Thoughts on post rebuild cam deviation values?

Hey guys so I just did my first start and drive after a 4-month major service including vario cam replacement. Engine out all that good stuff Below is an image of the post deviation numbers. They're good but I was just wondering what's up with the fact that one is negative 3 and the other is positive 3? Also wondering about the degrees actual and how that relates to deviation Before the rebuild, I was sitting at like -7 and 14� crk oof Attached is also a fun little video for your viewing pleasure. Ignore the activate Windows as I had to screen capture as cap cut forced me to pay and this rebuild's got me hurting LOL First start and drive - You Tube ​​​​​​

what exhaust are you using, please? Sounds nice to me. Sorry I cannot offer any clarification on the deviation numbers

Those numbers r fine. Lots of things effect the timing and thats why it has a decent range.

They also need some time and a properly warmed up engine, and always deviate a bit. So I'd give it some time and monitor how they move over time.

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Hey 996hoby! So the exhaust on this is just a dealer installed PSE exhaust, but it's the weird type... So this one has small diameter bypass pipes (like 1") but the newer style has like 2.5" diameter bypass pipes hooked to the actually switch / valve part. Right now, they are both wired open so in LOUD mode. The actuators for the valves failed long ago so now if I Wana make it quiet, I gotta remove the bumper and stuff. Id ideally like to wire in some after market style electronically controlled valves and also increase the size of the bypass pipes to 2" or so for it to be extra loud you could theoretically get a similar sound by just doing a gundo hack btw And to the other two replies, thanks! I am going to get some warm deviation numbers today and compare to the first start numbers and pray they go down lol

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It's this one! https://ebay.us/m/lFKPl3 I have them on my car, and yes, they are just right. For reference here are my before/after numbers after replacing the cam pads on only Bank 1 (I had a leaky valve cover so both were done at the same time): Before: Bank 1: -7.47 Bank 2: -5.73 After: Bank 1: 4.59 Bank 2: -5.45 Yes, I'm on the edge with Bank 2, but I'll get to that when I can.

I'm going to be doing this soon on my own car, but besides replacing the cam pads and setting the timing correctly, I don't see how you can really adjust anything after the fact. My cam deviations are about -3 and -8 right now. Will be interested to see what they are on the car I am just about done with, could not take them before, but I will take them after the work. This is for the low compression cylinder 5 if you saw my post.

U can clock the cam gear some if u r real careful. It requires u pulling the scavange pump while the engune is in the car. This will compensate for the long chain wear. Its difficult and it may take several attemps before u dial it in.

Good info here guys, and those are the EXACT mufflers on my car! They really are just the right volume. Def loud, but NOTHING like a actually loud muffler. Just right. Many times I find myself wanting more volume, but forget that that is what the right pedal and lower gears are for Also, Paul Waterloo, I will be sure to check out your rebuild Peace

When they re-did the valve covers, did they inspect the vario cam pads and if worn, were they replaced? That plus putting the timing correct is the key to good readings. I just finished another car and they were postive 2 and 3 degrees. I don't know for sure, but I believe they go negative as the vario cam pads wear over time.

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long chain wear is probably the reason why high mileage motors cant get the numbers too move more the 3-4 points

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Sorry for the delayed reply. So oh yeah, all the pads were replaced and the actual actuators were too (slakker rebuilt them). All timing tools were used, etc. Wondering if the positive and negative values are just a computer thing? My dad's boxster 986 also reads - then + just like mine does? Thanks

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Should a properly executed timing procedure not eliminate the effect of (IMS to exh cam) chain wear on timing? Crank pinned, chain properly tensioned, new chain and guides between cams (on a 3.4l) and then using the timing tool in the cams' slots will time crank shaft and cam shafts as specced. It does so irrespectively of the length of the chain driving the exhaust cams. A longer chain will just lead to the tensioner being extended a little further. Inaccuracies in the timing tool, in pin location for the crankshaft pulley as well as deviation in timing chain tension between tensioner not pressurised when timing cams and pressurised when engine is running, are what cause the slight deviations in cam timing observed after having completed the job. With further adjustments as you describe, those slight deviations can be eliminated. A degree wheel on the crank and a dial indicator plus knowing the exact cam timing data would allow to do a more accurate job (or not, when swapping aforementioned inaccuracies for measuring errors...)

On my fairly recent 2003 3.6-3.8 rebuild by Jake, my cam deviation is zero for all pracical purposes, Just a comparison point. No real opinion otherwise.