987 exhaust tips help!

Hi any one change out the tips on Cayman 987? Looking for some advice on changing . I started removing nuts and bolts which I think need to be removed but got a bit stuck on the muffler clamping sleeve. One nut started to loosen but the second is stripped. Thinking of drilling out if I can get to but cant find new bolts anywhere only the whole assembly fo about £55 which seem excessive just for a new nut and bolt. I guess they do not have to be held both sides as can’t get to the back so assume only the nut front needs to come off? Also any advice on getting the old tip out much appreciated. How much do I need to disassemble? I have taken a couple of pictures with bolts I think need to come off.

In order to replace the tips you pretty much have to remove on bank of the muffler so it is pretty involved. As for the stripped nut, can you replace with a nut and bolt from a hardware store?

Yes was thinking the same in regards to the stripped nut. In regards to the muffler are you saying take wheel off and remove rear section and taking of whole back section/ muffler?

It’s a “ Hail Mary “ pass but….This will work best with standard vice grips if you can find a way to get them locked onto the stripped nut. You could notch the protruding thread, use a flat screwdriver in said notch and work them against each other. You can try needle nose vise grips but they will be less effective in this process. You might consider adding heat to the assembly with a torch, but that’s completely optional . If this fails you can take wedges out with a dremel cutting wheel till it yields.

I didn't need to loosen a muffler bank, I just loosened the muffler mounts and used spreader clamps to pry apart the mufflers enough to remove the connector. Btw, there are sockets specifically for removing rounded bolts. That might work.

Dremel not a bad shout!

If they are loose you can probably get it off and drill it/ cut it off the car. Loosen the clamps where you can and the mounting brackets above the exhaust . I believe the clamp bolts are carriage bolts with a square part that fits into the clamp so you don't have to hold the other side. Spray some penetrating lube in there asap. You can flip these around and make them into spreaders..... https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-ratcheting-bar-clampspreader-64154.html

I agree with Boris. Looking at those pics, the corrosion is so entrenched I don’t think any amount of coaxing will convince that nut off of that bolt. But always start with the easiest, least destructive method and advance from there. Soak the nut and bolt in some penetrant, apply heat and try the stripped nut extractor socket. Failing that, then move on to the Dremel to cut or grind some notches until it yields. Wear safety glasses!

Thank you. Have tried lots of wd40 . Also used special sockets for rounded of bits but stuck solid. I think I will have to cut it out will order some metal bits for my dremel . I have some of the clamps that I can potentially revers to use as spreaders. is any one able to advise which nuts ( and total amount) that have to come off before attempting to spread?

WD 40 isn’t an adequate penetrate, in this case I don’t think a better one is going to help now, but it might have from the start.

What you thinking instead of wd40 ?

A penetrating oil which WD 40 is not. There are many on the market ranging from inexpensive to why so much? One such example, lower end price. Lucas Oil Products Penetrating Oil 11oz

I’m a fan of Kroil ( Kroil - The Best Penetrating Oil, Degreaser, and Fuel Additive ) As for removing the tips, I find it’s easier to remove the one of the mufflers by removing the wheel etc but if prying open can work that’s definitely easier.

Kroil , PB Blaster , or Knock’er Loose.

I’m going to put some Kroil in stock, I’m not impressed with PB blaster it maybe it’s just me.

I have used PB, it works pretty well. The key is that it needs to sit for a while... I usually spray and leave it for a few hours if I can. I may even re-spray along the way. Project Farm did a test and found that Seafoam works better, so I tried that. It worked well, too... maybe a little better than PB, but I haven't had it long enough to really know. It's no worse than PB in my short usage. Never used Kroil but have heard great things about it. I keep forgetting to get it - threw it on my wishlist for now, so I'll get it eventually.

Ok thanks all, can’t get some of these in the UK so will source a good local market alternative.

Picked up a couple of cans of Knock’er Loose on recommendation before starting on the front end of the 2008 GL320. (6 years in IL salt) I think it works a little better the PB Blaster . As always you need to apply and let sit than reapply. If you know you are going to start a rusted project give everything a spray a week in advance and again the day or two before starting. If you can get the part hot and carefully spray the inner part, out to the threaded joint. Contracting the inner part helps draw the fluid into the thread. If you don't want to strip the part of break a stud, turn it a little and respray, then turn the other direction. Once you get to two or three revolutions, try working some "never seize" on to the exposited threads each time. As you back over the never seize you will help reduce friction and greatly lower the chance of stripping or breaking the part.

I would only add, use only the force necessary to move the nut. If you get on any assembly like that and go all Arnold Schwarzenegger on it, you increase the odds of breakage or problems.

+1 for the clamps / spreader. I actually used these (from HF) to replace the tip with the Fabspeed x pipes. If you are lucky, you may be able to spread and may not need to loosen the bolts? Try to spray some PB PB Blaster through the gap as you move the tip up / down (if possible). And as others suggested, a nut / bolt extractor and/or a vice grip and/or a torch and/or cutting. See if one of your buddies has a set of nut extractor or just buy a set?

Thanks everyone, I have nut extractors even they stripped one of the bolts. Will get some penetrating oil also and give it time to work

I'll just comment - my mechanic - who basically takes care of his boss's race cars - when I asked if he could install the S tip assembly on my non-S Boxster , took it in the back, put it up on his lift, was under it for about at most 10 minutes, and then was lowering the lift and handed me the old one. No charge. I'm sure there is a trick to it he's learned doing quick swaps on the bosses race cars, I'll have to ask him. BTW - I believe it involved loosening the large clamps that hold the end caps on the muffler bodys so the body could be turned.. but that's just a guess. I'll try to remember to ask next time I see him.

Hi if only I knew how he did that. I will have a look at the weekend. If you could ask that would be great.

No understood, I think when you do it would be useful for the forum, if he has a hack to get it done quick could help the next person who undertakes.

I can't remember all the / exact bolts but I think if you loosen all of one side then a few on the other side, you should be able to "slide off" the old tip by spreading two mufflers...for a Porsche expert with a power ratchet, yes, I can see why this is a 10 min job

I wish mine was a 10 minute job, going on day 5 here. Broken bolts, stripped nuts, etc. What I was hoping would be done in an hour is now testing my sanity!

Damn...I feel you...helped my buddy replace his exhaust system / muffler (FVD) and 5 exhaust flange bolts took less than 5 mins yet that one bolt took 2 days to cut and drill out (we took some time though)...... Looks like you got the header bolts out without any issues??? maybe a good time to torch that thing

Getting the broken studs out was easy by using a 1/4" bit extension and a 5lb hammer. Just bang those puppies right through from the thread side. If it wasn't for the one O2 sensor not budging and stripping, I would have been done on Sunday. If my stripped bolt socket I got today doesn't work, it's off to take it to a muffler shop to get torched and removed.

Totally off topic for your post - but the red edge on your rims - painted or the plastic edge guard things. If the edge guards - whose and do you have a web-link? I love how those look on your red car. And the rest - damn, things haven't gone well for you.. the O2 sensor is really a PITA..

If all else fails AeroKroil. It’s truly in a different class. And sometimes Supco Rust Buster the day before if the corrosion is truly gnarly. I’ve had many a beer in thanks to a few sprays from my can of Kroil . It’s expensive, but a can lasts a long time.

Never had that issue on the Porsche, but this is exactly how I've used PB blaster for the purpose noted by the original poster and it has worked every time.