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YOUR RESEARCHHow to boost performance on my 996
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Replace almost everything you mention
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Almost everything you mention has been replaced including IMS.
Leading evidence: 'Replace almost everything you mention' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'biggest "bang' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace almost everything you mention' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Year, whats been replaced on the car and when, such as MAF, fuel injectors, plugs, coils, air filter, water pump, exhaust, suspension, tires, brakes, etc.
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If your 996 is eGas (doesn't have a throttle cable), I suspect the biggest "bang for the buck" mod is a Sprint Booster throttle controller.
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A free (or less) minor weight loss when changing the battery is to use a smaller Interstate H6 non-AGM that weighs 38.9 lbs -- vs around 45 lbs for the original (non-AGM) H7 -- and probably around 50lbs for a typical AGM H7.
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Big weight savings as well with replacing the oem seats with GT3 bucket equivalents and removing the back seats.
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A free (or less) minor weight loss when changing the battery is to use a smaller Interstate H6 non-AGM that weighs 38.9 lbs -- vs around 45 lbs for the original (non-AGM) H7 -- and probably around 50lbs for a typical AGM H7.
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Year, whats been replaced on the car and when, such as MAF, fuel injectors, plugs, coils, air filter, water pump, exhaust, suspension, tires, brakes, etc.
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Very little you can do to improve performance and horsepower. Unless you rebuild the block and heads to 3.8 or 4.1L. Do not install a K&N air filter. Clogs up the MAF sensor and introduces hot engine compartment air, decreasing performance and horsepower.
This is a very loaded question. Tell us about your 996. Year, whats been replaced on the car and when, such as MAF, fuel injectors, plugs, coils, air filter, water pump, exhaust, suspension, tires, brakes, etc.
Easiest way to boost HP/TQ output on the M96, is to get a great set of 200 cell cats. My suggestion is the FVD/M&M 200 cell cats, since M&M makes the Porsche motorsports exhausts, they know what they are doing. Others will make other suggestions.
But the easiest way to improve performance is thru a better suspension, tires, brakes which equate to better handling.
But the most important thing to do is to bullet proof your engine with upgrades to the IMSB, UAOS and a new water pump. Three critical failure points that need to be addressed. But are very easy to address.
Not to mention refreshing your fuel injectors, ignition coils, spark plugs, MAF, oxy sensors, to make sure your air/fuel ratios are good. Dont forget to run very high quality oil amd change it at least 2x a year. This will help with mitigating bore scoring.
The 996 is an easy car to keep running strong and fast.
So tell us about your 996.
I think you mean not to install the K&N cold air intake and not the filter per se. The K&N filter itself isn't horrible, it's the cleaning and re-oiling that can mess up the MAF sensor. I've been using the filter for three years and I can testify that it does not increase anything. I have not cleaned it so I haven't had to deal with that issue. There is a 50/50 chance I will go back to paper filters rather than try to clean it and re-oil it.
I used to live in the ford small block world. Lot's of potential for increasing horsepower - cheap too. Porsche's are not ford or chevy small blocks. If you want to be faster, refine your driving skills through instruction. Any investment into a 996 to increase horsepower is very expensive - much less expensive to buy a later 911. Or spend $40K on a "big bore" LN motor. Not really anything in between. No filter, or exhaust will result in very significant HP gains. -Significant = 20%. You can make Ford 302 with 225 horses into 300 with less than $2G in a weekend. You can't do that to a 996.
Engines wont make a lot more power, but you could optimize it with better intake and exhaust (and at the least this will make it sound amazing!).
People bemoaning K&N's etc, MAFs are cheap but don't over oil your filters! That part should be clearer for people!
Spend money on suspension, tyres, brake pads, maybe a GT3 master cylinder and some driver training!
Lighter weight also helps, plenty of savings to be had. Lighter seats, lighter exhausts (get rid of the massive stock mufflers), forged wheels etc.
