Oil filter canister bypass disable

Anyone know the best way to disable the canister bypass..? And is this a good idea..?

Get the LN Engineering spin on oil filter adapter and then you don't have to worry about it. And, no, I don't think it would be a good idea in the OE canister type filter. Just my two cents...

I believe the reason there is a bypass is because the canister isn't designed to withstand the possible pressure if you did.

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True, the LN spin on adapter is nice, but Ii kind of like the oem canister filter. Others have done it without problems afaik..?

Right now on Sally I have the spin-on filter with LN adaptor ( and also a "sandwitch spacer") because I wanted a place to put extra oil pressure and temperature sensors in the system to hook to AIM Data system... But I have ran Sally for over a decade with the by-passed OEM canister filter. I popped out the by-pass valve/spring/cup and filled it high temp two part epoxy... I prefer the cartridge filter due to more filter area and no cutting open a metal can for inspection.....after 1000's of small and large cuts from sharp edged metal in 45 years working in the Automotive world and Racing world I tend to prefer to stay away when fesibible... Nothing wrong with either one but I do NOT like the OEM by-pass location in the BOTTOM of the canister,period. It is where any metal particles will lay and flow if/when the by-pass opens.. Personally I think a billet aluminum canister with "no by-pass" to fit OEM style cartridge filters would be " IDEAL,", but I don't know "the market" would agree.($$$?)....

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Thanks...!!! Exactly what I'll do. Think JB weld is good to use..?

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Back in the old days when epoxy's were just invented, we used them to strengthen engine block cylinders ( for 6 second Drag Cars) by filling the water jackets around the cylinders with Epoxy.. Devcon A was the go-to Epoxy back then for this purpose.. Epoxy has developed a bunch since then ( and gotten less expensive due to demand), Several Epoxys will perform but my recomendation would be this j-b high temp 550* https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-High-Epoxy-Syringe/dp/B09Q8DQLJ2 EDIT:: Also FWIW ;; There are two by-passes in the oil pressure cicruit that needs to be understood..... The main oil pressure by-pass that is located in the oil pump housing, it controls the oil pressure to keep the pressure down to a safe minimum.. The second by-pass that is located in the oil filter/canister. It "by-passes the oil filter" ie allows un-filtered oil to flow "around" the oil filter.......It's job is to sence a pressure diffferential across the oil filter, and if the oil filter can not flow enough oil to keep the differential low, it will open and allow unfilter oil to flow "around the oil filter" thereby by-passing the filter.. THIS IS NOT A GOOD THING IMHO .. It is only there encase the oil filter gets so dirty it can't flow enough oil, or the filter itself can not flow enough due to design/material... And as far as strength goes, I have seen plenty of metal spin-on filters burst ( especially Fram, some are 3x better like WIX) when the main by-pass sticks, but I have never seen one of the plastic canisters burst under pressure...I don't know how much pressure it would take to burst the plastic canister, but it would be a LOT...

Here is another good solution https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...o-spin-on.html

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Yeah, you�d think if an owner got their filter to that point, they�d deserve the canister to burst and let oil out all over the ground instead of circulating debris throughout the engine. Besides, if the filter was that dirty, and the bypass needed to be opened, would a non-trivial amount of dirt get released anyway? I had always just assumed these bypasses were for very cold engines that were rev�d high.

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ECS Tuning makes such a part for Mezger oil filter housings and for VW VR6 oil filter housings. With the number of vehicles that use the M96 type of filter perhaps they would take it in as a project?

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I also prefer the oem cartridge filter for all the reasons you mention. I will find one of my old canisters and pop the valve out, fill with your recommended epoxy and magnets and call it a day. Thank You...!!! To me, can't see how the spin on adapters are beneficial, other than a faster oil change at the cost of not being able to easily see the filter pleats and a smaller more easily plugged filter media. Just another place for a possible leak. Unless you need an aux oil pressure port for a imsb solution or a oil pressure gauge/etc. With the oem oil pump bypass set @5bar, doesn't seem possible for oem canister to burst at 5bar max pressure the OPB allows. Has anyone ever seen one burst,? seems the polyurethane type plastic is stout and maybe more robust than beer can thick spin ons. The billet canister sounds neat but its mostly bling imo, as the oem one with your bypass delete and your magnets, is identically sufficient imo. The M96 engine isn't my idea of an engine I want to dre$$ up. I'm not one to put lip$tick on a pig and call it Gal Gadot... jmo

I learned recently that Porsche recommends you replace your filter housing every two years or something to keep the bypass functioning optimally? This sounds lame, but it's only $30 and comes with a factory filter element installed already. 99610702055 is the part number. I wouldn't get rid of the bypass on a canister filter, but understand people's reasoning for wanting to.

It�s possible that people who aren�t Porsche experts doing oil changes might accidentally throw out the bypass when they do an oil change and not realize it.

