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YOUR RESEARCHMotor mount replacement
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Use rein
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Leading evidence: 'Use rein' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend removing the bumper' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I watched a half dozen YouTube videos on replacing the engine mounts and not a single one recommended removing the bumper
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Suggestion
I watched a half dozen YouTube videos on replacing the engine mounts and not a single one recommended removing the bumper
Replace engine mounts and wondering what everyone is
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Suggestion · Original poster
Looking at replacing the engine mounts and wondering what everyone is using?
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Suggestion
I was also changing the L cam sensor and the #4 plug/coil that I couldn't get at the first time, so I lowered the engine a few inches and removed the rear engine crossmember (because it was in the way of getting the buggered bolt out of the cam sensor)
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Suggestion
I was also changing the L cam sensor and the #4 plug/coil that I couldn't get at the first time, so I lowered the engine a few inches and removed the rear engine crossmember (because it was in the way of getting the buggered bolt out of the cam sensor)
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Suggestion
You will need to take off the rear bumper, support the rear of the engine, and use a 15mm deep impact driver to get the crossmember - motor mount nut off, and (I think) a simple 13mm socket for the motor mount to body bolts.
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28 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Looking at replacing the engine mounts and wondering what everyone is using? Looking on Ebay and you can find them for like $85 for brand new OEM ones? Just wondering what folks are using.
I went with the RS mount from Rennpart. Comes as a full kit and I opted for the URO first since I wasn�t entirely sure I was going to like them.
https://rennpart.com/product/rs-engine-mount-upgrade/
I've had the RS ones for 2 years + now with zero issues. Definitely tighter than stock ones but not as stiff as some other aftermarket ones I felt. They still use rubber which will have more natural give than even the softer polyurethane mounts.
Like Pete, I�m happy with mine. The car had semi solids of unknown origin that I didn�t like too much. Rennpart is a sponsor on here so I generally like to give them business.
Since I'm not tracking the car or going nuts with it, is it safe to say you get what you pay for. Reason I'm asking is the ones on Ebay "look" exactly like the Renn ones on the Renn site but they are like $90 instead of $300.
The $300 Renn kit uses URO aftermarket mounts and all new hardware. I�m sure you can find the mounts alone for less but look for hardware while you�re at it.
Has anyone done the poly urethane modification to their mounts. It stiffens them up more yet allows for some movement? I'll probably give that a shot as well.
I don't blame you for going with the URO after just seeing the genuine Porsche kit has doubled in price since I bought mine in early 2018. It's currently $800.00 for the Porsche kit from Rennpart vs $400.00 in 2018.
It looks like I used some kind of coupon code so it brought the price down to $360.
I just replaced mine.
I used the REIN from rockauto $100ea
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=5552&jsn=441
You will need to take off the rear bumper, support the rear of the engine, and use a 15mm deep impact driver to get the crossmember - motor mount nut off, and (I think) a simple 13mm socket for the motor mount to body bolts.
You also have to remove the secondary air pump on the left side.
Paul
OE Porsche
+ didn�t have to remove the bumper
I watched a half dozen YouTube videos on replacing the engine mounts and not a single one recommended removing the bumper
RSS mounts made a big improvement in the feel of the rear of the car. Much more planted and predictable.
Yes, more vibration and noise, but everything is a trade off.
You generally get what you pay for.
Never tried it. If you want a stiffer mount, go with the RS mounts as Pete and Joel have suggested. Why go thru a DIY exercise if you dont have to.
But I have to say, the Rein mounts work great on both the track and street. I don't give them a second thought.
I had a BEEOTCH of a time getting one of the 15mm nuts off. I used PB Blaster, a long breaker bar, a propane torch, and a 110v electric impact driver with a 15mm deep impact socket (I had to drive across the bay bridge to get the last 2)
All I remember was "I am glad the bumper is off so I can see what is going on up there..."
I was also changing the L cam sensor and the #4 plug/coil that I couldn't get at the first time, so I lowered the engine a few inches and removed the rear engine crossmember (because it was in the way of getting the buggered bolt out of the cam sensor)
I guess it can be done it without removing the bumper.
Paul
We hear that the harmonic vibration creates a problem, but nobody has come on RL to say they actually did have a problem. Would love to really know if it's true.
