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YOUR RESEARCHGT-3 Sway bar settings
Leading reported evidence
Use gmg world cup bars
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Leading evidence: 'Use gmg world cup bars' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust from there' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Can't ever go wrong by starting in the middle and adjusting from there.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I am changing my swaybars to the Tarrett GT-3 clones and their droplinks.
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Suggestion
, of you are running OE Struts amd springs with standard 225x40x18 and 285x30x18 tires, I would probably start in the front with the center hole (middle of 5) and start the rear at 1 hole from the stiffest setting which is 3 out of 4 holes.
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Suggestion
, of you are running OE Struts amd springs with standard 225x40x18 and 285x30x18 tires, I would probably start in the front with the center hole (middle of 5) and start the rear at 1 hole from the stiffest setting which is 3 out of 4 holes.
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I am changing my swaybars to the Tarrett GT-3 clones and their droplinks. I am curious as to how everyone is setting the stiffness at both the front and back. I want to minimize the understeer and optimise the car for the 1). Canyon carving 2). Autocross 3) HPDE
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Start middle middle.
Stiffen rear -> more front grip.
Loosen rear -> less front grip.
They change the other end of the car.
I would not go less tham middle on front without thinking closely.
Brad
@hbdunn
is the track setup whiz for Carerra.
Can't ever go wrong by starting in the middle and adjusting from there. But alot of it depends on what you are running for coilovers, your coilover settings, wheel & tire sizes, whether you have an LSD or not, aero, etc.
Im full stiff in back and 1 from stiff in front for mainly hpde. Ohlins set 7f and 9r clicks from full stiff. Never played with the rear bar setting as the back as its perfect 4 me. If i make the front looser and it has terrible overstear. I use the gmg world cup bars.
Thanks. I have had other recommendations on having the front stiffer than the rear. Suspension was just refreshed with the FCP Euro kits but still stock.
@biela
, of you are running OE Struts amd springs with standard 225x40x18 and 285x30x18 tires, I would probably start in the front with the center hole (middle of 5) and start the rear at 1 hole from the stiffest setting which is 3 out of 4 holes.
You can always soften the front by one notch to get less understeer or tighten the rear to full stiff to get less understeer.
Just make sure to make small incremental changes to see its effects on handling in a controlled environment before you go all out on the canyons and track.
OP - If you�re on regular struts and shocks (not coils), I suggest you run fronts neutral and one hole more firm in back. The goal is to limit squat on power and reduce design understeer. Start there because the rear sways are super easy to adjust. I�m two stiff from neutral in back, middle in front with a lot more torque than stock, with excellent track and street turn-in and on-throttle with M030 RoW sticks and springs.
Every driver blends hand and foot movements differently so front/rear balance is a little subjective once you find a decent start point for a nice stable car when you give it the whip.