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Exactly !! I have seen it more than once when using "off-brand cartridge filters" . The filters fit too tight and when removing the filters it pops the by-pass out of the canister and is thrown away with the filter...This causes "ALL ThE OIL TO BE UNFILTERED "...This is even worse than having the by-pass in the bottom that opens and allows debris to circulate... I would surmize that more than a few engines have been ruined by this occurance...." Please pay attention to this !! "

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Hi Porschetech3, this isn't exactly what you're looking for, but it's in the neighborhood: URO Parts Oil Filter Cover 996 107 020 55-PRM . Still has a bypass, but the cover is 7031 aluminum instead of PA66 nylon.

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@URO Support Thank you for manufacturing this !! Do you have a Retail link you can post to order this ? I searched the part number but it just pulls up the factory display and specs.. I want to buy one !! I may want to "modify" it for my use , like disabling the by-pass and may even add some ports for oil pressure and oil temp ect ...This is much better than starting with the "sandwich adapter" that places the very small filter way too low/close to the ground...

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Thanks, nice unit. Where do you get them...? How much $. I must be missing something,,, no buy now button on the uro link.

This item was just announced a few weeks ago, so as of now only Rock Auto is listing it. It'll soon be available from a multitude of retailers, please search for " URO Parts 99610702055PRM " periodically. We're looking forward to your feedback!

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@URO Support I just ordered it from link you posted !! I will certainly give feedback on it ...Thank you for supporting our 996 cars !!! BTW : Great price too ! ​​​​​​​

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Ditto. Great ideas, I need an oil port.... Just ordered 1 on rock auto. Last month bought the oem plastic 1 on Pelican with filter for $30. So a nice aluminum 1 for 8$ more seems like a bargain.

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Yeah, I had to buy the LN Spin-on Adapter, then buy the Sandwich Adapter ( to put the oil pressure, oil temp, ect) then buy the shortest Spin-on Filter, and with all that it hangs pretty low and costs $$$. I'm hoping this Aluminum housing is thick enough to easily drill and tap the extra ports straight into it...

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Not familiar with 7031 aluminum, hoping if its not thick enough to support a threaded fitting, can just weld on a bung..?

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Expert welders can weld anything ....I have taken unknown aluminum materials to welders before and they don't bat an eye, they just look at it , grab the stuff they need and weld it ...lol I remember back in the 70's taking a Turbo exhaust housing ( made of high nickle nodular iron ) and a gray cast iron exhaust manifold I had cut the flanges off both and port matched them and fitted them, then took it to Ken Carrol Welding , He used a special alloy rod and welded them together. I raced it for years and it is still together ...lol I have no problem throwing some coin to a welder, Lord knows we need more craftsmen these days and they need to make a respectable living. I would be nice if the housing is thick enough to drill and tap straight into though.. It will need to be index/matched to the engine though...the rotating/threaded connection can end up at of 360* position so it will need to be index/matched to the case..

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I was thinking of doing the same the other day. How do you find the data readings from this spot, and does the sandwich adapter make the filter hang alot lower? Thanks!

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The oil pressure reading is about 15-20 psi "higher" than the reading of the pressure at the port on the head , but pressure drops are just as instantaneous at either place... The oil temperature reading at this location is "lower" than the reading from the factory temp sensor in the Sump, but is " higher" than a oil temp reading at the port in the head ...These different temperature readings represent the cooling effect of the oil in the Sump and also the cooling effect of the oil after it has been through the heat exchanger... Yes, with the spin-on adapter and the sandwitch adapter, the filter will hang lower than is desired...

Yes, port needs to be indexed for sure. Do you think a port in the filter housing used with an accusump would back feed thru the pump when pump momentarily losses its head/prime..? Or would pump act like a check valve sort of..? would accusump back feed head of pump enough to quicken the pumps ability to regain its head pressure faster..?

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Accusump doesn't feedback to the pump, the pump does its thing, the by-pass valve/spring does its thing, and the Accusump does its thing... The Accusump reacts to pressure, just like the by-pass valve/spring . They both are just springs, one is an air spring, one is a metal spring , they both react to a loss in pressure ( or to an increase in pressure).. Oil is a non-compressible fluid ( so it transfers pressure like a solid rod/shaft), but it flows like a liquid. When the oil pump starts picking up and pumping "air" the pressure starts to fall and both springs in the by-pass and in the Accusump start to react at the same time... Placing the Accusump fitting at the oil filter housing will work fine as is where Accusump recommends. .. The Hartech oil pump by-pass housing that has the Accusump fitting welded in is a nice piece for I think $75? , but it is no better than placing the Accusump connection at the oil filter housing. They are both in direct fluid communication to the oil pressure coming out of the oil pump.. The only problem I have with Accusump is that it is "re-active", meaning it re-acts to "air" that has been made it up and through the oil pump.....It is much better to not have the air get to the oil pump to start with, because that AIR does not just dissapear..it will get pumped through the bearings, but the Accusump will keep the "presure up" .and add some oil so that there is not a "long dry spell" in the lubrication flow. I bought one of the first Accusumps ever made back 40 years ago...Some people are just now finding out about them, especially over the pond, but the guy who originally invented it used to go around and sell them out of his truck at race tracks before he got bought out by a bigger company.. In fact I bought a new small 1 quart model just to test with, it is very small and easy to package in a 996 engine compartment ..but it is still just a clever "band-aid" in my opinion , but band-aids ARE useful...lol

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Got mine, seems to be 1/4" thick. Think thats enough to support a tapped fitting...?

