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YOUR RESEARCHQuestion on shift cable rear retaining clips
Leading reported evidence
Replace cable out
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When I changed my cable out to the Numeric cables, mine had been zip tied for about three years...I cut them and put new ones on when I was done...
Leading evidence: 'Replace cable out' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace cable out' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used the heavy gauge green coated ground wire like used on homes.
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I used the heavy gauge green coated ground wire like used on homes.
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Suggestion
For track use I could see them breaking if you hit some debris on the track after an accident (I think for track use wiring them may be required).
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Outcome without a verified action link
Zip ties fixed the issue when I got home and the car jacked up, must say that the shift feel has vastly improved.Oh yeah, the onset of the problem for me was a track day.
After some research and going to the dealer it seems I have a question. Just wanted to know before I got her tore down. Is it just me, or does the top cable retaining clip(blue cable) look like either of the interior(under console) clips? The brass looking "loom" clips holding the shift cable in place; not the ball-joint/shift linkage side. The bottom clip is clearly the correct one. They have booth came loose in the last month or so, just figured they needed replacing. Borrowed the under car and in-car photos, I DO NOT have under car/interior ssk, yet. First pic is what the dealer sold me. Are the clips interchangeable, bottom to top and top to bottom?
I usualy just safety wire them to the bracket, (i wasnt aware you could buy them seperate from the cable) just drill a hole in each end of the U and wrap a wire trhough and tie it
You can buy the rear clips($6 for two), but not the front clips (under console). The dealer just told me the two they gave me were the only ones they have available. The top one is obviously different from the bottom one. It looks exactly like the ones under the console to me. I guess I'll just have to "tie" them down. Probably gonna do it this weekend. I'll let you guys know if maybe the top clip will work as a "new upgraded designed" clip. We all know how Porsche likes to change parts and not tell anyone about it.
sorry to bump an old thread....
can someone please post the Porsche part #'s for the clips in pictures 4 & 5 (the pics showing the clips under the chassis of the porsche...next to the transmission housing)
Thanks in advance!
Different approach to shortening your shifts from the transmission side instead. B&M and RUF had these units. Didn't do so well in terms of sales so you could find one for practically a steal(~25 at one point).
2004 AE - My Indy added zip ties a couple of months ago - not sure why but just found out when local dealer brought them to my attention as if it were a disaster waiting to happen. What is the issue if the zip ties fail? Thanks.
On mine, I could not engage Reverse, 1st, 3rd, 5th. This left me with just 2nd, 4th, 6th. This happened miles from home, but I still made it back by avoiding stopping where possible, and slipping the clutch in 2nd gear a bit to get going where necessary. I did have to push the car back out of my parking space :-)
Zip ties fixed the issue when I got home and the car jacked up, must say that the shift feel has vastly improved.Oh yeah, the onset of the problem for me was a track day. I think the G forces can encourage the cable to move out from the bracket.
Was at Sebring a few weeks ago on a DE, on the second session getting out of the hair pin, the car wouldn't get out of 3rd and i had no feeling on the shift.
Limped back to the pits to discover both cables had come off the bracket. Zip tied them in place and finished the day. I will drill the bracket and safety wire them in place, I like that better than zip ties that can brake.
^the chances of them breaking on their own are pretty slim... For track use I could see them breaking if you hit some debris on the track after an accident (I think for track use wiring them may be required). When I changed my cable out to the Numeric cables, mine had been zip tied for about three years...I cut them and put new ones on when I was done...
I think it is hard to argue that zip ties are more durable than a safety wire.
A quick google search on "zip tie brittle" will lead you to many manufacturer and distributor sites that will say that non-metallic zip ties get brittle over time, especially in temperature extremes and very low humidity. Apparently, most are made of Nylon 6/6 material which is susceptible to this.
That shouldn't stop anyone from using zip ties, but for my time/effort/money, I'll stick with safety wire.
Eh... to each his own! If �safety wire� makes you feel good, then go for it...
As I stayed in my other post, my zip ties were on there for three years and didn�t suffer any brittleness. That�s my story, and I�m sticking with �em
Finally got around applying a more permanent fix for the shift cables, tie wraps have been holding ok but I am going to another DE next week and wanted something a bit more robust.
I’ve done the same to mine.
No need to remove to drill the bracket.
I use .032 Aircraft safety wire.
These make it easier to install properly:
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-s...QaAsFvEALw_wcB
Thank you so much for the info. I am still not sure how these are drilled. When I have 986 on jackstands, I can barely maneuver my hand around to get to the clips. A little more detail and photos will help this slow learner. I really appreciate any help you can provide.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.