your intake.
The aftermarket Conti belt I got was so tight I pushed the tensioner to the limit and busted the bolt. It was really frustrating - Autozone listed a shorter belt than required.
I believe the 987.2 motor has a more normal tensioner setup! It's a ridiculous setup.
The tensioner is the round item that's a spring. It has an internal stop, but I was pushing on the breaker bar while screwing around with the belt and the bolt broke.
even the Porsche belt was really tight but not impossible to get on all the pulleys.
It's really odd - but even on the
987.2
engine - the specified length belt was simply not going on when I did the 60,000 mile service. Ended up getting the
next
size larger from a NAPA dealer and it fit just fine, with normal tensioner positioning.
Wonder if the belt manufacturers are shorting us a bit or if the
Porsche
engineers are just incompetent.
After two
Conti
belts and one Dayco I ordered a
Porsche
belt. I was able to get it on the car. Success!
Can you provide info on the sizes the belts claimed to be? Usually on the belt and the packaging..
Sure. The Continental part # is 6PK-2115.
The Dayco is shown at
https://na.daycoaftermarket.com/en/#page=application
The OEM Porsche belt I got from Pelican Parts at
Porsche Belt 6K X 2115 Genuine Porsche 996-102-151-66 996 102 151 66 996.102.151.66 99610215166 | Pelican Parts
The first one gives a length of 2115 (I removed that picture of the screen capture.
The second one - I have no idea what you used for the "Application" on the Dayco website
II Googled the last one using the PN - and find that a lot of aftermarket listings for it have 2115 somewhere in the listing or PN.. and the Porsche one - I found a picture:
Note the
6PK2115Lb
- that's 6 ribs, 2115 length
That's the same thing I found on my '09 2.9L engine - the specificed length was simply too short, at least in a Continental belt.
I used the Continental OE Technology Series 4060835 6-Rib, 83.5" Multi-V Belt for my 2008 - 987.1. It was tight but got it on. Seems I had to try different pulleys as the last pulley for the belt to be put on.
Old thread but...This is the only post I've found with "some" info on tensioner removal. My tensioner has failed and I've purchased the
Conti
kit with all the pulleys, belt, bolts and that round block behind the lever called the tensioner. But I can't find any guide on how to replace this part. In your experience do you have to remove the A/C compressor/PS pump to remove the tensioner?
This part seems very critical in keeping your belt on. Mine failed along with overly complex
alternator
pulley leading to shreaded relatively new
Conti
belt. Since my son took the car to the store and he doesn't watch any of the gauges, it lost PS and cooling....now I have to replace not only the belt/pulleys but the tensioner and cooling system plastic water manifold in front of the engine....which by the way requires motor mount and oil pressure relief valve removal....
Anyhow, any insight or info source into tensioner removal is appreciated.
