changing rotors, any DIY's?

after four hot florida track events at sebring my rotors look ready for a chanage. i've learned to change pads (thanks to an article at cc), but there's no article on rotor change. also, has anyone found rotors they would consider better than oem?

Did you measure them, and found them to be under sized? The minimum thickness is stamped on the rotor hat. Do you have cracks extending from the holes (assuming it's an S) and they're touching crack to crack or cracks extending to the outer rim of the rotor ? Are you experiencing a pulsation in the brake pedal? These are the conditions under which you'll need to replace the rotors...if none of the above, then your rotors are fine. I'm not an advocate of cutting rotors, especially if you're tracking the car... The OEM rotors are really good, but over the years, I've come to like the Diversified Cryogenics frozen rotors...to me they make a difference in rotor life, but some folks don't like them...YMMV

As I didn't answer your question, I should've continued: If you want to change the rotors, you have to remove the calipers...the bolts are allen head I think, and Porsche recommends that they be replaced if removed...and I think they have a spot of Locktite on them...some folks replace them, and some don't, again, YMMV... When you remove the caliper, be careful to support it from a sturdy part of the suspension so as to not put any strain on the brake lines...it's really a pretty straightforward thing to do..

Hey Croxster, What in good heavens, is " YMMV " ? ...Have never come across tht before. American acronyms always intrigue me...

Your mileage may vary ...

Ah...Thank goodness it was as simple as that...It really sounded ominous, and I have to admit my fertile imagination did get carried away...

Doc Bookmark this site & never wonder again.

TY STLPCA...You are an asset to the institution.... However, I still havent figured out ur title name....Am afraid of resorting back to my imagination ....

If I'm not mistaken: STL = airport code for St. Louis, Missouri PCA = Porsche Club of America FYI, bet = my initials As to your question: the rotor change is easy. As stated above basically remove the calipers and then the rotors come off with the small screw (maybe 2 screws). I don't have a link handy but if you do a search on Renntech.org's DIY section for the 996 and/or Boxster the same procedures apply. Very simple and easy.

i successfully changed my rear rotors. for the rear rotors you must release the emergency brake. first open the brake fluid reservoir, remove the wheel and separate the pads as much as possible, i use a brake pad separator i got from sears. for the rear rotors you just remove the brake caliper with a 10mm hex or allen head. this is best done with a 3/8 inch torque wrench . there are two of these bolts on each end of the caliper. the front rotors also require a 10mm bolt to be removed that holds a support bracket for the front rotors or caliper (i haven't done fronts, but if you look behind the front rotors you will see this bolt and bracket). the caliper will just hang in mid air and you do not have to worry about it dropping. for the rear rotors there is no extra 10mm support bracket as there is on the front rotors. then remove two #2 phillips head screws. these screws can be rusted in and require an impact screwdriver. all this means is a screwdriver you can bang the end if necessary. the rotors will now come off. the new rotor has to be aligned in a certain way so the screws will go back in. when you put the caliper back on, the two bolts must be torqued to 65 ft-lbs. put your wheel back on and you done. don't forget to pump your brake pedal so you have brakes when you take off. at my dealer they charge two hours labor for two rotors to be changed. this is $218. if you are used to changing you pads (as i am) this will take you no longer than one hour.

What kind of rotors did you decide to go for?

Just one point: you should NEVER let a caliper just hang by the brake hose. The hose is meant to contain braking pressure only, and not as a support for the caliper. You can very easily damage the hose, especially near one of the ends. This damage will be invisible until the hose ruptures, which would be bad. For best and safest results, you should ALWAYS use/make a hangar for the caliper. I use a section of old wire clothes hangar -- clip a piece about a foot long (as long as needed for your car) and bend a hook in each end about 1.5 inches long. Then, put one hook into a brake caliper hole and put the other hook some place that will support the caliper's weight, such as one of the coils of the spring. It doesn't have to be fancy, it just has to support the weight of the caliper.

Another point to consider/FYI...on the 986, 993 and 996 I owned, the tech. manual calls for the replacement of the caliper bolts if they are removed. I am assuming the Cayman's does also. Also do not loosen anything with a torque wrench . They are only designed for tightening.

For anyone anticipating a rotor change, be sure to contact Greg at Road Sport Supply ( Road Sport Supply - Home ). They are one of our sponsors and bring us among other things the IPD Plenum, Cargraphic exhaust and GiroDisc, what I feel is the best replacement rotor available for Porsche, Cayman S included. Their rotor options include: Over-sized rotors (primarily for better heat dissipation) supplied with billet aluminum caliper spacers. Standard diameter rotors also available (this in concert with the aluminum hats will reduce your unsprung weight about 3 pounds per corner). Two grades of lightweight billet aluminum hats (regular and heat treated) with floating rotors (our OEM are one piece cast iron hat/rotor = heavy!). They will provide the rotors undrilled, drilled, slotted or drilled and slotted. The rotors are internally zinc coated to reduce internal corrosion and the annoying rusty water that drips out. This is the GiroDisc description from Road Sport Supply's web site: Girodisc is a Braking Technology company that is dedicated to the development and manufacturing of high quality brake components and brake systems. The Girodisc product line is engineered and designed for race track applications. Girodisc produces a line of two-piece rotor replacement discs and component upgrades for today’s high performing European exotics. Girodisc also offers several lines of OE replacement sized parts for your factory brake system. Putting lessons learned and the latest technologies together to develop the highest performance braking systems for your project, racing car, or road car is the mission of Girodisc. When I last spoke with Geoff, the owner of RSS, he explained that his braking engineering consultant is considered as the most respected high performance braking resource in the world. I hope this is helpful! Regards, Joe

For competition use, check with your club before going with two piece lightweight rotors. They might not be legal modifications for some classes. I was told this was the case for the POC. The good thing is that it must mean they really do work!

stock, but i had them cryogenically frozen. this supposedly makes them last longer and more resistant to over heating. i wish i had known this. thanks. they did seem really solid hanging and it did not seem like they were under a lot of stress. but i agree with you 100%. something else i wish i would have known. the bolts seem fine. not even wheel bolts?