Lower door light operation not working correctly

Forgive me for not remember what these lights are called (automatically light up for door open/close and auto shutoff after 30 seconds). The problem: The drivers side light doesn't work (I am waiting for the tools to remove fittings to check the bulb) and the Passenger light stays on the entire time the engine is started, driving around town, and remains on after it is parked for a period of time exceeding 20 minutes. The passenger door light isn't that annoying during the day, but at night it makes it hard if not darn right impossible to see on turns, not to mention making it plainly difficult to drive at all at night due to it lighting up the interior. It's like driving with the drivers or cars overhead lights on. Has anyone experienced this before? What did you have to do to correct the issue?

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Are you talking about the puddle lights that are on the bottom, rear portion of each door and illuminate the ground when the door is opened?

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Correct. I have both the service manual (courtesy of Charm) and the Bentley service manual (that arrived on my doorstep 2 days ago) and the service manual doesn't even cover them and the Bentley manual on describes how to remove and replace them. I'm grasping at straws the behavior might similar to the turn signals when a bulb is out.

A trim tool or flat-blade screwdriver on the backside can help pop them out. Nothing special.

I would presume they are both on all the time and the drivers burnt out. They come on with either door or the hood open� likely one of those has a micro switch that is stuck �open� so the car thinks one of them is open all the time. You could check the hood by putting your phone in the frunk and seeing if the light goes out when it closes. Also check both windows drop/raise when opening and closing the doors. I think some scan tools can check door switches too, although it�s an advanced function.

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For starters the frunk light is inop. So I first need to remove both it and the driver side 'puddle' light to determine if they are burnt out. If not I likely have bigger issues. But I won't dwell on that until I know more. Another option I found suggests lubricating the door latch itself and jiggling it. I'm not sure WD40 is the right tool for that. Failing that, it appears I will need to remove the door trim and take a closer look at the latch mechanism to see if the switch is being activated. Being a mechanical relay it may be zapped with some WD40 to promote unsticking it. It can likely be tested with a multi meter ... I think. Another test of the switch is to open the door and see if the window correctly opens and closes in the up position. I'm currently hampered by lack of trim tools for the more serious sections of disassembly, but the puddle light can be removed with a credit card and some jiggling. Trim tools should arrive Monday or Tuesday. I just have to find the smaller set available than the monolithic set from PelicanParts. I only need the Porsche set, not.one that works with BMW, Audi and others. 6 piece vs 85. (Same with the radio removal tools offered for a one time use?) It's just tiring searching a dozen sites to find exactly what I need to shorten the list down to one that offers more than a single part needed after wading through an hour or two of YouTube videos that may cover the entire process or break out the 30 second clips within a video. I'd rather spend the time playing my guitar, but needs must come first.

You can test whether your car thinks a door (or frunk or engine lid) is left ajar. Lock your car with a single press of your fob button, or with a single turn of the door lock cylinder. If your car beeps its horn, then it means something hasn't been secured. Try doing that with a door purposely left open. It ought to respond. If it doesn't, then your car thinks everything has been secured, when it really hasn't.

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I agree with 996love's advice here, and if this is the problem the yellow light would also likely be illuminated next to the central locking system toggle button on the right side of the center horseshoe console. You should determine if it is something a bit more simple first prior to taking off the door panel and evaluating the door latch. That passenger side door latch is $500+ and unless you are having problems with the 10mm window movement up/down when opening/closing that door, it is unlikely to be the latch. Irrespective of the above, the first thing I would do is to pull the puddle light bulb out of the passenger side and put it in the drivers side puddle light to see if the same thing is occurring on that side (the drivers side may just be currently burned out). If the light also stays on on the drivers side, that would indicate its not just the passenger door but more of a central locking system issue.

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Car has never beeped the horn prior to the Keyfob not working correctly, nor did it when the keyfob did work.

Okay, try locking your driver's door lock cylinder with a single turn, while keeping the engine lid open. Ensure that the lightbulb on the engine lid is lit. Does the car beep its horn? If it doesn't, then there is something wonky going on with the car's alarm system, and it goes further than simply a microswitch.

