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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHReplacing air con pipes today. Any tips?
Reported or suspected cause
routing of the pipe
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Reported cause · Original poster
The other issue is the routing of the pipe under the wheel arch and into the frunk.
Leading evidence: 'routing of the pipe' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'routing of the pipe' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend soaking' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
DO NOT DAMAGE the aluminium fixing that attaches to the pipe that goes over the engine (engine out to replace as the fixings can't be replaced separately).
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Suggestion · Original poster
I would recommend soaking for a day or more with some lubricant.
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Suggestion
Note where all the various pipes run for refitting.
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Suggestion
Aircon pipe fixings are plastic and have a plastic female hex fitting which won't hold the key, use a flat blade screwdriver to prise it down and it will release allowing the fixing clip at the side to open.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
DO NOT DAMAGE the aluminium fixing that attaches to the pipe that goes over the engine (engine out to replace as the fixings can't be replaced separately).
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Aircon pipe fixings are plastic and have a plastic female hex fitting which won't hold the key, use a flat blade screwdriver to prise it down and it will release allowing the fixing clip at the side to open.
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Suggestion
Various internet info said to put PAG46 on the O rings during assembly, others said only do this just before fitting as it causes the O rings to swell, other said use silicone grease.
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8 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T052503Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
My daughters 996 C4 had a pinprick hole in the longer of the two under floor Aircon pipes. I have ordered the new pipe plus gaskets et cetera and my project this morning is to replace it.
Has anyone done this and do you have any advice? I understand that I might need to move the fuel filler neck?
Can I do this on jeckstands?
Yes I did this last week, search YT for a discussion walk through on how to do it. Yes you will need to loosen the filler neck to get the wider pipe out, push out/in the plastic cover around the neck to make it loose, it's fiddly but not too hard on jack stands, there will be some swearing.
The potential nightmare is having the bolts behind the drivers seat being impossible to remove so you may need to cut them. DO NOT DAMAGE the aluminium fixing that attaches to the pipe that goes over the engine (engine out to replace as the fixings can't be replaced separately). Destroy the other side if needed on the pipe being replaced and drill out the remaining bolt.
Get the system vacuumed empty first, don't use heat as the oil produces Mustard gas at temperature!
O rings are about £5 each from Porsche but are an odd size so it's worth the P tax compared to refilling the system. Cable holders/rubber mounting are £5 and Suction line (Wide) £125, Pressure line (narrow) £105 - all prices + VAT. Buy a replacement Dryer on eBay for £10 rather than Porsche @ £70.
That's vey kind of you. Thank you. I've already made sure all bolts are not seized. I did try YouTube without success. I searched 996 aircon pipes diy
I'm going in now!
The YT video seems to have disappeared now but it's a fairly logical process.
The evap canister 'just' pulls out towards the wheel. To refit put the rubber bungs back in the bracket (as they may still be attached to the canister) and lube the prongs that fit the bungs, line up & push home.
Note where all the various pipes run for refitting.
Aircon pipe fixings are plastic and have a plastic female hex fitting which won't hold the key, use a flat blade screwdriver to prise it down and it will release allowing the fixing clip at the side to open.
Various internet info said to put PAG46 on the O rings during assembly, others said only do this just before fitting as it causes the O rings to swell, other said use silicone grease. Take your pick for your method of choice and and hopefully it will be the right one!
I hope you have completed the job by now but if not then you may be struggling to see how the new pipe could possibly be manipulated back where the old one came from. Especially awkward on axle stands, took me several hours of fiddling and much bad language before I got there.
You are already well ahead if you have the connections loosened, this is usually a real PITA.
Good luck!
All done. Thanks for the support.
The 2 biggest issues are the bolts on the connections at each end of the pipe. The rear one by the rear wheel will be corroded. I was aware that mucking up the next section of pipe which runs over the engine would be expensive. I would recommend soaking for a day or more with some lubricant. Then only using very good quality hex sockets or tools. There must be no wriggle room in the fit between the socket and the bolt. I have some professional quality long hex tools and even with these it was touch and go if I was going to round off the bolt. It took at least 30 mins of back and forward micro turns to crack the bolt.
The other issue is the routing of the pipe under the wheel arch and into the frunk. I thought that I had remembered the routing but it was trial and error. A video of the original would have saved me an hour.
Once unbolted at each end I cut the old pipe with a hack saw (the system was empty due to the leak) and this made manoeuvring the old pipe out of the wheel arch easier.
It is very doable but takes patience and good quality tools.