Just drive it and maintain it right
My experience is standard but there’s always a compromise
remove weight where you can add an xpipe delete muffles cool and LOUD
add a coil over system and good brake pads
997 airbox 3.6
drive and enjoy
I did the fab speed performance package of upgrades on my c4s. I never did a dyno, but it definitely gained more responsiveness and feels much more awake and perky. It�s genuinely fun to drive both in sound and character. It wasn�t cheap, but it wasn�t $40 grand engine rebuild expensive either.
it definitely helps if you are starting with a healthy drivetrain.
In the end do what makes you happy 😃
the forums are like standing in the middle of the colosseum with a megaphone and asking a question. You will hear all the responses at once and won�t be able to decipher the mad men from the sane.
Great info! My 996 is a 1999 C4, with 204,000 miles��my first Porsche, bought it with 162k 3 years ago. Drove it to upstate NY last summer, also to So Cal in December, ran great! Almost everything you mention has been replaced including IMS. Haven't yet done the fuel injectors, shocks, or the water pump. What is the UAOS? I love the handling of the car, but wish it was faster.
The UAOS is the Ultimate Air Oil Separator. Its is a better AOS than the factory AOS in construction and design. Take a look at the UAOS thread and you will get a boatload of info.
Bottom line is it eliminates the risk of AOS faikure which is common, mitigate the risk of hydralock and intermix, and it allows you to overfill the oil in your M96 which eliminates the risk of oil starvation, as well as smoking if you overfilled the oil. Plenty of other benefits. To out it simply, it's the Swiss army knife of M96 upgrades.
Regarding power increases, I have owned my 996.2 for 23 years and have bolted everything on to it that you can for more performance from intake, to exhaust, to software. The major gains (10-12 hp/tq) come from getting a set of 200 cell cats from a reputable manufacturer. For $2,000 You will feel it.
Sure, you can add headers ($2,000), tune ($1,000), plenum & throttle body ($1,000), and you are looking at $4,000 for another 5-8 hp/tq. Certainly not telling to NOT do it, we all have, but 200 cell cats will give you the biggest bang for the buck.
But pure performance enhancements will come from suspension, brakes and dropping weight which will make your power output feel "bigger" and "better". But remember, you are looking at $5-10k for suspension upgrades, $1-10k for brake upgrades, $3-8k for lighter seats, and $8-10k for a complete exhaust upgrade will save you quite a bit of weight.
No hurry if the car is a keeper. With the exception of making sure the engine parts have been properly refreshed. you can plan a year by year upgrade list. You would be suprised how much you can get done in 5 years time.
Enjoy it. Nothing better than a well sorted 996!
Most importantly, it's important to set the expectations that you won't pick up big hp with bolt on upgrades for an N/A application.
However, you can certainly wake the car up and make it more fun to drive.
I'd start with a BMC Filter, 200 Cell Cats (SOUL, Fabspeed etc) and an ECU Tune (Softronic etc).
I'd be happy to discuss further and put together a package deal for you.
- Alec
[phone removed]
Yeah, the big gains come from increasing your bores and headwork allowing you to use the intake and exhaust enhancements fully.
Fwiw, I plan on getting an elective rebuild in the next few years to boost the output substantially and upgrade the internal engine parts for the next 25 years of enjoyment on the street and track. But in the meantime, I have been refreshing and upgrading all of the bolt-on parts which are usable with the rebuild.
If your 996 is eGas (doesn't have a throttle cable), I suspect the biggest "bang for the buck" mod is a Sprint Booster throttle controller. It does not add any more power, but makes the car a lot more responsive. I put one in my Macan and the difference in drivability is night and day. The same one that fits the Macan also fits the 996. I haven't put one in the 996 yet (the stock throttle response is quite good), but there are posts on RL saying the Sprint Booster on the 996 makes a huge difference.
What's the point? Inexpensive "performance gains" doesn't make sense for a 996. Assuming it's a fun around town car, just throw on a nice exhaust system. The car is perfect as is, just let it growl a bit.
As long as you keep the oem mufflers it's not much louder.
But you get big weight savings with aftermarket 200 cell cats and sport mufflers. Dont remember what the number is but i believe its nearly 40 lbs with the FVD cats and mufflers. Big weight savings with a 10+ hp/tq boost.
