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YOUR RESEARCHrusted & round
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Use brass manifold nut, readily available, they start
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Suggestion
personally i'd use a brass manifold nut, readily available, they start to squeek when getting to torque, and dont corrode so will come off, of if they get stuck you strip overtighten, strip and tap off they are so soft...
Leading evidence: 'Use brass manifold nut, readily available, they start' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Use brass manifold nut, readily available, they start' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
When re-assembling, use a conventional nut with somw Locktite or a nylock nut.
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Suggestion
Porsche have a nasty habit of using those nuts with the deformable metal centre on their exhaust systems.
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Use brass manifold nut, readily available, they start
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
personally i'd use a brass manifold nut, readily available, they start to squeek when getting to torque, and dont corrode so will come off, of if they get stuck you strip overtighten, strip and tap off they are so soft...
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9 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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A task coming up soon on my TT is an exhaust swap, the pipe should be here in about 4 weeks so today I was having a gander underneath to scope the job out a little. When I bought my car the PPI showed up "rusty heat shields", not an uncommon thing on a 4 or 5 yr old turbo. Looking today it seems the nuts & studs that hold the pipe on are pretty corroded too. They are supposed to be 13mm nuts but a 12mm is loose on these (see pic) an there is a distinct lack of flat sides to the nuts. It's the nuts that are facing the elements that are affected.
Have any of you budding spanner monkeys out there got a technique for getting these things off without knackering the studs? a nut splitter perhaps or cut through with my dremmel? the damp patch in the picture is just a squirt of penetrating fluid.
either that or book it in somwhere......
Porsche have a nasty habit of using those nuts with the deformable metal centre on their exhaust systems. They are more than a pig to get off once they have rusted - in fact the M8 bolt on one of my exhaust clamps snapped even though the bolt was still (just) turning. I suggest the application of penetrating oil a few times over a two day period and still applying some gentle heat. When re-assembling, use a conventional nut with somw Locktite or a nylock nut.
personally i'd use a brass manifold nut, readily available, they start to squeek when getting to torque, and dont corrode so will come off, of if they get stuck you strip overtighten, strip and tap off they are so soft...
nyloks have a habit of melting then getting just as bad...
I fitted my Oettle sports exhausts last week and had a number of nuts which were beyond use. Im too impatient and just angle ground them all off. Pretty quick and easy.
a fag lighter just won't cut it, now 3 swan vestas and a pair of pliers.........
I thought of grinding, or cutting with the cut wheel on the dremmel, just a bit wary of knackerinbf the thread, I gues I can re cut the thread if the worst happens.
You can also get a piece of kit called a "Nut Splitter" I had one but someone borrowed it and never gave it back :evil: Try Machine Mart for one.
The problem will be getting access to all of the nuts, so I suspect it will be a combination of all of the methods suggested
uh:
Good luck. Keep a ready supply of plasters handy too :food:
Regards Big Bob
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