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Thanks for making that. I got one from RockAuto. Can you suggest the manufacturer make a version WITHOUT a bypass? I drilled out the rivet, and looked at the spring and plastic filter seat, but haven't figured out the "clogged filter" bypass mechanism. I was hoping to do as the guys here are inquiring about (to keep my IMS chunks in the filter, no matter what!) Paul

Forgive my horrible art skills... After taking my new UroPart housing apart... this is my understanding of the oil canister system. The dark grey is the engine red and yellow is the filter thin black is the housing thick black is the seat that the filter fits onto the thin grey is the spring under the seat. From my rudimentary engineering education, in the event of a clogged filter (causing a higher pressure in the outer section of the canister, as dirty oil is on the outside) I would guess the filter could only be pushed DOWN, separating at the top from engine the oil return sleeve, allowing unfiltered oil to bypass the filter paper (the blue arrow) Replacing the spring with a rigid cylinder (of the same dimensions) would turn this into a no-bypass canister. What do you think? EDIT: My assumption was wrong! I will leave the pic here with red X's over the incorrect parts (so you can see my wonderful artwork), but it is NOT how the bypass works

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Believe your understanding of the bypass mechanism is correct. But.... The spring compresses slightly when installing the filter to keep a slight pressure on filter for a tight leak free seal on top. So not sure if replacing it with a solid piece would be wise.

Interesting. I would have thought that the bypass spring itself includes a valve that lets in oil from the bottom of the canister through to the inside. If oil bypass happens at the top, that�s better because any heavier debris at the bottom might stay there at the bottom.

No, thats not how the by-pass works..The filter doesn't move, when the filter is stopped up or the flow through the filter is not sufficient to keep the by-pass closed, the poppet valve in the bottom will raise up and allow the oil to come up from the bottom into the center of the filter thereby by-passing the filter media.. No need to drill the rivet out. Just take a long stout hook and reach down under the plastic valve and pop it out of its holder...... You then just turn it upside down and fill the "cup" with high temp epoxy to eliminate the by-pass.. Note:: yes indeed you could machine a solid puck of aluminum instead of filling the cup with epoxy .. I just got mine also and it is very impressive for $36 bucks. It appears to be Sand Cast Aluminum with nice machining and very robust , there is over a pound of Aluminum in it..( yes I weighed it on mailing scales).. Yes I think it is plenty thick enough to drill and tap any fitting you want into it...( but you MUST index/match it to the case first and mark the clock position)

Don't forget it still has to spin off...hopefully there is room for the fitting to stay in the housing and spin around - otherwise you will be removing the fitting with every oil change. And if doing that - you can likely expect quick wear and tear on the threads. -Tom

Definitely let a potential welder know that these are 7031 aluminum. https://www.thefabricator.com/thewel...minum-castings

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Thank you Skip! I had it all wrong. I thought the black plastic seat moved on the spring... NOPE! Here is what I think I just figured out (please correct me if I am wrong) The black plastic seat is connected to the bottom of the canister. The metal disc/cup/poppet is riveted to the U-shaped metal bracket, but outside of the black plastic seat. The poppet is pressed upwards from under the black plastic seat by the oil pressure. The spring is resisting that motion (the spring is resting against the underside of the black seat) If the oil pressure exceeds the spring force, the poppet moves upward, allowing the oil (and anything else) from the bottom of the canister into the clean oil circuit. Here are some pics, I hope they will help it make sense. Looking inside the canister with the bypass device removed The black plastic seat that clips into those curved areas in the canister (sorry it is a little out of focus, you will see the detail better later) Here is the plastic seat and bypass device disassembled The poppet (the silver cup) gets riveted to the metal U-bracket, then there is about 5mm of spring travel, and the poppet can move upwards. Here it is assembled in a plastic canister To make a non-bypass canister, I am going to fill the lower edges of the plastic seat with epoxy, and then insert a metal disc (slightly smaller than the cup you see here) to prevent the epoxy from fracturing and entering the clean oil circuit. Use a 1 3/16" socket to reinstall the plastic seat. Here you can see the detail of the plastic seat (that clips into the curved brackets molded/machined into the bottom of the canister. Give it a firm tap. I suppose this would be easy to do with an original plastic canister too. I hope this helps you, What do you think? Paul

The problem with drilling into it, is that your feed line will be getting dirty oil... (the only clean oil is inside the paper filter...)

Hey @URO Support If you can just make a version with a solid (no hole) seat, and eliminate the bypass device, this would be a non-bypass filter canister!

