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YOUR RESEARCHWhat's included in the factory 996 short block.
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Replace aos lines, rebuilt starter, rebuilt alternator
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Suggestion · Original poster
In addition to the short block, you will need gaskets, spark plugs, ignition coils, AOS, coolant tank, maybe heat exchanger, hard to change AOS lines, rebuilt starter, rebuilt alternator.
Leading evidence: 'Replace aos lines, rebuilt starter, rebuilt alternator' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace aos lines, rebuilt starter, rebuilt alternator' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I know I have bore scoring and have been taking prudent steps (frequent Oil changes, Driven DI40, etc) to keep it from (quickly) getting worse, due to the great expense of a rebuild.
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Suggestion
If and when I need to replace my engine I will most likely go this route.
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Suggestion
Wonder if the original Loka-sil 1 is still being used on the blocks...?
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Replace aos lines, rebuilt starter, rebuilt alternator
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Suggestion · Original poster
In addition to the short block, you will need gaskets, spark plugs, ignition coils, AOS, coolant tank, maybe heat exchanger, hard to change AOS lines, rebuilt starter, rebuilt alternator.
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Suggestion
I know I have bore scoring and have been taking prudent steps (frequent Oil changes, Driven DI40, etc) to keep it from (quickly) getting worse, due to the great expense of a rebuild.
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I asked this question before and did not get a good answer, so here it is.
The factory 5-chain short block includes the block (duh), water pump, oil level sensor, oil pump, all five chains, all three chain tensioners (two are in a separate box not installed during shipping), all chain ramps (several are in the box not installed), both knock sensors, all six dowel pins at the heads and the bell housing interfaces, and the big IMS bearing.
What's not included:
Four 102mm studs at the oil pump housing
All three square / rectangular coolant path cover plates and their gaskets.
No thermostat or its housing (surprise)
No crank shaft main pulley (another surprise)
No coolant temp sensor
No dip stick
Looks nice. