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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHService intervals on 996
Leading reported evidence
Replace fluid
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I have changed the oil out twice since I've owned the car and bled the brake system and replaced fluid.
Leading evidence: 'Replace fluid' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check adjustment; horn' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
So in your case, make a note to have the coolant system flushed and the coolant replaced on your 140th birthday.
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Suggestion
Check lid lock, front and rear; Check safety hook, front lid; Function test, check door lock; Check door and lid tightening torques; Check inner release of luggage compartment (Trunk Entrapment)
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Suggestion
Check lid lock, front and rear; Check safety hook, front lid; Function test, check door lock; Check door and lid tightening torques; Check inner release of luggage compartment (Trunk Entrapment)
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34 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I'm just starting to look for a 996 & I'm not too familar with them as I am with air-cooled Pcars.
What are the major documented service intervals (30K, 60K miles, etc) for 996 cars that PO should have? Looking at 2002 & up C4 & C4S coupes.
MY 2003
Minor maintenance after: 15,000, 45,000, 75,000, 105,000 miles etc. (24,000, 72,000, 120,000, 168,000 km etc.)
Diagnosis system: Read out fault memory
Change engine oil
Vehicle underside and engine compartment: Visual inspection for leaks (oils and fluids) and abrasion (lines and hoses)
Underbody panels: visual inspection for completeness, installation and damage
Power steering: Check the fluid level and bellows
Coolant hoses: Check condition;
Radiators and air inlets at front: Visual inspection for external contamination and blockage;
Coolant: Check the level and antifreeze protection
Particle filter: Replace the filter element
Brake hoses and lines: Visual inspection for damage, routing and corrosion. Checking the brake fluid level
Drive shafts: Perform a visual inspection of the boots for leaks and damage
Tires and spare wheel: Check the condition and the tire pressure
Check the door locks, lid locks and safety hooks of the front lid to ensure that they are secure and functioning properly:
Check lid lock, front and rear; Check safety hook, front lid; Function test, check door lock; Check door and lid tightening torques; Check inner release of luggage compartment (Trunk Entrapment)
Vehicle lighting: Check function; All headlights: Check adjustment; Horn: Check operation.
Windscreen wiper/washer system, headlight washer: Check fluid level and nozzle settings, pay attention to antifreeze protection in the winter months.
Electrical equipment as well as warning and indicator lights: Check operation.
Test drive:
Remote control, front seats, foot and parking brakes (also actuation travel), engine, clutch, steering, transmission, ParkAssist, automatic speed control, heating, air-conditioning system and instruments: Check operation.
Oils, fluids: Visual inspection for leaks
Major maintenance after: 30,000, 60,000, 90,000, 120,000 miles etc. (48,000, 96,000, 144,000, 192,000 km etc.)
Diagnosis system: Read out fault memory
Polyrib belt: Check condition
Change the engine oil and oil filter
Replace the spark plugs
Vehicle underside and engine compartment: Visual inspection for leaks (oils and fluids) and abrasion (lines and hoses)
Underbody panels: visual inspection for completeness, installation and damage
Coolant hoses: Check condition;
Radiators and air inlets at front: Visual inspection for external contamination and blockage;
Coolant: Check the level and antifreeze protection
Air cleaner: Replace the filter element
Particle filter: Replace the filter element
Fuel system: Visual inspection for damage, routing and secure fit of line connections
Power steering: Check the fluid level and bellows
Parking brake: Checking the free play of the parking brake lever
Brake system: Visual inspection of the brake pads and brake discs for wear
Brake hoses and lines: Visual inspection for damage, routing and corrosion. Checking the brake fluid level
Clutch: Check the play and pedal end position
Steering gear: Visually inspect the bellows for damage
Tie rod joints: Check the play and dust bellows
Axle joints: Check play, visual inspection of dust bellows for damage, check screw connections of running gear adjustment facility, front and rear, for secure fit
Drive shafts: Perform a visual inspection of the boots for leaks and damage
Exhaust system: Visual inspection for leaks and damage, check suspension
Tires and spare wheel (collapsible wheel): Check the condition and the tire pressure
Check the door locks, lid locks and safety hooks of the front lid to ensure that they are secure and functioning properly:
Check lid lock, front and rear; Check safety hook, front lid; Function test, check door lock; Check door and lid tightening torques
Seat belts: Check function and condition
Vehicle lighting: Check function; All headlights: Check adjustment; Horn: Check operation.
Windscreen wiper/washer system, headlight washer: Check fluid level and nozzle settings, pay attention to antifreeze protection in the winter months.
Electrical equipment as well as warning and indicator lights: Check operation.
Test drive:
Remote control, front seats, foot and parking brakes (also actuation travel), engine, clutch, steering, transmission, ParkAssist, automatic speed control, TC/PSM switch, heating, air-conditioning system and instruments: Check operation.
Oils, fluids: Visual inspection for leaks
I thought the 60K had us REPLACE the polyrib belt, versus inspect it...
Right now I'm seeing above...
Check lots of stuff (including belt)
Change: oil, spark plugs, air filter, particle filter.
Since my mileage is on the "low" side, I wonder about maintenance for cars that aren't driven much. I have changed the oil out twice since I've owned the car and bled the brake system and replaced fluid. I don't see recommendations regarding changing out brake fluid or flushing the cooling system. Are these services required/recommended? And if so, at what intervals (mileage or time)?
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Yeah, yeah. I already do that (unless the car is under its cover). But,
seriously
, what about bleeding the brakes and flushing the coolant?? Dammit - Tim, Wayne, and others are gonna bust my *** for these questions.
<sigh>
Phil... Phil... Phil. You have to be a glutton for punishment.