@URO Support thank for confirming the alloy of the aluminum !! @FunWithPaul Yes , Now you have it right... Here is some pics with captions on the "un-by-passed" version.. weight 1LB 0.40 oz made a quick hook tool to pop the by-pass valve out from 1/4" x 1/8" stainless steel strip I had laying on the work table by-pass "cup" filled with epoxy rated to 500*F complete by-pass valve by-pass valve side view sealed by-pass valve re-installed in Aluminum housing... I put a little epoxy on the bosses to make sure by-pass valve doesn't get removed when removing the filter I had to "drive" the by-pass valve back into the retainer, it was a tight fit and no worries that it will EVER come out again !! Iv'e noticed since working with a lot of different epoxies that the longer the handling and full cure time the higher the temperature rating..." quick cure" epoxies don't have the higher temperature ratings of the 4-6 hour handling time with 24 hour full cure times epoxies ...

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Are you worried that using that oil will damage a pressure/temp sensor ? Any oil leaving there going to a vital/$$$ part will get filtered...( If the by-pass is disabled) Also FWIW : the Hartech Accusump System uses the "pre-filter" oil for the Accusump System ...

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@LeonardMot That's a lazy negative thought . I disliked the location of the by-pass valve in the OE plastic housing so much I have I disabled it on Sally over two decades ago ...All the LN spin-on adapters/filters are non-by-pass...IF the by-pass were located in the TOP of the canister I wouldn't bother... I like the thick Aluminum Housing because with a little work it makes a nice package and place to add some Sensors to motor pressure/temp and even add an Accusump if desired ...

Bump. I�m wondering if there�s anyone that has installed their URO oil filter housing cap. I tried to install mine, but it didn�t want to screw on by hand. I lightly attempted to further screw it on with a ratchet, but decided to stop because the required force seemed too high. I didn�t want to destroy the threads on my engine, so I screwed on a spare, brand-new, genuine Porsche cap nearby and it went on easily by hand. I�m not sure if I got a dud, or something.

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No, have not tried it yet. Was setting it up for an accusump for future use. Now you got me wondering if the canister was not for the 996, but another engine. Was listed for the 996 on RockAuto, iiirr there was also something about a Panamera listed that confused me. the URO guy specified that canister also for the m96...? Will try it next oil change. but, no way the threads should be different unless its not for m96...?

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Where did you @Porschetech3 or @FunWithPaul buy the Uro alum filter housing? I tried Rock Auto, no deal. Does it come with a new rubber gasket? Very interested. Thx.

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I remember holding the URO and the OEM plastic unit side-by-side and noticing the plastic cap had much thinner & sharper threads.

Don't know nothin bout this stuff but wouldn't just a really really strong spring keep the valve closed

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Many don't want to use our spin on oil filter adapter, so we have in production now a billet housing that will incorporate a higher pressure bypass valve as well as a really big magnet located at the bypass. We have a similar version already available for models where a spin on oil filter adapter was not practical: https://lnengineering.com/products/p...inum-caps.html These are going through the machine shop now. It's something we started on last year but we have just been too busy to get some of these new products pushed through. If there is enough demand, we can make a version that omits the bypass completely.

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Hi Siberian, the R.A. search feature works better when spaces in part numbers are deleted: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/%C...ter+cover,5561

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I�m very interested!!!!!!

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I literally just ordered the URO off RockAuto, so unless they come back to me with an "oops, sorry", I think they have stock now.

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Hi 996love, our engineers checked several pieces from our inventory, and were able to thread the covers into an OEM housing by hand. Did you happen to lubricate the threads and o-ring with some fresh engine oil? Metal-on-metal threads will have more drag than plastic-on-metal, but some lubricant helps offset the friction difference. Please contact us , thanks! Here's the Rock Auto listing: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/%C...ter+cover,5561

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There is no new aluminum version on the page link . What is the cost, is it available now, etc? Uro makes one that includes a filter. What is your offering? Interested. Curious. YMMV .

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Uhhh, my URO 99610702055PRM aluminum filter canister DID NOT come with a filter. The plastic Porsche oem filter housing from Pelican DOES come with a filter in the housing.

Guys, I am slow on the uptake for this one. Why would someone want to run this on their engine? Just trying to figure out the application/purpose. Its a cool canister. Thanks for an explanation.

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A page from RockAuto--

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Well, guess they owe me a filter, cause they surely didn't include one in my URO 99610702055PRM order. RockAuto Order 278592678 Shipped

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Well, this is a very nice, seems to be high quality, thick/solid/strong housing, that can possibly be drilled and tapped for oil temp/pressure/accusump(?), fittings. And the bypass port easily 'bypassed'.

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Fair enough. Another mundane question. What is the reason/application for bypassing the bypass port?

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When running heavy weight oils some say on cold starts its possible for the high pressure filter bypass to open up(especially if the filter is clogged ) and discharge all the crap on the bottom of filter housing directly in to the main oil gallery, going directly to main bearings. Not good. But more than likely with the frequency we change our oil/filter at, the filter will never get clogged enough to trigger a 'clogged, in bypass' problem (unless the imsb or something else disintegrates completely filling the filter, very unlikely but possible). But suppose heavy weigh oil might trigger a bypass under the right circumstances, and any debris in bottom of filter will flow directly into bearings... Some are concerned that the aluminum canister will burst from high pressure, more than likely never ever happen, probably the plastic canister won't either, unless its been damaged, maybe by a backyard mechanic's channel locks/filter wrench. Also the oil pressure relief valve will also open and bypass high pressure back to sump on that side of the circuit. So, bottom line, many of use will take our chances with no filter canister bypass, thus keeping all the debris//crap/smegma/etc, in the filter, never to leave the filter. Its lots Less of a risk than crap being sent to bearings when in filter bypass, Just like the LN spin on filter adapters don't have a bypass. And those spin on (beer/soup can thick) filters are far less robust/thick than this URO aluminum one, or even the oem plastic one, and with no bypass. Most of the people that don't like the filter bypass have seen trashed main bearings from debris scoring when tearing down bum engines.... jmo

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Thanks @allcool . Very good info. You have me thinking.

Thanks for the heads up about the "filter included" error on the Rock Auto listing, we'll correct it immediately! Tags: 996 107 225 53, 99610722553

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URO thanks for response! You are welcome. Just read the ad. I hope this "correct it immediately!" part goes to RockAuto. Does this change the price for RockAuto? Does the Alum. Cap THEN still have a filter with it? Yes?. No? If not, why not? The (aka) OEM plastic oil cap "kit?-deal? does come with a filter. LN Engineering hasn.t said diddly or posted their rendition details. Just asking pertinent questions.. No offense intended. YMMV

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@URO Support I just checked my Aluminum filter housing also, and just like @996love it will not screw on by hand...was very difficult to start and could only turn about 1 turn before getting impossible to turn ( even with a wrench).. I checked it on 2 different engines... I have already modified/dissabled the by-pass on mine as shown in the pics earlier in this thread... Here are some pics of the measurements of the URO AL and the OEM plastic filter housing... The URO Al seems to be 0.020-0.030 " larger diameter URO AL inner thread diameter 2.954 OEM plastic inner thread diameter 2.929 URO AL outer thread diameter 3.151 OEM plastic outer thread diameter 3.134 @Charles Navarro Me too !! I would be in on the one with the solid billit Aluminum non-by-pass valve.........Nothing is " too good" for our M96 Oiling Systems.. The "epoxy filled cup" will work just fine but I had already been thinking of a solid aluminum puck, glad you are doing it !!

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Just checked URO canister on my 996.2, same thing, won't spin on at all. Well, now that 3 of us have problems its not a fluke 1 defective filter canister,,, thanks guys... Threads are not compatible. Hopefully this was just a bad batch of URO incorrectly machined canisters. Haven't done any modifications to it thankfully, as that would have been a waste of time. URO Support , you said in an above post_ " our engineers checked several pieces from our inventory, and were able to thread the covers into an OEM housing by hand". URO Support, I'd Like to get this corrected asap please . So the canisters you have in stock now were checked and do fit m96 engines ...? How do we get the correct replacements that will positively fit...? Scared Rock Auto will send out the same URO problem canister as they did the first time... Please advise Thank you...

The thread on the factory filter canister is a very unique beast. When we started making the spin on filter adapters it took some work to get it right so that it worked every time and on every block. That said when we are making the spin on filter adapters, and now the billet housings, we thread each one into a thread gauge to ensure they are made correctly. We do this with every drain plug as well. Now that I know that you guys also want a version that eliminates the bypass, we'll get that into production next. I'll let everyone know when they are finished. They'll have to go out for hard anodizing after we are done machining them. We already have the soft socket made to allow you to install the canister without damaging the anodizing.

awesome, Awesome, AWESOME! I�ll be waiting (impatiently ) for its release. I�m surprised you decided to proceed into production with only a few confirmations. I was expecting you to need around 50 commitments, or so.

Soooo, after the dust and comments settled. some issues. 1) Nothing definite yet from LN Engineering on their rendition of oil cannister, correct size matches, filter included yes/no, ByPass yes/no version, price, when is product available. 2) URO oil cannister 20-30 thousands/inch too large, does not fit. ( @Porschetech3 measured results) ( FWIW, .0002"- .0003" is a Press Fit) 3) Will URO "Recall" original alum. cannisters and replace with correct size cannister? What part does RockAuto have with cannisters that do not fit? What happens next? I would have bought the URO version#1 because it was available. Scratch that idea. If LN Eng. actually has product, that would be a viable alternative. Thoughts? YMMV.

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Including the soft socket, I expect the final cost to be around $220. The soft socket works in conjunction with this Hazet tool: https://lnengineering.com/hazet-2169...ch-socket.html The parts in the process of being made, so I'd hope we should be able to ship by Thanksgiving.

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Initial reaction = Outrageous! A relatively simple part being made and sold at nearly 5 times the cost of a Porsche OEM part? ($220 - $45 for tool) This must be a milestone first event, a Porsche part is less than an aftermarket equivalent. The OEM oil cannister is probably made by Injection-Molding, fast and cheap. Sure, the initial mold cost a bundle, but after that, the parts are quite low cost. Oh, BTW, don't step on the mirror I have placed under my engine so you could see a colossally expensive anodized oil cannister. JMO, others may get their mirrors ready.

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Who pissed in your wheaties this morning?

I replace my oil filter housing cap at each oil change. The cost will balance out after a year.

