987.2 rear LED bulbs (primarily turn signal) - DIY Solution!

I wondered why I wasn't seeing any real listings for replacement LED bulbs on the 987.2 model of cars. So I dug into the tali light assembly last night to see why. First off, there are a few videos out there that claim to be for the 987.2 , but are only relevant to the 987.1 . My 2010, for example, doesn't have a "bulb board" as shown in those videos, and instead has some VERY weird bulbs inside. Some pictures to explain: Here is the tail light assembly removed from the car - it's easy as there are only 3x 8mm nuts to remove, and the whole thing pushes out. The connector is pretty simple as well... but be mindful that there is a lock on it. Here's the rear view: As you can see, I removed one of the studs (top right corner) and was able to pull the foam insulation to see past it. This is what I saw: I tore the foam a bit doing this, but it's not a big deal since it doesn't really "seal" against anything here anyway, because there's nothing behind it to press against. The edges of the assembly "seal" so that's all you really care about, IMO. Anyway, you can now see the back of the bulbls here. One on the left (in white) which is the turn signal, and the other on the right is probably the brake light. The one I was interested in replacing is the turn signal, so that's easy to get to. A Torx screw driver makes quick work of this, and the assembly comes out: At first, I thought that the bulb would come out of the assembly... it's not intended to do this. The back of the bulb is spot-welded to the metal there, so the entire white part is the bulb assembly. Pull off the yellow wire connectors, and that's the entire bulb assembly: As seen above, this is a PH19WY bulb assembly. This entire thing is the part. What a dumb idea, IMO, for a bulb... why not use a standard socket bulb?! Anyway, this is what we have. Unfortunately, I don't see many options out there for an LED. I see one on Aliexpress here: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800055939305.html The prongs on the Aliexpress are on the "side" rather than the end, like the stock part, but it probably would work. I may give it a try, since it's not too expensive. Are there any other options out there, other than replacing the entire assembly? I would consider doing that, but I don't care for the look of the 718-style lights, as they seem LESS visible versus to the stockers (I'm aiming to make these MORE visible). And the only 981-style has exposed/visible LEDs, which I don't care for the look of either (Amazon). I'd prefer a frosted lens so you don't see the individual LEDs, but maybe I have no choice... Anyone have other ideas for bulbs or assembly replacements, preferably 981 or 987 style appearance? My lenses aren't perfectly clear, so a full replacement might be nice. That being said, it seems idiotic for the bulbs to be non-user-replaceable like this, forcing a user to replace the entire assembly... unless you want to dig in like I did. The key reason I want to do this is because I want the lights to be more visible, particularly from the side of the car (so when you arm the alarm, you can see the flashes and know that it "took"). That's why I figured a brighter bulb would be an easy fix... but, like I said, I wouldn't mind a full assembly replacement with LEDs, like the ones on Amazon, but I want them to look decent as well... EDIT: Another option is to build an adapter to work with a standard bulb instead of the weird bracket shown here. I figure a 3D printed bracket could work, with a basic socket. There's a ton of room in there, so I can kinda do whatever I want.... but I'd certainly prefer something pre-made! EDIT2: I ordered the Aliexpess bulbs. I'll test them out and see how they fare...

Following...

If it makes you feel better I order all my LED automotive bulbs from Ali. Never had an issue. Other option is you take the old or the Ali ones, cut or drill out the bulb section, epoxy a cheap 1157(or other) holder in, and then solder the wires to the metal plates. Then you plentiful 1157 bulbs.

Link please? "Bulbs for all" shows me links for flowers... Agreed, I thought about redoing the sockets, but for $26 for the pair, the Aliexpress ones are good enough, if they work. Thanks for the tip on the 1157 bulbs... that's a bit of research I won't have to do!

Regarding replacement units: my 987.2 rear lights were completely shot - plastic had spiderweb cracking all over and was very faded, looked terrible. I too didn't want 718 or 981 style rear lenses, so I bought these; https://www.design911.co.uk/p/indicator-unit-rear-porsche-987-mkii-987c-mkii-rhd-cars-98763142704-98763142804-98763142703-98763142803-98763142705-98763142805/?source=doofinder This whole situation is ridiculous; either swap out the bulb holder via some DIY work or spend £350+ on a new unit, which probably won't match original so you'll need 2... Why did they they design it like that. It also might be worth just popping into your local specialist; very likely they've dealt with this request numerous times and as such might have a work around.