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My car is a very early 99 model (purchased 6/98) which may or may not have features added to the later '99 builds such as the door light mentioned that doesn't exist on my car. No need to switch the bulbs around though, you can visually check the filament to see if it is connected (working) or broken/burned (failing) The purpose of removing the door trim is to gain access to the micro switch inside on the latch, the latch ishouldn't be factor. Issues with the latch would be more mechanical in nature and exhibit different symptoms (I'm assuming here. The Bentley service manual is strictly service related and the items from the Charm website don't have any troubleshooting entries regarding the issue (or the keyfob for that matter. It only references replacing the battery or fixing an antenna issue)). The Frunk light is currently inop in addition to the door paddle light. I am going to pull the bulbs on both first and check their state. If they just need replaced, I'll do that first to see if it resolves the problem. The circuit doesn't appear to be wired in a series, otherwise everything tied to it wouldn't work. (I'm assuming here) Without a working keyfob,door light indicating lock state or the horn operating as a troubleshooting step, it's onto the next steps in the chain. This means testing the micro switch actions to start. The switch is supposed to control the window action upon opening or closing the door. If that works, then an attempt to lubricate the micro switch is the next recommended step (Based on several Google searches and variations thereof that were based on the light staying on.) If this step fails, the next step is to remove the door panel to test the micro switch mechanical operation with a multi-meter to validate if it is operational. If not, see if the micro switch solder points for corrosion or a possible loose connection (or a cold soldered joint if one exists (not real likely)). I hope it goes no further than that. I can replace the micro switch and solder it in place. Then I can work on troubleshooting the remaining electrical issues I'm experiencing and see if I can fix those without resorting to a third party.

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What light? I don't see one anywhere. Nothing happens when the lid is up and the door locked manually. There isn't one behind the bottom lip either.

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Not that it makes a difference, but the keyfob only works after pressing the button in the lock position. It will then cycle twice. First the lock sequence, then the unlock. It doesn't work at all once it's removed. The dash receiver will flash when the button is pressed 20 feet away, so it isn't an antennae issue either. Trip to the dealer confirms the keyfob is registered and working properly. The problem lies elsewhere in the system. The alarm system has never worked since I bought it last year. The current problems only began to manifest themselves more recently.

Interesting, maybe the early 99 models don't have a light on the engine lid. The reason why I ask you to lock the car via the door lock cylinder is because I'm trying to determine whether there may be an issue with the alarm system (immobilizer module). By not using the remote fob, we can eliminate multiple variables. The immobilizer module is basically a body control module for this car. If it acts up, it can produce the symptoms you've described, such as the dysfunctional interior lighting.

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I do have a series of issues with the alarm system, it's never appeared functional since purchased. I am fortunate to have been in a job for half my life that has required being able to think outside the box. Although I've gathered as much published service and technical information, I know when I can't figure out the issue it's time to begin asking others for help. A car is ultimately as complex at computer/server/networking systems and architecture. I can't arrange for a spare unit to replace the current one until the original problem is fixed. That option is simply not available. Like then, when I hit a wall I start asking questions even if I look like an idiot from time to time. The fix is important, not my pride Here I am trying to eliminate a problem in the hope each can be resolved on it's own. When I can't find an answer or solution in the manuals and Google searches and videos don't really address the exact issue it's time to come here and take advantage of the wealth of knowledge available before I have to break down and take it to the dealership or another third party to fix, although if it comes to that I will. So here I am. I may never get all of them resolved, but as long as it doesn't effect safety or operating the vehicle I can live with them only after my best effort to fix them.

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The engine lid light is in the plastic housing next to the engine lid fan. Mine is there 99 coupe (7/98 manufacture date).

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I'll be dipped in spit ... Your right. So now there are three lights that are really likely to only need bulbs. My brother had it the last 10 years, 5 of which where it was parked in the garage. Little details like this has never been a big priority. Thank you for the update and information. Time to make another trip down to the parts store.

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I've got Sylvania 6411's for all the light that are out. Just waiting on the trim tools. I'd not trusting myself with the credit card trick to open the cover.