19 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBrake Caliper leak, damaged bleeder threads
Leading reported evidence
Run tap all the way in
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Suggestion
I did disassemble the caliper since I had to remove it anyway and gave it a good clean, and rebuilt it after the drilling and flushing out all the metal thread flakes, reinstalled the pistons with fresh 28mm and 30mm dust boots from the repair kit and bled the system.
Leading evidence: 'Run tap all the way in' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair kit and bled the system' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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1
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Suggestion
I did disassemble the caliper since I had to remove it anyway and gave it a good clean, and rebuilt it after the drilling and flushing out all the metal thread flakes, reinstalled the pistons with fresh 28mm and 30mm dust boots from the repair kit and bled the system.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
I�ve bought the repair kit and the drill/npt set is enroute.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
Actually the repair kit provides a new seat for a smaller screw.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Repair kit and bled the system
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
I did disassemble the caliper since I had to remove it anyway and gave it a good clean, and rebuilt it after the drilling and flushing out all the metal thread flakes, reinstalled the pistons with fresh 28mm and 30mm dust boots from the repair kit and bled the system.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
I had tightened it down a little, and that had seemed to help, but this weekend (when going in to replace the brake lines), I realized that the bleeder was still leaking, but probably only when at full pressure while braking.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
I had tightened it down a little, and that had seemed to help, but this weekend (when going in to replace the brake lines), I realized that the bleeder was still leaking, but probably only when at full pressure while braking.
My car: 2004 C4S 6MT
So my left rear bleeder valve (inside) has leaked in the past after I got the car. I had tightened it down a little, and that had seemed to help, but this weekend (when going in to replace the brake lines), I realized that the bleeder was still leaking, but probably only when at full pressure while braking.
So, took the caliper completely off, then removed the bleeder valves. (I have brand-new valves that I was going to put on.) However, the threads for the inside bleeder valve are completely trashed!!! I have a thread-chaser (not a tap), but there are no good threads to even get it started. There may be good threads deeper in, but I can't get anything started without chewing them up worse.
So, do I now have to buy a new caliper? Given that it's a hydraulic seal, this isn't an area where thread repair will work. Is there another solution that I'm missing?
My car: 2004 C4S 6MT, so I think the part number is 996-352-425 (Left Rear caliper)
Will this part number (for C4S and Turbo) always be red? I don't have to worry about that, right?
I've found one new for about $700, or used and questionable looking for $390. Does this sound about right? Any good deals anyone knows about?
Thanks!
EDIT: corrected that it's the Left Rear, not the right rear
Remember its not the treads on a bleader screw that make the seal its the interfereance fit of the tapper at the bottom the screw to the caliper. Just be carefull to not go too deep making the repair
Actually the repair kit provides a new seat for a smaller screw. I think drilled down a half an inch. I also removed the pistons on that side to make sure no debris was inside the caliper.
What it looks like installed
Hi, the kit from Autozone that you used contained 2 sets of seat & bleeder screw of different sizes. Did you use the larger set ? If so, what size drill and tap did you use for that seat/scree combo ? I am facing the same repair right now on 2002 996 Targa so any details you have would be great... thanks
It looks like I bought this:
Amazon
Amazon
So a 7/16 drill and a 1/4 NPT tap.
I did have one issue that I only drilled down about 1/2 and inch or so, you don't want to damage the bottom of the hole, which is the sealing surface. Then, the 1/4 tap is also tapered, and starts out fairly narrow. So initially it only cut very shallow threads before i bottomed out in the hole. So I then had to cut the tap shorter (using my Dremel), in order to use a wider part of the tap, so it would actually cut full threads. It was kind of a mess. But, eventually, I got good threads, and the Dorman kit linked here worked. No leaks yet in over a year.
Happy my advice worked for at least one person!
Yes that�s the tap and drill bit for the large one.
With bleeding brakes after every track event I�ve opened and closed it maybe 30 times with no leaks.
thank you so much for the extra details. I�m about to try it in the next week. I�ve bought the repair kit and the drill/npt set is enroute. Wish me luck.
did u drill with the caliper attached, or did you remove the caliper to drill ?
For the tap they make different styles. Most taps that u see r "starting" taps but for tapping into a closed hole u want to look for an "end" tap. Having both taps will make the job easier.
The important part is that it is a tapered tap. When the fitting is installed it becomes tighter and tighter creating the seal. I ran the tap all the way in to the caliper.
I've done a few of these over the years. Just as
hbdunn
says, they work great if installed correctly.
Couple misconceptions on this thread I'll try to straighten out.
1) As you can see in the below pic,
the threaded insert has its own flared end bleeder seat.
Not to worry about drilling thru the original bleeder flare seat as it won't be used again. Drill right thru it all the way.
2) There are many different type repair kits. Some kits have multiple size bleeder inserts with NPT threads(national pipe threads) some have UNF threads(Unified National Fine Thread). These threads need to be treated differently.
The NPT threads are self sealing with the proper torque. Yes a little pipe dope/sealer or even Teflon tape will lubricate these NPT fittings so they can reach the proper torque needed to seal 100% forever.
The UNF threads are not self sealing and need a good thread sealer and must be threaded enough to allow fitting to bottom out.
3) IMHO,,,
ALWAYS
take apart the caliper first to clean out all the drill/tapping debris you're sure to get. If not using a drill press with table vise, if hand drilling, put caliper in a soft jaws vise securely to allow a quality straight drilling/tapping procedure. Clean out with lots of compressed air and brake clean.
Now is a very good time to rebuild the caliper with a simple to do seal/dust boot kit. Hey, its already apart, why not spend the $30 bucks for the kit and have a like new working caliper...?
4) No bottom tap is needed, a regular tap is fine if you drill it enough. Actually thats the key, drill baby drill.... As far as i know, other than a bottom tap that taps a blind hole, all taps are tapered. NPT taps
look
' more tapered because the npt threads have a good taper and thats how npt fittings bottom out and seal great.
5) A tip for NPT inserts... In order to get the high torque need for a good lasting npt seal and not distort the threaded new seat insert, before threading in the insert,, screw in the bleeder valve first, nice and snug to give the fitting more strength to let you tighten it properly...
jmo
thank you hbdunn and Allcool for the detailed commentary.
I was able to successfully drill out a new hole with the 7/16" drill and tap a new thread using the 1/4 npt so that using the larger of the 2 screws in that Dorman package worked like a charm.
I did disassemble the caliper since I had to remove it anyway and gave it a good clean, and rebuilt it after the drilling and flushing out all the metal thread flakes, reinstalled the pistons with fresh 28mm and 30mm dust boots from the repair kit and bled the system. Test drive shows it working as expected with no leaks. I'll monitor the new bleeder screw to ensure it lasts but so far this has been a success thanks to you sharing your experiences...
