New Pioneer double din install + wireless charging

I just installed a Pioneer SPH-DA360DAB with integration into the factory Bose system. Also wired in a hidden wireless charging coil under the cubby hole above the AC control panel. It was all a bit of a faff but worth it! I am having an issue with the dimming function though. I initially wired the illumination wire to the blue/grey on the cigarette lighter but when I turn the lights on the headunit jumps between Day and Night illumination really quickly continuously. I then wired to the blue/grey wire of the central locking button but when the lights are off the headunit dims the display and goes to Night illumination mode and when the lights are on, the display brightens and goes to Day illumination mode. I tried connecting to the blue/grey wire on rear heated screen button and the same thing happened. For now I've turned lighting detect off. Has anyone else experienced anything similar or know of a way to fix it? Is the only way to wire it to the light switch? For anyone interested, this is what I used for the wireless charger: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394081470245 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384819436790

The led dim bridge is located in the fuse box panel at position BS 5/2. On the carrera it's a Grey/Blue/Brown wire I believe. You can trace this up and jump from another plug behind the panel, or run a wire and use a spare slot in the plug.

I've got the same Head unit and intend to install in my 2003 Convertible what kit did you use for installation. Also any other info would be much appreciated.

Great thanks! I will give that a go.

Thats a nice surround...which cage/fascia did you use? Regards K

My car had didn't have PCM but had CDR-23 headunit and Bose. This was the facia I used: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/37343200...en:996&hash=item56f24830b7:g:EuYAAOSwwBhbokx8 Fibre optic MOST decoder (if you have the upgraded audio system / Bose system): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153514798436 FM antenna adapter: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281199935914 DAB antenna: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373390566027 I was going to use a more conventional DAB antenna like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133844447947 but found that it would have been a lot more effort in removing the A pillar in a Targa. So I managed to fish the DAB antenna cable down through the alarm LED location on top of the dash. I also disassembled the Pioneer plastic GPS antenna housing and removed it completely so that it would fit in the stock GPS antenna location. The Pioneer harness plugs into the factory ISO harness but there are some additional steps. There's no switched live in the original stereo loom so I ran a cable to the fusebox can connected to the Telephone fuse using a fuse bridge. Wire the handbrake cable to ground to fool the headunit that the car isn't moving.

It's a Metra fascia kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/37343200...en:996&hash=item56f24830b7:g:EuYAAOSwwBhbokx8

Thanks On the top bit is the fascia and cage 2 parts. Looks like one part - but i would know how that could work for getting the head unit in and out etc

One part. The headunit screws into the fascia and the fascia screws into the radio frame then you can install the radio frame in the car. Here's the instructions: https://images.carid.com/metra/items/pdf/99-9605b-installation-instructions.pdf This video was useful too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7FWd_gPaXuw&t=1384s

I've just done exactly the same as you a couple of weeks ago. I need to go for phase 2 soon which is to wire the mic, fit a handbrake defeat (I read that wiring it to ground wasn't enough any longer - does doing this allow you to use the keyboard in, say, google maps?) I also found the same issue with illumination. It is because the illumination cable is supposed to be 12v high when the lights are on, however it is a variable signal based on the dimmer setting (rotary control above the tachometer), and even when set to full it probably isn't just a plain 12v - I need to get the meter on it to check. The recommendataion is to take this from somewhere else, but again I haven't figured out where yet. Out of interest how did you mount the plastic double din housing to the car? did you drill the dashboard insert and screw it in like in the video you link? That's what I ended up doing but it ended up with a bit of movement as it's effectively hinged off those two screws.

Yep, the handbrake cable connected to ground does work. I tested search and Waze and it allows me to use the keyboard whilst driving. Yes, I drilled a couple of holes in the dashboard insert and found there was a tiny bit of movement but I glued a couple of thick rubber tabs on each side of the Metra housing to effectively stop the rotating movement and hold it in place. I can't remember exactly where I stuck the tabs but it should become clear when you have the unit out. It's solid now. I installed the mic into one of the blank buttons on the dashboard. I've not yet attempted the illumination cable again but I want to get the installation perfect so will do at some point.

Thanks a lot for the detail. Would love to understand how you did the induction charging? Was it as simple as gluing the coil to the underside of the cubby? I worry about heat and detaching over time...

FWIW I recommend the ESR mounts, which have really strong magnets, & can charge wirelessly. Either: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ESR-HaloLock-Magnetic-Wireless-MagSafe-Black/dp/B094QR2BQL OR: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ESR-HaloLock-Detachable-Charging-Wireless-Black/dp/B097BGJP7Z For a neater look, the front part can be removed from the ESR ball & swapped onto any other 17mm ball mount. For example the Rennline exact fit: https://www.rennline.com/exactfit-magnetic-phone-mount-sku-pm01-08/ Alternatively, there is a chap on Rennlist who has started making a custom ball mount that fits over the hazard light trim. https://www.rennclassic.com/product-page/hazard-trim-phone-mount-bundle

I was going to glue it but found that, when I was testing the charging and positioning, duck tape was more than strong enough. I used a long piece wrapped around the sides and over the top so should be durable enough.

I was going to glue it but found that, when I was testing the charging and positioning, duck tape was more than strong enough. I used a long piece wrapped around the sides and over the top so should be durable enough.