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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHIMS install help, shaft not centered
Leading reported evidence
Run engine and verify cam deviations
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Suggestion
Did you run the engine and verify cam deviations on both banks after variocam pads and timing chain pads change?
Leading evidence: 'Run engine and verify cam deviations' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Run engine and verify cam deviations' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I am currently in the process of installing the IMS solution in my '00 996 and am running into an issue with the IMS shaft not being centered.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Has anyone run into this issue or has an idea as to what went wrong?
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I am currently in the process of installing the IMS solution in my '00 996 and am running into an issue with the IMS shaft not being centered. I have all 3 tensioners out, crank pinned and the bank 1 camshaft locked. I have the LN pro and supplemental tool kits and everything has gone smoothly so far with the exception that the bearing was a bit difficult to install in the IMS shaft and required more hammering than I would have liked. In hindsight, I probably should have put the bearing in the freezer before installing. Has anyone run into this issue or has an idea as to what went wrong? I would think that if the hammering were to damage anything, it would be on the oil pump end of the engine, so I don't see how this could be related to the offset.
I can move it a little by hand, but not enough to push the flange in by hand. Currently to install the flange, it needs to be tapped with a plastic mallet while pushing with all my strength with my other hand to center it.
Yes, cam is locked on the drivers side. Cam timing has not moved on either side. Engine is out so this is easy to check. I changed vario cam pads and chain guides and did cam timing prior to pulling the old ims bearing.
Mine did something similar when i installed, threaded stud was just a little "up" i put the flange on and with a mallet tapped the flange down and then it just popped in.
The timing chain is pulling the IMS shaft toward the bank 1 side, common problem. Even with the tensioner out and slack on the lower part of the chain , the upper is still taut. Porsche actually has a special tool that screws on to the IMS stud and rests against the engine case with a turnbuckle to push the IMS over back into alignment. Bar having the special tool, you can remove bank 1 scavenge pump and loosen the 4 bolts on the bank 1 exhaust cam and allow it to turn slightly out of time, which will relieve the upper part of the chain so you can install the flange. then install the tensioner and it should move back into time, and retighten the 4 exhaust gear bolts.
Porschetech3- thank you very much for the explanation. It will be a major relief if this is what is going on. I will try loosening the bank 1 cam sprocket tonight as you describe above and see how it goes.
Well that was it! Once the 4 sprocket bolts were loosened, the tension in the chain was relieved enough that the ims shaft became perfectly centered. I test fit the IMS flange w/o seal and it slid in perfectly with no resistance. Thanks again Porschetech!
Hello! I am having a similar problem to the original poster. My engine is locked at TDC, and I have a cam tool locking the cams on the driver's side. I pulled my IMS flange off and the IMS assembly has moved slightly "up and to the right". I was not able to easily move it back down, though in fairness so far I have been hesitant to put much force on the center bolt. Mine is a 3 chain engine and it is still in the car. So far, I have not removed any of the chain tensioners. My questions are essentially:
1. Is it OK to put pressure on the center bolt to move it back into place.
2. When I remove the chain tensioners will that fix the issue? Am I likely to need to remove all three or can I get away with just the two rear tensioners?
3. If I need to ultimately do the procedure described here where I remove the scavenger and then loosen the exhaust cam bolts (which mildly terrifies me), how to I know when it is safe to retighten them? Should I mark them? Can this be done with the engine in the car?
Many thanks,
Jay
I dont know why this question still exists. The factory and LN proceedures require all the chain tensioners to be removed. The 3 chains pull on the ims shaft in different direction. When the bearing is removed the shaft gets pulled unless the tensioners r removed in some cases u do not have to remove the tensioner under the ac compresser but u risk binding the bearing because it has to force the shaft into alignment.
Ya, its all here in this thread, and many many many others, in detail.
I'd start with the 2, and see how things look.
Good chance if bearing was pulled with tension on chains might have to also do the sprocket thing like PT3 suggests a few posts up in this thread...
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