@Siberian14 So, if you want a better part than the plastic oil filter housing that has a filter by-pass in the BOTTOM where all the metal and plastic debris settle, What are your options ? If the plastic OEM oil filter by-passing part is " good enough" for you, then fine... But if you want better, what are your options? Labor time alone in todays economy, is about $200 an hour, what can you make/come up with in an hour that is better/more frugal ? The URO Sand Cast Aluminum part is a bargain at less than $50 bucks, but Quality Control seems to be an issue..... LN Products have always been Top Quality, no doubt about that..and Top Quality " never goes out of style" , you can take that to the bank ...

Thanks guys, Rock Auto has corrected the data error about the filter and we've frozen wholesale sales of the aluminum cover while our engineers dig deeper into the thread issue. Please standby.

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Thanks to URO for an update. I will watch to see what happens. As a side note. FWIW, many complain about a P-Cost penalty for various parts. So why hide popular opinions/views? As a returning P-car owner I am very familiar with these thoughts, evaluations, complaints. In reality, it doesn't matter if something is P-labeled or someone else. Excessive pricing is still excessive pricing. Modern fabrication methods may/may-not lower cost per unit, and projected number of units made affects pricing. If an original P-part has proven to be effective, low cost, and reliable, then something else has a tough "sell". Elusive "quality" is "User defined", and must face competition from what is already proven or an equal in "perceived" quality. Whatever, we all make $$$ decisions. I still think that a price point of 5x-exisiting cost is ridiculous. One might also opine that a P-car is ridiculous.. I don't genuflect and bow head to a P-car, it is still a pile of nuts, bolts, and metal, just a car. Admitted a tremendous collection of nuts, bolts, and metal, but still a car. Some realism is needed for evaluation. All said and done, I still bought a 996 C4S and like it. I can find things that are totally insane in the way it is, but so what? The fact that it IS a 996 and not a 991, 992, GT3/4x is cogent. Price Does count. I'd really like a 917, but no deal. P made one for Count Rossi, legal and licensed in Alabama, so it is possible, but P forgot my name on the build lists. I accept it and move on. No offense to other opinions. BTW, Wheaties suck. YMMV.

Quotes source post: 19630429

Here is the deal. If you don't like the price, don't buy it. Every business will eventually figure it out if sales are slow and either lower the price, improve the product or go out of business. Capitalism is a funny thing. It creates incentives whether we like it or not.

Thanks @Charles Navarro , I have bought 2 of your spin-on adapters and magnetic drain plugs, but would like to look at the pleats when I change the oil (so I bought a filter cutter too... more difficult than I thought, and messy), so am going to try Skip's bypass epoxy mod to keep the bypass closed on the factory filter. I also bought a @URO Support aluminum canister when they first came out, but now, the thread issue is concerning (I won't have a chance to check it for 6 mos or so though)

Quotes source post: 19630642

I bought mine from RockAuto a few days after it was announced in this thread. If you bought it anytime close to then, you probably received one from the same batch. I�d recommend you return it now, unless you receive confirmation that they�ll provide you a full refund in 6 months if your installation goes awry.

Quotes source post: 19630429

“Those lucky enough to build a business out of a dream owe it to the world to be the caretakers of these dreams.” Ferry Porsche Porsche Mission Statement Porsche Mission Statement: We are committed to providing an impeccable service to our demanding clientele of premium cars . Porsche Vision Statement Porsche Vision Statement: Our vehicles should always be something special . We also expect extraordinary results when it comes to the profitability of our company. To achieve this, today and in the future, we rely on employees and managers who think like Ferry Porsche did and who are always ready to go the extra mile. Porsche Values Porsche Values: Embedded within our mission, vision, strategy, and brand statement, the corporate culture statement complements our corporate vision statement. While our strategy explains ‘what we do’, our corporate culture statement reflects ‘who we are’. Herzblut, Pioniergeist, Sportlichkeit, One family I have been outrunning and out handling the venerable 911-930 since the 70's in modified American Iron...I didn't get why people would pay such prices for mediocre performance for decades...Even after I was hired and Trained by Porsche to be a Gold Miester Tech I didn't get it for years....I finally realized a car is more than the sum of rubber,plastic,steel, aluminum, nuts and bolts... ..it is about the Philosophy of the Engineering/manufacturing that does trickle down into just about all the parts, even the nuts and bolts... Race Cars are built to a specific purpose...." to Win at all costs".....Production cars are built to a Philosophy ..... https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/autom...rk=public_post I am good with Porsche's Philosophy,..can they be improved ?? Yes !!!!

Wrong thread, sorry.

I have been running a "non-by-passed" filter on Sally for about 2 decades with 20W-50 oil all year long in Alabama ....Instant full oil pressure as soon as the engine fires up even in temperature down below freezing....... And I never expect to have a "stopped up" oil filter........Porsche's recommendation is to change the oil filter every 30K miles !!!!! .. but we all know where that comes from...

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Skip, you just nailed it. At the end of the day, the vast majority of guys and gals that support the Porsche community with solutions are enthusiasts looking to solve problems. I applaud them for taking the initiative.