I agree, it's an idiotic design. There are PLENTY of bulb sizes out there, do they really need to use such a weird one? I can get to full assemblies here in the USA as well, but they are still bulbs. I'd prefer LED and something brighter... hence the search. If the bulb I selected doesn't work, I may make something to adapt (at least the wires are simple blade connectors!)... but I'm hoping the LED will work. After that, I might consider a white LED for the other bulbs as well. For me, the key is visibility. I want these to be bright (and work past the dirt in them right now - mine aren't totally shot yet, but they aren't perfect either. If I can get it brighter, that will work for now. The second reason is to make the turn signals more visible from the sides, because we only have 1 button to lock/unlock, and no horn chirp. So, unless you can see the flashes, you don't know what worked or didn't. The range on my transmitter is quite short and finicky too (yes, I replaced the battery ) so it's even more annoying. What's more, Porsche doesn't flash the side markers when you do this either... seriously, WTF. I like the 981 style tails, but no one seems to make them for the 987.2 ... at least not at a reasonable price (I think I found a set for $1k somewhere, which is ridiculous). So, I'm waiting for the boat from China to get me these... I'll certainly report back when I get a chance to plug them in!

i used to think that I was the only one that found the signal lights/turn signals a bit dim on the 987.2 and didn't quite match the LED and Xenon combination at the front. Glad you are trying something new. There are some 981 style lights or 718 style lights for the 987 platform on the far east shopping sites but I felts some of the LEDs weren't quite bright enough.

DONE! Here is one replaced signal: Some more details on the process. I already covered most of the disassembly above, but here's the additional info to get it done. First off, @deilenberger was right - the stock brake lights are LED (I never looked at the car from the back with the brake lights on, as I'm usually driving it!). Also funny, the brake lights don't turn on without the key in the car... every other car I have played with wouldn't lock them out like that. Interesting. Anyway: This pic was taken with a low angle to highlight the turn signals... they're not terrible at the right angle, but I wanted it to be brighter. Plus, who doesn't like LEDs? The turns and reverse lights are bulbs it seems. I am focusing on the turns here, but I expect the same could be done with the rears if you care. The bulb I got was this one, 2x: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800055939305.html For a quick test, I made sure the LEDs worked before diving into the car. You can see it's quite a bit brighter even just from a cell camera photo: I also tested to make sure they didn't care about polarity - they don't. The LED works with wires either way, which is great! The big difference here on the part is that the tabs are off to the side on the new LEDs, while the bulb has them on the end. The solution is to bend them downwards, so they can fit inside the rear assembly otherwise the plastic connectors in the assembly won't fit - the tabs themselves have clearance). BE SURE to use a counter-clamp when bending as I expect you'll break the plastic otherwise. I used a needlenose and then an channel-lock to do this (not pictured since I only have 2 hands!): Once bent, you can install them in the existing hole easily. The LED does take a little fiddling to get into place, because of the two plastic posts below the screw holes in this picture: The tips of those need to clear the connectors on the side of the LED, but the two connectors do fit nicely between them. Just be aware of that when inserting the bulb. I also noticed that the top of the plastic is rubbing up against a metal bracket in the assembly. That bracket can be flexed out of the way a bit, and/or you could shave or trim the plastic to make more room. This should allow you to get both screws installed... but I am fine with just one screw... it's just a bulb after all: As you can see from the first post, this makes a LARGE difference in brightness. I also like that the LED is "faster" to light than a traditional bulb, so there is more high-intensity light for a slightly longer period of time... anything I can do to improve visibility is a win in my book! I haven't driven the car around yet, but I tested the hazards to cause the lights to turn on, as seen in these pictures. So far, no errors. Also, the bulbs don't flash fast or anything like that... flasher cycle appears normal.