Salayc is correct on both counts.
Coolant
- Porsche does say the coolant is "lifetime." However, it may not be a bad idea to change it as part of the 60,000 mile Major service interval. So in your case, make a note to have the coolant system flushed and the coolant replaced on your 140th birthday.
Brake Fluid
- You should change you brake fluid every two years or more often if you track the car and boil your brake fluid.
<Tim thinks to himself> no danger of THAT happening in Phil's car!
Brake fluid absorbs moisture, which in turn will lower the boiling point of the brake fluid by as much as 30%. The excess water moisture can cause valves to corrode and stick. The moisture can create a rusty sludge that can clog the valves and pistons in the brake system.
Check out these links. They are worth 5 to 7 minutes of reading.
http://www.brakefluidtester.com/downloads/clean.PDF
http://www.type2.com/library/brakes/brakef.htm
Phil, one more thing to add to your maintenance list. You will need to replace the luminescent fluid that makes your "little green circle thingie" illuminate because the luminescent properties become diminished after a few years. It requires only two ounces of fluid but the fluid is VERY expensive, currently running about $480 per ounce. The reason the fluid is so expensive is because it comes from Fireflies and harvesting the fluid involves a very delicate and time consuming process to "milk" the fluid from the green Fireflies. Red and yellow Fireflies can not be used for this purpose. You may want to check with Holbert's before you have this done, because the fluid is available only as a "special oder" item.
Tim, what took you so long to respond to my post? Sleeping in?
I'm on Holbert's Special Birthday Maintenance Schedule. See, on my even numbered birthdays, they send me a reminder to bring in the Porsche for service with a special note to "please not forget my wallet." Their whole service department is waiting for me when I get there. They usually have a cake for me when I come in.
Isn't the "little green circle luminescent fluid service" covered under my CPO? If not, the fireflies will be out in a couple of months and it'll be one of my first DIY's. Always appreciate the tips, Tim.
Phil, aim on changing your brake fluids every 2 years, regardless of mileage. As for oil - I tend to do mine annually before it goes away for the winter. You could probably get away with every 2 years.
The biggest worry for your car is just plain old degradation of seals, gaskets, belts and other parts. If Holberts is doing an annual service on your car, then they should be looking out for those things for you.
<now the beating>
Phil, if you were just driving your car like normal people, then you wouldn't have to worry so much about these things. Save us all some strife and worry - go drive your car... just not today because I know it's raining.
Wayne: First, Holberts claims to be checking seals etc. everytime my car is in for service, and all is well.
Second, define "normal." I've always had a hard time doing that.
I took the car out
three times this week!!!
I know that's hard to believe, but I'm trying. It's just that when the Audi roadster top works (and it's been cooperating this week), it's a hoot to drive, too!
Phil
I am nowhere like some of these guys here picking on you... geeesh!
PS. When you say
took the car out
, do you mean onto the driveway, or out out?
Hmmm, not sure about your first comment. Anyway, I actually took it "out out." It was looking for the battery maintainer when we got back to the garage though.
Does the 60k service include fluids? At the very least, I would want to address the engine oil and coolant.
Did your purchase of your car include its service history? I would want to know when the water pump was last replaced. If it's been 5+ years since it's been replaced, or if the history is unknown, then the water pump ought to be replaced when the coolant is drained. It'd probably be a good idea to also replace the thermostat while you're in there, preferably with a low-temperature version.
I'd skip the replacement of the ignition coils unless they're actively misfiring, or if they're visibly cracked and you foresee yourself driving in the rain.
I'd proceed with the replacement of the belt, spark plugs and filters, though.
Before you get the engine oil changed, you should pull an oil sample and send it in for analysis. The objective here is to find out whether your engine oil is being diluted with fuel.
You might as well get these jobs done now, so that you can drive your car without stress. It's up to you whether you should put it off, but I wouldn't recommend it. It's been a long time since its last service.
Congrats on the car! As our cars are 20+ years old at this point I tend to look at service intervals a bit differently. When acquiring a new car, I like to get a baseline for my ownership and that starts with all new fluids. Oil and filter, brake fluid and transmission as well as all filters. From there, I like to go over the car and start addressing things as needed. Pads and rotors, belt and pulleys, coolant and cleaning the radiators....the list goes on. Take it one thing at a time. I would also suggest doing a smoke test to look for vacuum leaks. You can pick up a nice smoke machine on Amazon for $60 bucks. Vacuum leaks can be a silent killer for an engine, fuel economy and really affect how the engine runs overall. There's some plastic bits around the motor that harden and crack over time causing tiny vacuum leaks that will only get worse with time. Address things little by little and enjoy the driving experience! Happy motoring!
Congrats on the low mileage 996. It is an awesome car and we'll worth keeping the parts and service fresh to keep it running strong.
Realizing its a 21 year old car that hasn't been serviced for a long time, if containing costs is important while maximizing service items, the first thing I would do is understand exactly what you are getting for $3,200. What parts will they look at and what parts will they replace for the stated cost. Further, if certain parts aren't covered, how/what cost will be added to the $3,200.
A couple of questions you need to answer on three key engine failure points that are easily mitigated as well as if you got a PPI.
1. Has the IMSB been upgraded? If so, when and with what?
2. Has your water pump been replaced? If so when and with what?
3. Has your AOS been replaced or even ugraded? Of so when and with what?
4. Did you do an invasive PPI with an oil test, drop the sump, cut open the oil filter and scope the bores.
After answering the above questions i would be more than happy to give you a few thoughts on next steps and how to work things into the 60k mile service.
The poster put this question in both 996TT forum and here, so if it's actually a 996TT being referred to the maintenance and possible issues are totally different.