Quotes source post: 19631135

I started working at the Dealership Level in 1974, but was into it way before that at age 12, I was rebuilding motorcycle engines out of necessity, I was lucky to have one at that age ,but with not a lot of resources I had to figure out how to keep it operating on next to nothing...Yes back then in Alabama you could get a motorcycle License at age 14 and by then I had progressed to a Suzuki 500cc Twin 2-stroke that would a do a buck and a quarter at top speed....With 50 years at the Dealership Level ( not counting decades at Racetracks and just personal knowledge )you get to know the Philosophy's of not only the Dealer Principals, but the Engineers, Bean Counters, Marketers, Corporate , and "Brands"..and also the wide variety of diverse owners of all these Machines.... I think it is really interesting if you look at the advancements of the 30 years before the 996 model, and the 25 years after the 996 model, the stark contrast is telling... I could tell the 996 was special and a big leap in advancements, thats why I fell in love with those "ugly" ( Aero) headlights right off the bat...the Areo improvement , the styling and overall package/driving experiance....it sucked me, and all of us in .....

Quotes source post: 19629722

RockAuto informed me its been over 30 days so no refund. So, will you refund, or replace with a canister that fits please.

^ Hi Allcool, sending an IM now, we'll get you taken care of.

Quotes source post: 19635100

Not a big problem. Thanks for the reply. Nobody/no company is perfect, mistakes are made by all of us. As long as you take care of it thats the important stuff that separates the good guys from the others. jmo

Quotes source post: 19630429

$220 for a billet of machined aluminum with two ready-to-go features (strength, bypass block) that you otherwise have to DIY, is not only a completely fair deal, it's saving you thousands of dollars of labor for a shop to figure it out. You want bespoke engineering services at mass-production cost, who's living do you plan to steal to pull that off? @URO Support I also received my alu canister, haven't opened it; but if we know this first batch is no good, I'd like to get it handled too please.

@URO Support I know now my aluminum housing is no good, but I have already modified it.....If you want to "Goodwill Warranty" it, that will be fine, if not I'm fine with that also, it is only $36 down the drain... I will be getting the LN billet non-by-pass version when available for my "baby" ,....... but I have other less loved M96 cars I could use the "modified URO version" on....I like to keep different Quality spare parts on the shelf to have a choice on what to use on which car...

Hi everyone, we're still evaluating the threads. It's a strange thing, since the covers install just fine on some cars but not others. If anyone with an unused cover is nearing the end of their return window, feel free to return it to the retailer while we figure this out. For folks who miss their return window, don't worry, we'll get you taken care of if the cover doesn't fit your car and you need an updated version once they're available.

Hi guys, Engineering confirmed the thread OD drifted out of spec during manufacturing, so we're going to do a new production run of these covers. We're really disappointed this happened - this should have been an exciting new product for the enthusiast community. If you bought one, please return it (very sorry for the hassle) to the retailer. If you're unable to return it for any reason, please send an email to "sales @ apaindustries dot com" with a brief note and your order confirmation (including order number, date, and full shipping info), and we'll get you a replacement when the next production run arrives at our warehouse in SoCal.

Quotes source post: 19635100

Any updates when a replacement canister thats not defective and actually fits will be shipped...? Asking because its been about 2 months since you were notified in this thread of the defective canister. I Would just like a full refund including a call tag to pick up this defective part, and my shipping costs, please... Thanks URO support for standing behind your products and a timely solution to this problem please.

^ Hi Fred, no ETA on the next production run just yet; the engineers and production line are still working on the update. We're still happy to do a no-charge warranty replacement as requested in your PM, but if you'd like a refund instead, please return the cover to the retailer where you purchased it. (If you're outside of the retailer's return window, PM us your full order info and we can try to persuade them to accept a return.)

Quotes source post: 19709449

As already said to you (in this thread) way back when this all came to light, Rock Auto's return policy is way out of date for my (and others here) return. When I first learned of this being a defective non fitting part almost 2 months ago, tried to return it too RA, they said to late for a return. And I really don't think I should have to deal with begging RA to change their policy for me and the others that purchased your defective part. As you specifically came on my (this) thread and advertised this to fit a m96 and it does not fit, please refund me (and all the others in this thread that bought this because of you) in a timely fashion please URO Support... Just PM'd you my RA invoice.... Thank you for the fast reply....

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Just to jog your memory, you posted this advertisement,,, in this thread as an option for us all.So many here bought it. I know you didn't purposely try to deceive us, but fact remains these filter canisters do not fit a m96 engine at all. We purchased these on your word here. And they are URO parts you hopefully will stand behind being URO Support, as the defects won't allow these canisters to even be used once. Hopefully Without us trying to convince the retailer of the need to fully refund our costs after their return policy expired. As many of us were going to use these for future projects, not immediate use.

Quotes source post: 19709606

Thanks, PM sent.

I just ordered mine with the non-pass of course...something I have been wanting for years is this Billet Housing with no by-pass and using the OEM filter... https://lnengineering.com/products/p...r-housing.html LN Engineering has finished the Billet Oil Filter Canister that uses the OEM filter and comes with the option of high differential by-pass or non-bypass..

