Ticking + low oil pressure 200 miles after $3.7k service. Shop now wants $10k engine-

I have a 1999 Porsche 911 Carrera 4 (996), 147k miles . I recently took it to a Porsche/euro shop to fix an oil leak and do general service . The total bill was $3,700 . Work included things like spark plugs, plug tubes, valve cover reseal, transmission service, oil service, oxygen sensor, and various seals. They also noted the cylinders looked good on a borescope. After driving about 200 miles , I started noticing: Ticking noise on startup and when warm Oil pressure dropping below 1 bar when sitting in traffic (~0.8–0.9) Oil leaking above the driver side exhaust I took it back to the shop and they told me: The noise is likely lifters The oil pressure could mean oil pump issues They recommend engine-out service with lifters, timing components, oil pump, etc Estimate: ~$9,500 They also mentioned they found a timing tensioner bolt slightly loose and tightened it . (This should stop the latest oil leak but they said they did not replace the crush washer) What makes me suspicious is the timing. The car didn’t have these problems before the service, and now 200 miles later they are recommending a $10k engine-out job . Also on the morning I was taking it back in, the car threw codes: P0410 P1411 P0740 Not sure if related. Does this seem normal for a 996 at this mileage, or should I get a second opinion? Quick update: I used ChatGPT and Claude to help diagnose the issue farther. I have added liquid moly and been doing some light driving. The car is still ticking but the oil pressure seems to be right at 1 now. I cleared those codes and they have not come back. Work Done pt 1 Work Done pt 2 200 Mile Inspection pt 1 200 Mile Inspection pt 2

Ask them how they are going to replace the 3 main chains without splitting the case? They seem not to know how these engines are put together. Edit: Maybe they are going to split the case, ridiculous for an engine with this many miles.

I would not worry about the lifter sound. I would replace (not sure if this can be done on m96, on other Vag engines I have done it) both chain tensioners, the oil pressure valve with the updated part as well as the oil pressure sensor. All these should be diy. Moreover for this car and miles, 5w50 is the correct grade according to Porsche. Mine ( 3.6 .2) uses 5w50 and Ceratec, at 200k miles.

BTW, these prices are ridiculous. 87$ for a spark plug? Not to mention others. Sorry but in the US, Porsche tax costs a heart and a kidney. 8quarts for ATF is correct? At almost 200$ per quart? Am I reading the invoice wrong?

Updated oil pressure valve: Updated 997 Oil Pressure Relief Kit for all M96 and M97 Engines 1997-2008 Oil pressure sensor: Porsche Sending Unit for Oil Pressure Gauge Genuine Porsche 996-606-203-03 996 606 203 03 996.606.203.03 99660620303 | Pelican Parts These are DIY and if you would rather not, the labor isn't extensive. If it were me, I would get a mechanic's stethoscope (inexpensive) to add to my toolbox and use that to probe for the exact location of the ticking.

Check at min 50:00 You Tube

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Yes you are reading it wrong. That is the total price $14.65 per spark plug

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Do you need to pull the engine to replace both chain tensioners, the oil pressure valve with the updated part as well as the oil pressure sensor.

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You do not need to pull the engine to replace the oil pressure sensor or relief valve.

If I recall, Porschetech said the updated 997 relief valve was this intended to reduce noise or some funny cavitation in the M97 and that is won�t improve pressure stability for the M96� someone please confirm or deny. The spring under the relief CAN go soft at high miles, so that may be worth changing, and perhaps if that little piston shows signs of wear you could update it� but my dealer charged just $10 for the spring, so that seems like the low hanging fruit. If the piston moves fine, the spring sets the pressure. edit: ok for $40 just get the whole relief valve kit lol

This is the beginning of the problem: " valve cover reseal," Too much silicone will do it. Putting the oil pump 180 degrees out will do it.

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@Gulfer Yep it is only $40 bucks so telling the truth will not save folks too much money....I only mention it just trying to keep things Technically accurate, but the amount of people that will regurgitate the inaccuracies will overcome the truth...lol C'est La Vie !!

Hi, I wonder if your valve recover / reseal might be a part of the issue? I link You Tube which talks about some pathway that can be blocked up with silicon.

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Which is still too damn much. JMO

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Ok... I saw the total at the end below all the lines and it didn't add up... 2235 for labour though for all these things? Anyway, different market, different prices.

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Agreed on this part. These cars generally don't have lifter problems. Without exaggeration, 99% of the time a lifter does fail, it fails in the closed position, not open. Your ticking is coming from another source. As for oil pressure, is your oil at the very top of the area for the dipstick? These cars are incredibly particular about having exactly ~9qt of oil in them. If your oil is below half on the digital display, top up and observe oil pressure from there. Running the AC brings idle up 100rpm, helping oil pressure at idle, heaven forbid you need to nurse the problem.

The 1999 996 3.4 has an Iron plating on the pistons ( Ferrostan ) that is much more robust than the latter Ferroprint plastic coatings making the 1999 3.4 much less likely to have a ticking/knocking from Bore-Score... And unless the engine hs been tracked/driven hard in the twisties, you likely don't have any bearing damage.. As for the ticking sound on the 1999 3.4 engines I have cured quite a few with cleaning the carbon off the piston tops using the Redline SI-1 fuel system cleaner ... Also some 1999 3.4 ticking sounds have been caused by loose internals of the Catalytic Convertors... A $29 Mechanic Stethoscope can confirm this .. As for the oil pressure, the proper test is to use a manual gauge installed on the engine head port , using a 40wt oil at 90C temp and at 4K RPM should be over 4 Bar pressure ....This is the Official Test but I recommend at 50wt or if climate and driving styles dictate a 10w-60 for Track and Extreme driving styles...it will also raise the oil pressures in all instances and temps....