While my 987.2 was getting the annual NC safety inspection in May, I was standing outside the bay and noticed how dim the rear turn signals seemed. For a minute I was worried they wouldn't pass inspection, but the tech didn't seem to care. Still, I'm thinking that they can't be very visible in bright sunlight. So I might try this - seems pretty easy. And it is easily reversible if the Aliexpress junk fails. As you mentioned, LEDs are instant on/off whereas incandescent bulbs have a latency while the filament heats/cools. I replaced my halogen front high beams with LEDs a couple years ago to match my (also LED ) low beams. Again - instant on/off - like a strobe - when I flash a greeting.

Now for the front ones I think I'll try this when I try and fix my brake lights. One side has some LEDs out.

Front ones are a standard size, from what I have read. My 2010 manual says it's an HY21W bulb (which seems to be the same as a PY21W bulb). That should be easier to source and get an exact match... EDIT: If anyone has a recommendation for a brand/model for the fronts, let me know. I know Lasfit is often suggested, but they are pricey...

Do you happen to have a link to what you used? Or what bulb type it has to match?

I'll start a thread on this.. but interesting stuff can be found at: LED lamps (street-legal) | OSRAM Automotive Like: https://www.osram.com/appsj/pdc/pdf.../pdc/pdf.do?cid=GPS01_3695161&vid=PP_EUROPE_Europe_eCat&lid=EN&mpid=ZMP_4063288 And: https://look.ams-osram.com/m/686d0479b824638f/original/LEDriving-Retrofits-Exchange-overview-EN.pdf Not to say these are legal in the US - but they apparently are TUV approved in Europe for the cars specifically listed.. Some that might be of interest (look a lot like the bulbs you're replacing..) Would have to do some research...

For the official record, the LEDs are working fine. Drove the car a bit the other day, and it's not throwing any codes or issues... and no fast-flash or hyper-flash issues either. Very happy with the change! Haven't noticed if the lights are bright enough to see during the daytime (for alarm activation)... but they're brighter than stock, so it can't be worse! EDIT 7/17/2024: It's been a busy few days for me, so I haven't had a chance to pay detailed attention to this mod, but I was out yesterday running an errand, and during the bright daylight, I could EASILY see the flash of the turn signals when I armed the alarm. Granted, I was behind the car, but it was crazy bright and easy to see... I was happy to know the alarm armed as expected (since I didn't hear the clunk of the lock as I was running to an appointment). Also, still no error codes!

Well, the previous linked bulb is NOT the correct size. That is a PY21W bulb with an BAU15S base, which is too large for the socket: The existing bulb is an HY21W, or a BAW9S socket (9mm vs 15mm base). Amazon is wrong to say that the PY21W / BAU15S fits the car. All that being said, I may just leave this bulb alone. The front turn signals don't come out the "side" of the housing at all, so brightening that up won't matter too much for my needs anyway (to improve side-lighting of the alarm arm flashes).

After that, moved to replacing the front fogs, H8, with AUXITO and the dipped beams and high beams with Philips Ultinon, H7 and H9 respectively. Did not need CANBUS resistors with these, went in easily with no error messages. Fogs installed first, original headlights. Original halogen, followed by Philips LED. (6500k) Install complete, parking lights, fogs, low and high beams. Just came back from the first drive after dark and I’m quite happy with the results. Planning to repeat this process with the rear taillight assembly. Did these puddle lights I found on eBay Motors last week.

Thanks for your detailed post which gave me the easy steps to perform this upgrade myself ( 987.2 Boxster S PDK ) I ordered the exact same LED globes from the Alibaba link you so kindly supplied. A couple of things to add: 1. I originally bent both of the terminal tabs on the new LED globes withg pliers only the wrong way :-0 (I didn't use channel locks), but they bent back to the correct side easily and with no fracture to the tabs (YMMV - DON'T bend them the wrong way and use both the channel locks and pliers if you can) 2. Also, I was able to easly get enough miniscule flex out of the bulb base to get BOTH mounting screws in (though not necessary as the original poster notes - I'm just MILDLY OCD and simply having knowledge that there was an unfilled screw hole would have driven me bonkers) I produced a very amateurish 18 second video showing the end result which some may find useful, especially showing the crisp ON-OFF intensity of the LED vs incandescent globe. Go to YouTube and paste the search term 2010 - 987 2 Boxster LED Upgrade Results in YouTube search box - there is no period in 987.2, just a space. (as a new member, I was unable to post a direct link in this post, but I tried again below on a post edit): NEXT ... the front indicator globes. Does anyone know what type they are as I looked it up online and the suggested globe does not match mine. Also, does anyone have a direct link to the blub change/upgrade operation for the fronts? Thanks in advance for any replies and also once again to schwinn