Quotes source post: 19749269

And on sale too lol, Charles knows how to get us in the door quickly. Ordered mine without bypass as well.

Yay, thanks for updating the thread @Porschetech3 !!

Quotes source post: 19709720

Thank you, just received refund check from URO for the defective filter canister. Please keep us up dated on the release of the correct filter canister for a 996.

Quotes source post: 19749269

Thanks for that link and the update on LN canister availability.... About to order 1....

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We are shipping everyone who ordered one already today. I'm surprised that so far no one has bought the version with the bypass. I was pretty proud of that little feature :-)

Quotes source post: 19750020

This has me thinking I should remove my spin on filter and get this instead? I like the " Integral magnet captures ferrous debris at the bypass to keep it from going back into the engine at cold start, as commonly happens with the stock filter housing." Except what would I do with two cases of made in USA 1258 spin ons?

Quotes source post: 19750020

Could the bypass be purchased separately, and swapped into the non-bypass version if we change our minds?

Quotes source post: 19750112

Yes. I'll get them added to the store so they can be purchased separately. Might take me a few days to get to it though.

Okay, cool. So will your bypass (and it�s twice-as-strong spring) open during a cold-start?

Quotes source post: 19750673

Lots of variables here. It has to do with the pressure differential across the filter, so how dirty the filter is, the viscosity of the oil, etc. I won't make a claim that it is going to prevent it from ever opening, but it is going to be a lot less likely than the stock relief with double the spring pressure, especially one that has been in service for years, if not decades at this point.

Quotes source post: 19752775

Charles, I am looking to pick one up today. Which one do I want? The one with the bypass or without. I run DI40 in the cold weather months and DI50 in the warm weather months. I change my oil many times a year since I track the car. What's the advantage/disadvantage from your perspective? Thanks!

Quotes source post: 19758432

Here are a few scenarios: 1. Original IMS bearing and 0w40 or 5w40: I'd go with the no bypass. 2. 15w50 oil year round with the possibility of cold starts: bypass. 3. Long drain interval: bypass. 4. Restrictive filter (think Napa Platinum, M1, K&N, resin impregnated filter media): bypass. Track use is a difficult choice. I still recommend running a billet high flow filter, so if it was me, I'd run the version with the bypass, just to prioritize flow if you did run into a situation where the filter was obstructed, which I admit is highly unlikely. Hope that helps!

@Charles Navarro Any idea of flow rates for the factory paper filter vs. the billet high flow filter?

Quotes source post: 19759513

The filter we are working on now will use a uniform 35 micron element made from type 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth and is pressure tested using the ASTMF316 testing procedure and rated to 1000 psi burst strength. The resin used to assemble the filters is rated to 600 deg F, so over double the temps the filter should ever see. Paper filters are typically rated based on averages, efficiency percentages (often referred to as beta ratios), and multiple-pass testing. This means a paper filter advertised as 10-micron rated may actually allow particles as large as 50 microns to pass through. The factory filter is rated at a nominal 28 micron and the Napa Gold 1042/1348 is rated at 21 micron.

Quotes source post: 19758432

Hi GC, Why are you using DI50 vs DT50. I know you track your 996, so does DI50 have additives that work better?

Quotes source post: 19762497

Yes. I talked to Lake Speed about which Driven oil to use that i can run on both the street and track. He recomended i use DI40 & DI50 over DT40 & DT50 for the M96. There is a thread that goes into great detail about its advantages fpr the M96 that I will find and post. I just started using it in my Audis as well. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/1347309-driven-di40-dt40-and-pca-video.html

Quotes source post: 19761019

Charles, just received my oil canister yesterday. Very nice piece! If you can, let us know what else you guys are developing for rollout. We are all ears. Any idea when the new oil filter you are developing will be ready for sale?

Quotes source post: 19763922

The new billet filter is currently in Jake's hands for testing. Once he gives his approval, it will go into production. I'm guessing we should have them after the new year. Lots in the pipeline as Jake is working with our engineer and machinists on a nearly daily basis. We'll be sure to post new product announcements in the vendor announcements area and will also include them in our Tech Tuesday newsletters, which I would recommend everyone sign up for at https://lp.constantcontactpages.com/sl/fscVaqG/LNEnews

I received and installed my new LN Billet Canister with a disabled bypass. It looks really good, but the fitment is better. The canister threads onto the engine easily and the bypass fits firmly into the Mahle oil filter. The soft socket tool is well made too, lol. I�m very happy with this purchase and am pleased to have one less thing to worry about. This canister pairs really well with the UIDS; they�re just about level with each other when installed.

Quotes source post: 19764205

Charles is there a billet magnetic oil filter housing in the works for the M9A1 engine? I searched the LN site but couldn't seem to find anything.

Quotes source post: 19964781

It's all done now. I just had to find time to get it added to the website. https://lnengineering.com/billet-987...-w-magnet.html Due to the high initial start oil pressure, we are only going to offer this one with a higher pressure bypass valve and no delete.

Quotes source post: 20005836

Excellent! Will order one soon!