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YOUR RESEARCHAC Condenser replacement questions
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Clean left in place, the condenser
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Left in place, the condenser was cleaned with brake cleaner to remove any oily contamination.
Leading evidence: 'Clean left in place, the condenser' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean left in place, the condenser' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I had a new one fitted when the car was at OPC for an airbag fault repair!
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The new condenser was fitted with blanking plugs (2) in the connectors.
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The new OEM Porsche condenser was painted satin black, the non-replaced condenser silver.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I read that maybe I can get a few drips out of the old condensers to lubricate the o-rings, but the system has been empty for a long time and my local garage did do a nitrogen/air leak test recently - is it possible there won't be any oil in them?
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Suggestion · Original poster
I read that maybe I can get a few drips out of the old condensers to lubricate the o-rings, but the system has been empty for a long time and my local garage did do a nitrogen/air leak test recently - is it possible there won't be any oil in them?
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Hi all,
I'm replacing the condensers on my C4S because there is a slow leak. The system has been empty for well over a year I think.
I already have a mesh on the grills.
Here's what I have bought and is ready to go on:
- two condensers (carparts4less);
- a new dryer/desiccator;
- new o-rings for the above two items.
Here are my questions:
1) Can I paint the front of the condensers black without affecting their performance? What paint should I use? I ask this because I assume I'll be able to see shiny silver through the grills otherwise.
2) Does it matter the order I replace the desiccator versus condensers?
3) I don't have any pag oil to hand. I read that maybe I can get a few drips out of the old condensers to lubricate the o-rings, but the system has been empty for a long time and my local garage did do a nitrogen/air leak test recently - is it possible there won't be any oil in them?
4) Is 15g of new oil per condenser about right for the new condensers? Will this not get added when I get a re-gas done or do I need to manually add it when fitting?
5) If I do need to buy PAG oil, is this the right stuff?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184567696098?hash=item2af9178ae2:g:71wAAOSwgq9iyoKp
6) Does a different amount of oil need to be added for the re-gas given the system is empty?
Cheers!
Paint them black - no problem.
For what its worth, just put any sort of lube on the o-rings, you're only talking a midge's gonad's worth.
Doesn't matter what order you fit the parts.
Pag oil gets added on the regas to a spec, don't add any yourself.
:thumbs:
Painting the condensers is OK.
I had a new one fitted when the car was at OPC for an airbag fault repair!
The new OEM Porsche condenser was painted satin black, the non-replaced condenser silver.
A year later, the original, silver condenser started leaking.
I decided to do the replacement myself and bought the new condenser from ECP.
The new condenser was fitted with blanking plugs (2) in the connectors.
Left in place, the condenser was cleaned with brake cleaner to remove any oily contamination.
Plugs removed and the connection faces masked off, prime with etch primer aerosol.
After drying, aerosol apply satin black. Remove masking and fit.
I painted mine front and back because the OEM was painted all over.
4 years later, they both look good and are virtually invisible behind the bumper.
1 / A cheap can of spray black paint is fine , it won't affect the cooling in any way .
2 / Replace condensers first .. the last item you replace is the desiccator .You need a vac down not too long afterwards .. leave it a few days and the dryer will absorb the moisture in the system there by reducing the point of replacing it ..
Moisture in an A/C system will combine to produce an acid that will eat the system from inside out over time .. hence a vac down asap after fitting .
3 / Buy some Pag oil .. Pag 46 as per your link is fine .. a screwdriver in the oil then dribble over the seal then fit .. Pag oil reacts with the O ring seals and makes them swell up .. its this that gives a good solid seal .
It's also why you can't reuse an a/c seal .
4 / 20 G of oil per condenser is the norm .. if a good system that still has gas in it i would drop to 15 per as i don't know the amount in the system but an empty one that has been for a long time .. 20 per condenser .
5 / yes.
6 / 10 G of UV . Ultra Violet dye .
The amount here is 50 Grams .. that's 1/4 of the total amount .. do NOT go above that .
Figures based on an empty system that has been this way for a long time .
A long vac down time is also recommended .
Thanks all for the replies.
I didn't get to this last week and I can't be bothered to melt outside this week, so I'll probably get on it next week.
The system has been empty for a long time, and it went in for a nitrogen/air leak test too. So I guess it's "super empty".
I did have a question about this and the oil...
When a garage does a vacuum test and sucks everything out, do they also remove all the oil in the system? Likewise, when I go to get a re-gas will they add pag oil as part of the gas filling?
I read somewhere that an empty (I read that as brand new) AC system in the 996 needs 195ml of oil. I guess that must weight 200g and that's where you got your 200g figure from?
So given I'm going to put 40g (total) in the condensers, is it the case that there will still be ~150-160g of oil in the system right now, or is it the case that the garage must add 150-160g oil when I go and get it filled up? :? :?
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