Big weight savings as well with replacing the oem seats with GT3 bucket equivalents and removing the back seats. That's another 40+ lbs.
For sure. For a eGas car, you can also go with a good software package that will increase the responsiveness of the throttle. Pretty impressive. Especially on the track when heal toe shifting.
A somewhat cost effective weight loss is using an Anti-Gravity battery. An H7 AGM battery is probably around 50lbs, and a non-AGM H7 is typically around 45 lbs. I think the AG 40 AH battery is 15lbs, so that's about 30 to 35 lbs in savings.
A free (or less) minor weight loss when changing the battery is to use a smaller Interstate H6 non-AGM that weighs 38.9 lbs -- vs around 45 lbs for the original (non-AGM) H7 -- and probably around 50lbs for a typical AGM H7. I prefer non-AGM for durability and discharge tolerance over AGM in older cars like the 996, and non-AGM's are also a bit lighter and less expensive. I've been running the Interstate non-AGM H6 for a couple of years and it's been great.
Best recommendation possible. Before considering upgrades, first make sure you've serviced everything on your 996 to make it as reliable as possible so you can focus on driving and enjoying it.
Best bang for the buck beyond weight reduction are x-pipes and underdrive pulley. If you are in a state that doesn't follow CA emissions, sport cats are also an option. I personally would keep the stock mufflers and just have the Fister D mod done.
Im just recently getting into Porsches, but after my car is fully sorted (2000 C4 coupe manual), my plan is this:
HPS Resonator Delete kit for
5hp
gain, dynoed according to the manufacturer $160
LINK
Flat 6 Motorports ECU Tune,
22hp
, $995
LINK
(Thats
27 HP
for $1200 right there, just under 10% gain and I think worth it)
Also :
AFE Pro Dry S air filter, non-oiled so doesnt mess with the MAF, but washable/reusable, more air flow, $136
LINK
Then:
The Fister mod mufflers, even more flow and sound, accentuating previous mods, maybe a few more HP, $700.
LINK
Add that up and you're at
$2k
for what has to be over
30 hp
. Plus it will sound like glorious and thats half the fun!
Then maybe you add the 200 cell cats, which Im just learning about, sounds like those can be good for 20hp, but $2k+. Or maybe the cross pipes/cats from LN for $1500 for 10HP?
So for $1200 you can "bolt-on" 27 HP in your driveway in minutes, and for for
$4-$5k
, you can bolt on
40-50 HP
.
I dont know, doesnt sound too bad to me. Am I wrong?
I have owned a 1999 996 for over 20 years. At one point, I had both a 6 speed and a tiptronic at the same time. I have every n/a mod that was available 20 years ago (Billy Boat headers & mufflers, high flow cats, Evo cold air intake, IPD plenum, GIAC flash, LWFW). The horsepower gains are not cumulative. I transferred all of the mods from my tiptronic car to the 6 speed car. I hated the way my stock car sounded. The cold air induction and exhaust mods make the car sound faster. The modifications probably added some power....I doubt they exceed 10%. The most noticeable aspect of the modifications are they shift the powerband to higher rpms.
Below is a picture of the X51 power package for our 3.4 engine. Notice how many parts that Porsche had to change to get about 25 extra horsepower.
The only significant horsepower gain for our cars that does not require an engine swap or rebuild (displacement increase) is forced induction. There used to be three options for superchargers (Ruf, TPC, and Vortech). I think Vortech is the only one still available for our cars. TPC offered an aftermarket turbo kit.
My favorite modifications to boost the performance of my car were: Bilstein coilover suspension (PSS9), 997 GT3 sport seats, LWFW, B&M short shifter with Rennline ****, and Momo prototipo steering wheel.
Here is a blast from the past. This was a subject of discussion, as soon as our cars came off warranty..
Supercharged 996 3.4L: A perfect daily d... - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
Hah! The reality is that the 996 is an incredible platform that combines handling and speed. In stock form it has more power we can ever use on the street. Believe me when I tell you that there is no public street in the USA that you can fully use it's power.
