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YOUR RESEARCHDIY vs Shop: Rotors + Pads + Fluid flush + Suspension Upgrades
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Use anti-sieze)
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The changeover was a piece of cake seeing as I�d done the others just a few years earlier (and I used anti-sieze).
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Suggestion
Since both of the setups I did lowered the car significantly, I won�t recommend either for you.
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Suggestion
You shouldn�t need a flaring tool or replace any hard lines for a rotor replacement, pads and fluid flush.
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Suggestion
My '99 is climbing up the 90k mark (93) and I'm going stock, and plan on replacing the front/rear suspension parts along with the shocks and mounts, all in one go.
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Hey all my '99 needs new rotors and pads and it looks like its been almost 4 years since the brake fluid has been flushed.
At the same time, the suspension is feeling old and tired so I've been thinking about replacing with H&R Street Performance Coilovers and H&R Sport Sway Bar Kit.
My question is, this seems like a lot of work to do. I'm fairly handy and have done a bunch of work on the car already but wanted to get you guys to chime in on recommendations of doing it myself vs shop in terms of difficulty, time and cost.
Thanks all!
It's not difficult, just a lot of work, but fun and relaxing. Can get annoying if you encounter one or more seized bolts, but that risk is always there.
The hardlines from the brake line to the calliper are likely to be rusty and/or seized, so might be good to invest in a flaring kit & cunifer brake line.
I DIY'ed it and would do it again.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/996_tech.htm
lots of great DIY directions and instruction.
Brakes are easy to do�you�ll need help. Review the bleeding sequence before randomly starting to bleed the calipers. You shouldn�t need a flaring tool or replace any hard lines for a rotor replacement, pads and fluid flush.
Yep the bleeding brake part and replacing rotors, etc seems straightforward. Good tutorial on FCP Euro also. My worry is more around the suspension. Seems like you need ways to compress the components to remove them and then to install them.
You won�t need one. No need to disconnect the lines.
I find the rear shocks to be a little more difficult than the front.
The h & r use the stock top mounts so you will need to transfer those over.
A borrowed compressor from auto zone can do it.
If you remove the entire strut, you can bring it into a shop and have them compress the strut and swap springs of shocks. You can also purchase a complete strut for installation. More expensive but less fuss. Make sure you replace the bearing plate on top. The rubber breaks down.
And you will need a ball joint removal tool to separate the strut from the control arm to be able to get the strut out.
Even decent quality strut compressors cost less than an hour of tech time. There aren�t many tools that don�t pay for themselves in a single use, presuming your time is suitably available.
Cunifer is copper nickel ferrite Brake Line, and you'd need a Flare kit to get the nuts on. However, I misread and see Brake lines/ hoses aren't on your list.
If they've never been done you're looking at 25 year old bushings. So, yes.
I second the suggestion to use Auto Zone for the spring compressor. You can get a professional quality tool which makes the task easier and much safer. You pay them for it, and they give you your money back when you return it, so it's essentially free.
^^^ This^^^ I�ve done mine twice - The first time > to Bilstein B8�s and H&R sport springs. This necwas tough because it was a Midwest car and a few of the bolts were heavily corroded and difficult to remove. In addition, I also did the front wheel bearings and a few other small things. It was a big/time consuming job but certainly not undoable. After 2 or 3 years a great deal on a lightly used set of KW V3�s became available so I grabbed them. The changeover was a piece of cake seeing as I�d done the others just a few years earlier (and I used anti-sieze). Good luck and take your time (helps to have a garage to work in) ** Don�t forget you�ll need a good alignment when you�re done.
Thanks all! And thanks
@dporto
you guys have given me the confidence to do it. I've got the garage space to do it so can split the work up into a few days.
Now for the harder question, what suspension setup do you guys recommend? I'm not really looking to lower the car (maybe .5" if I have to) and not planning on tracking it. I'm really going for the best handling and ride. My thoughts on H&R were that it seems right in the middle but upon closer inspection, looks like it lowers the car by an inch.
I have a european car and koni sport active dampers. Kept the original springs, really happy with the setup for street use.
Keep in mind that simply replacing old worn stuff and a proper alignment already tightens things up significantly.
Since both of the setups I did lowered the car significantly, I won�t recommend either for you. The ROW M030 setup sounds like it may be right for you!
I would also replace the control arms, tie rods, bushings and mounts. My '99 is climbing up the 90k mark (93) and I'm going stock, and plan on replacing the front/rear suspension parts along with the shocks and mounts, all in one go. It's going to be done in a shop through. I don't really have the right equipment to do it on my own or feel confident to do this even if I had the equipment. I have the instructions though
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