Great video to compare them. I like the side-by side section, great work! As far as I saw, fronts were standard things. As I recall, the part number is located on the cover that you remove to replace them. They were socketed. I posted details somewhere here on the forum, but here's what I see in my photo history: As you can see, it's labeled as an HY21W bulb. Some webpage somewhere (maybe Amazon) said the PY- would work, so I bought one of those but it does NOT work, as noted above in post 23 ( https://www.planet-9.com/threads/98...s-primarily-turn-signal-diy-solution.256012/page-2?post_id=2231688#post-2231688 ) So, be sure to get an HY bulb, as that is the correct size, at least on my car. It's easy enough to pull the headlight assembly out of the car and check what yours says... and even check visually if desired. I gave up on going LED with those because they don't wrap-around to the sides, so making those brighter doesn't help me with my issue of arming the alarm and confirming it actually worked (the rears are visible from the side). If I could get the side-markers to blink with the fronts, that would be fine, but they are on a separate circuit and controlled by the computer, so you can't make them work with the alarm, apparently... the ECU doesn't have such an option, that I could find (I know there is an option in there to make it steady or blink with the turn signals... but not something that works with the alarm blinks.)

I just did this upgrade with the Alibaba LED rears. HOLY COW! If you're even half considering doing this upgrade, do not hesitate! It's absolutely fantastic! Thank you @schwinn for this information. For real

I know, it's a HUGE difference, and well worth it for visibility alone. It amazes me that the stock bulbs are acceptable in the first place... they're so dim. I'm glad to see it helped at least one person!

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My first post has it. It's the AliExpress link. Repeated here: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800055939305.html

OK....this is amazing. Has anyone replaced the front amber lights? These dim things drive me absolutely crazy.....

I believe those area a standard bulb instead of the silly ones used in the rears... so you should be able to find an easy/regular match for that?

Post 27 (3 posts up) shows the front one from my car and provides the part number. I believe I showed pics of the bulb I was incorrectly matched by Amazon 's match system earlier as well...

Got it.....the HY21W bulb. Is this bulb going to be any brighter than the dim lights? Or just replacements with the same (lack of) brightness?

Depends on the bulb you buy. Standard HY21W will have some level of lumens. Others can quote other brightnesses. You'll have to find what you want... I chose the rear one based on lumens, after all, and sourced one that was brighter. If you do LED , be sure to get one that doesn't throw errors, because otherwise it might. Basically, the bulb needs to draw enough current to keep the computer happy. If the bulb doesn't do this internally, you'd need to add a load resistor yourself, which I expect you're not ready to do... so be sure to check for that.

The newer LED replacement bulbs use 4 (or more) diodes - allowing them to make a "bulb" that won't trigger the bulb monitoring circuit. That monitoring circuit has changed quite a bit since it was originally introduced in the late 1970's. The early ones used a circuit that measured the current being drawn by a bulb when it was on, and if there was no continuity there was no current, and the warning was lit up. The carmakers then wanted to create a sensor that would work even if the lights weren't on - it would work whenever the ignition is on. This circuit - instead of measuring the current draw sends a pulse signal through the lamp circuit. This can be done with the bulbs not on - the advantage being the car can warn you about a light being out before you need to use the light. Earlier simple LED replacement elements had all their LED 's connected in parallel. Depending on the LEDs - often the signal couldn't get through due to the polarity being reversed.. so some clever engineer designed a bridge circuit using 4 LED 's so that no matter what the polarity is - the bulb monitoring circuit will work, and the bulb will light up. I bought a kit for the Boxster - 14 elements IIRC, every one of them worked right out of the box, no fiddling around with them needed.

Hi all. Thanks for the usefull post. Would like to do the same change but looks like the link yo the AliExpress LED bulbs does no longer work?? And when I search myself I can only find the PH19WY bulbs in white colour on the site... Can someone help me? Thanks in advance Bruno