As a PCA Instructor and guy that has tracked his car for 20 years, I can tell you that there is NO novice driver that has the skills to use the stock power of the 996 on the track. Forget about the street.
But you can turn the 996 into an incredible driving machine and can carry more speed with suspension and brake work, better tires, and LSD. This will cost you $10k plus, but worth it if you want a "faster" car.
Sure, you can put on a proven set of cats, headers and add a tune and gain 15+ HP/TQ for $5k, but it wont matter unless you upgraded everything in the previous paragraph.
For sure, you can also spend a couple of thousand on the other silly parts that we all do do, but add nothing to power output amd handling. But it will make you feel better.
FWIW, bullet proof the engine with an upgraded IMSB, UAOS and fresh water pump first. When that's done, take a deep breath and think about next steps before you start down the rabbit hole. No question, it's a fun rabbit hole to go down.
Nothing better than a well sorted 996.
I’m known here to some of this group I spent a lot of money on my 996 aero
because I believed it would make my car “better “ in some aspects it did
but return on investment not much
best bang is the Ohlins suspension and fisters with xpipe by far
I bought a much faster car an 11 turbo S and a much slower car 99 Boxster after my 996
I get more 👍 on the 996 I’ve done crazy speed in the turbo but I really am content with Boxster
I really do enjoy the simplicity of it and it’s throwback nature
Lots of great info shared. Especially the last few posts.
I�ve had my Targa for almost 8 years. I didn�t do any engine mods. I believe I have X51 package (no documentation, but all visual parts and stamp on engine number) and PSE. Miles ahead in comfort and performance compared to the my�85 Carrera it replaced. It�s a classic now. Based on its era, it is a very capable, high performance car.
I wanted more comfort, performance and �reliability� and generally more modern platform. Instead of upgrading my motor I opted for a 991.2. Silly fast and super easy to drive. That�s how I upgraded my 996.😎
I�m having second thoughts on selling my 996. It is now a classic, and reading through this thread makes me want to keep it for it�s driving characteristics that can�t be replicated.
I've had a number of newer sports cars, though not newer Porsches, granted. Cars that were quicker (in a straight line), more tech, more comfortable, less rattles etc. Hell my DD is probably quicker to 60 than my 996. I still enjoy my 996 more. The fact that it's not my DD may have a little to do with it, but that doesn't really factor in at this point. There's something about driving an older car, a now-classic, that's as capable as this thing. I love driving it when I can, and that's what matters. There are times I wish it had another 30-40 rwtq below 3500 rpm (I grew up drag racing), but that's really only just from a stop. Once up to speed, it's easy to shift into the power band and have plenty of fun, especially in the corners, which is the point of this car. The motor likes to be revved high, so it's not a big deal to stay in the mid-high rpm power band longer than what may be advised in a lot of other cars. I've done light weight wheels, coil over suspension and will do a few other weight reduction upgrades. Aside from that, I may do a ring/pinion change so the gearing makes it feel like the car gained some torque along with keeping shifts in the hill country more between 3 and 4 (straight shot), and less between 2 and 3 (diagonal), and then possibly an LSD. That'll probably be all that it needs, honestly. Absolute blast on the street.
I have thought many times about getting a second gearbox for a shorter track application. But from a pure street application, it does make quite a bit of sense if you want a more responsiveness.
But from a handling standpoint during braking, in lousy road conditions and during acceleration, getting an LSD is a very worthwhile upgrade over gearing changes. It helps to keep it planted.
So many great words in this thread.
These cars are at the age where restoration and rejuvenation should be top of mind, and that�s where your best performance improvement is most likely going to come from. My car passed a PPI well when purchased it last fall. New suspension, water pump, thermostat, tires and high quality fluids later and it feels really, really good on the road. You�ll enjoy the process if you love the platform as much as the rest of us!
We only have 91 Octane gasoline available in my area. I buy a 20 buck bottle of booster juice now and then.
I don’t know if it actually does anything but it’s way cheaper than upgrading to a 996 GT2.
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