Leaking power steering rack pipework (Fixed, with how to)

I had noticed I was losing PS fluid somewhere for a couple of weeks but I didn't have any puddles anywhere so couldn't work out where I was losing it. The pump would sometimes make a groaning noise so I immediately topped up each time I heard it. So to yesterday I pulled the 996 out of the garage to find a puddle of green liquid on the floor near the driver side front wheel. I assumed my two jubilee clip hack had finally given up after 11 years of being on but after jacking the car up and removing the wheels I noticed that joint was fine and the wet area was further in. There was nothing leaking so I fired the engine up and as soon as pressure was on the leak appeared on one of the metal lines. I have made a start removing the steering rack, the 4 pipe ends are removed at the steering column end but I had read you need to lower the subframe to get the rack out but it looks like it may squeeze out without doing that if I am lucky, is this the case? I'm also wondering where people had bought their replacement pipes from I see various ones for sale, is there a preferred brand. I was thinking of also replacing any seals or O rings if they are available. I'll post up some pictures once I get chance but wanted to get the ball rolling on ordering the new parts if anyone can point me in that direction?

Copper pipes are available from design 911. Rack will come out at the side, providing you can disconnect the supply and return. Whilst you're under there, check for rust. There's a metal clip next to the rack that attracts debris, on the front face. I also powdercoated all the tank straps, L brackets, ARB and anything else that needed it. Here's the likely rust spot.

Thanks, I spotted Design911 had them for sale, I also found a cheaper place but they are reporting they are out of stock so I have ordered the Design911 ones as I need to get it fixed at the weekend. I also got 10% off with code 911UK09

When I had my fuel tank out a couple of years ago I went around with the POR15 and coated any exposed or rusty metal so hopefully all is good under there. I did notice the ARB was a little rusty at the passenger side so I may remove and clean that up while I am underneath.

This is where the leak appeared, right on the bend of this pipe. I got all the bolts removed this afternoon but I can't get the rack out as the rack mounting, to the right, is hitting the subframe and the steering input shaft, to the left, is stuck behind a coolant pipe. I could drain the coolant and move the pipe out of the way but I would rather not if there is another way to slide this out? i had a nightmare the last time I undid a front subframe bolt when the bolt snapped due to all the crud that builds up inside the hole the bolt threads into, it fills up with dirt like a bucket and jams the threads up. I ended up scrapping the subframe and fitting used one. Any tips to slide this rack out? Also spotted the litronic self adjuster arm was seized, and the plastic mount had come off the coffin arm. I priced a new arm up, £50+ quid, I decided to soak it WD-40 and have a go at releasing the ball joint, worked a treat and has saved me a few quid for 10 minutes work.

I feel your pain, I have the front to refurb soon, going to drop the whole subframe fingers crossed.

I really don't want to drop the subframe, like I say, the last time I undid a bolt the crud that fills up the valley where the threads sit made the bolt snap in the subframe and I had to replace the subframe. Make sure you clean as much of that out before undoing those bolts, I think there are 4 that are in this situation I have been thinking if I can't get the rack out without dropping the subframe or draining the coolant, I'll try to move the rack as far left and right as possible and undo and re-fit each end of the new pipes that way and then it can stay where it is? I have already undone the offside end with the rack while it was connected but I haven't tried the nearside yet, hopefully I can get to them with the rack pushed over as far as I can?

I'm afraid there's nothing i can say that will help .. i drop the subframe when working on these racks .. i wasn't aware that they could be moved out with the frame in situ as i've never attempted it . I would be interested in seeing a picture of it being removed with subframe in as there is nothing so far showing that it can be done . sorry .

I was hoping that wouldn't be the case, I think I have only seen left had drive cars remove the rack without dropping the subframe so I assume it just comes out easier that side with the space being better? I will have a go at getting it out that side this afternoon and if that fails I will try to change the pipes in situ as mentioned above. Last resort is either drain coolant or drop subframe but I would rather not drop the subframe due to my previous experience. I think I was just changing the anti roll bar bushes and due to a snapped bolt it turned into a week long job to source and fit a new subframe.

Had to do mine last year (or maybe it was the year before). I'm only an average home mechanic and I didn't find it that bad a job dropping the subframe enough to get the rack dropped clear enough to change the hard lines. You don't want to be messing with the high pressure fluid lines which I imagine you'd need to do to slide the rack out either side. Mine is a C4 so there was a lot of extra gubbins to remove/get in the way but honestly, the hardest part was getting the bloody union of the rack back together. Felt like several hours of frustration before it suddenly just went in like nothing. ONE THING TO NOTE. lock/Attach something to your steering wheel so it doesn't move/spin freely as it will damage the steering angle sensor and end up costing a couple hundred to then fix.

Yep, I did centre the steering wheel and lock it in position, I then marked the steering shaft spline to the UJ clamp to make sure it lined up again once re-fitted.

Some good progress on the rack today. Spent the afternoon on a Teams call on mute whilst under the car just popping up when required. c: The pipes arrived mid week but I hadn't opened the package yet. When I did they were the usual green painted metal pipes, the same as standard I guess which seem to last 10 years before the coating comes off, until 20 years before they rust through and leak. I decided to prep and paint them to make them last a little longer, just primer and some silver paint in a rattle can I had, which made them look a little better. I also greased under the connector and the threads. I first tried to pull the rack over to the passenger side to undo the middle pipe connector but it wouldn't come far enough to get a spanner to spin on it. So I went back to the drivers side weighting up my options. As mentioned I was scared of the subframe from my past experience so I was favouring the coolant drain. I decided to clamp both sides of rubber hose of the aluminium hose, I used mole grips but would have preferred to use the correct clamps (which I have now bought to add to the tool collection). I lost around a 1/4 litre of coolant, so didn't lose much at all and to be fair I had too much in the header tank anyway, I was running above maximum. After a little wiggling the rack was out, it came out quite easily in the end. I removed the old pipes, gave the rack a good de-greasing and fitted the new silver pipes. As they say, refitting is the reverse of removal. Whilst I was in there I wanted to change the two Jubilee clips for new ones. I removed the old ones and found the ferrule to be still in decent condition. I cleaned to up, re-greased the ferrule and fitted two new clips. This also shows the space you get once you have moved the coolant pipes out of the way. I'm quite happy I didn't have to drop the subframe and removing the coolant hose also took less time. I will need to burp the coolant system again but as there wasn't much coolant loss it shouldn't be a major problem.

Top work as always, inspiring me to get some jobs done. MC