24 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBroken Lower Deflection Roller Bolt - Removal Assistance
Leading reported evidence
Use small
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I had a similar issue on my old Cayenne, used a small
Leading evidence: 'Use small' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'cv axles' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair hole' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
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Suspected cause
As for dropping the engine to an angle of 45 degree, that seems pretty steep and would put too much stress on the transmission mount and probably the CV axles.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I�m hoping there is a way to support the engine, even if it�s at a 45 degree angle, just to repair the hole.
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Suggestion
You could likely find one used for a reasonable price.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Used a vacuum bleeder, but it would t pull more than 15 inHg of vacuum, it held the vacuum so I don�t think there is a leak.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
cv axles
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Identified cause
1
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suspected cause
As for dropping the engine to an angle of 45 degree, that seems pretty steep and would put too much stress on the transmission mount and probably the CV axles.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
24 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
So a little quick backstory this references item 8 on the attached photo (from Pelican Parts). The lower deflection roller decided to end it's existence and I had to replace it, the tensioner roller, and drive belt. This appeared to go without a hitch. Now, I'm not sure if I torqued the bolt for the lower deflection roller to the wrong amount, the bolt was defective, or it was the incorrect part (I copied the wrong part number and apparently there is a different part number for the Tiptronic cars, mine is a 6 speed). Maybe it was a combination of all these things, but the bolt sheared itself flush with the block, and I attempted to extract the bolt with no luck. There is a little bit of the bolt material remaining in the hole.
I have lowered the engine as far as it will go without removing the subframe, but I still need some room to get at straight angle to drill out the rest and install a helicoil.
My question is, can I lower the engine any further, supported of course, with out having to go through the entire engine removal process? I need 2-3 more inches and just long enough to tap the new threads.
Picture, from Pelican Parts, I have not attached my own, since the embarrassment of its current condition would be too much. Again, only dealing with item 8.
So this is a new bolt you just installed...? Hopefully with no lock-tite...? If so then bolt might come out easy. Is there enough meat left to grab with a vise grip..?
If not,,,Best way for now seems to weld a nut on the end of broken bolt and see if that will back it out... Drilling/helicoil is last resort imo....
There is not enough material left, and welding is not in the cards. I�m hoping there is a way to support the engine, even if it�s at a 45 degree angle, just to repair the hole.
Justin, sorry to hear that happened to you. I found this tool (angle drill), when I was researching how to deal with a similar problem. I hope this helps. Good luck.
https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Milwau...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
*Edit* What
Mfletch
Said.
I had some bolts snap on a BMW water pump job and borrowed a right angle drill get the old bolts out.
Sorry for the tiny pics but these were taken over 20 years ago with what was then a high tech Sony. I'm sure camera and drill technology has improved since 2003.
If you find a small enough right angle drill, and grind out a proper size drill bit, you are not going to be able to tackle that job. The clearance from the head of the bolt to the car body is 4 inches. As for dropping the engine to an angle of 45 degree, that seems pretty steep and would put too much stress on the transmission mount and probably the CV axles.
1. Try tig welding a nut to the end of the broken bolt (beg, borrow, pay someone)
2, Or remove the engine.
I had a similar issue on my old Cayenne, used a small
90 degree headed drill with a reverse threaded drill bit and finally the bolt extractor.
Was a bit of a pain but it worked.
Good luck.
There should be plenty of room for a right angle drill. The bolt sheared off even with the block.
I would also try an easy out, before you overdrill and helicoil.
I've sometimes had good luck with a small sharp punch and hammer. If you have enough room to get the punch on the edge of remaining bolt shank and tap/turn it out little by little till you got enough to grab with vise grips...
Looks like the best course of action is goong to be lowering the whole engine. That being said, what can I leave connected, assuming I support the engine/trans assembly with a suitable jack and only lower it enough to fix the threads?
Find a skinny right angle drill. My cordless one is 4 inch (where it turns 90*) so that is no good. My air pneumatic right angle one is 3 inch, so that might just work. If you decide on engine removal, find other things to do while the engine is out, really out. AOS, coolant tank, CV boots, RMS, front seal, alternator, starter, even the spark plugs are easier with engine out.
Back in the day I recall a small 90 degree adapter that fit into a regular drill. It had a hex chuck but drill bits of that type exist. Beats dropping the engine.
Hey Justin, sorry to hear about the dilemma.
One possible drilling solution would be an aircraft mechanics right angle threaded drill. They have an extremely narrow head and are pretty good for precise drilling. You could likely find one used for a reasonable price. The threaded bits are dirt cheap and come in a variety of lengths and sizes. I�ve used them in very similar situations. To me this is easier than TIG welding in a very tight spot as well, or dropping the engine.
Aircraft Spruce and Specialty has new drills about $250 or so. Search right angle threaded air drill.
Good luck with the repairs.
Here is the picture of a car in my garage, right now. Clearace of maybe 9 cm.
Don't even get me going on the level of negligence this last mechanic did.
I feel your pain on clearance. I also found a random bolt hanging out by the back side of the alternator, but the third bolt was properly installed. Who knows?
Good news, utilizing a transmission jack on the transmission and both a regular floor jack and engine support on the engine, I was able to lower the engine enough to get the hole drilled and re-tapped.
In search of ways to make the process quicker, I still had to remove 95% of what was required to just drop the engine. Things still connected are the power steering lines and the fuel rail. I also did not drain the engine or transmission oil, just coolant.
Tomorrow is a new day, and hopefully I get to complete reassembly.
Well, the motor went back up, but the 24mm bolt on the tensioner would spin when trying to release all the tension. So I have reapplied Loctite, retorqued, and am waiting for it to fully cure. For some reason, the 6PK2115 belt doesn't seem to fit, I'm hoping to get it done today, but will move to a 2135 belt, since some seem to have had success with it.
Might want to spray the mechanism in tension arm with wd40, and work it back and forth. As it commonly seizes up only allowing partial movement of the arm. Once its freed up its range gets increased... When arm is free you don't need Hercules force on tension arm to move it sufficiently.
Sprayed the arm with liberal amounts of WD-40 and it helped.
If I could weld I would try it.
In other news, got everything back together but ended up buying a new belt that is the stock 2115 length and it went on with minor issue.
Now to burp the air out of the coolant. Used a vacuum bleeder, but it would t pull more than 15 inHg of vacuum, it held the vacuum so I don�t think there is a leak. Maybe just leftover fluid somewhere.
The clutch pedal now has a sticking feeling towards the top of travel.
Does it need to be bled, since I removed the slave cylinder when lowering the transmission? The clutch action was smooth prior to this �event�.
