Glove box lock/tumbler - write up

Hey all, So my car - 04' 996 C2 didn't come with a glove box lock. No idea why, it had a brand new glove box door handle but no lock. Anyway - Porsche quoted me over $600 for the lock coded to my vin and another US supplier said they could only get the entire lock set for $450. I decided to look into it, first thing I found is that the lock is a VAG one - go figure. It's actually an Audi lock - 8L0857113A which is around $150 and you still need a vin or use a separate key - Nahhh. Kept looking further the key type is a HU66 again a VAG type of key. So I bought a second hand complete glove box and removed the lock. Here is what I did: - first remove the 11 felt headed T10 torx screws. - to get to the last 2 screws disconnect the dampers (to do this pop them off the holding clip/hook by pulling the bottom towards you and they will pop off) if you break the clips they are p/n: 996 552 87​​​​​​9 00 ​​​​​- once you have removed the leather cover remove the handle by removing the two T20 torx screws - to remove the glove box lock tumbler pry up the four retaining clips from behind and push it out - the 'wafers' or 'gates' are numbered 1-4 (there are 3 wafers in the lock) which have very small springs next to each wafer to spring it back and forth. Further to this the wafers actually have a left and right 1-4 left and 1-4 right. See here: http://ttk.co.nz/index.php?route=product/manufacturer/info&manufacturer_id=1&page=46 If you get lucky you might be able to rearrange the wafers to suite your key the one I got I was able to re arrange although one of the wafers appears to be a replacement and isn't great so ill have to source one more wafer from a car locksmith ​​​Anyway installation is the reverse. Hope this helps someone some day! Most HU66 info I got from here: http://www.locksmithmag.com/news/vag-laser-key/ http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/gl...d-replacement/ Pic for reference: Wafer identification: Any questions - please ask!

Nice write up, thank you

Quotes source post: 14755124

Thanks, you're welcome. The info out there on glove box locks was limited so thought i'd compile it

Cool. One thing that may be helpful for the next person is how you pick the right tumblers: you basically swap them around, put the key in the lock and find the tumbler that causes the end of the tumbler to be flush with the outer edge of the cylinder when the key is inserted. If it sticks out at all, your key won't turn in the lock. I've rekeyed a bunch of locks on BMW motorcycles and the sort of funny thing is they also only use a small number of tumblers. I think four. Like you say, odds are you can swap tumblers around easily and if not, you can scavenge from another core. As I recall, you need surprisingly few tumblers to make it functional, although it is easy enough to fill each of the slots through trial and error.

Quotes source post: 14755732

Correct, good point had failed to mention that. It's tricky to explain in text but it's easy to see once it's all apart. Basically the shape of the key moves the pins in so the entire barrel is then flush and is able to move around freely until the key is removed and the wafers restrict the movement because its then not flush.

7 years later and this thread has exactly the right info to finally replace my missing glove box lock - thanks for posting it!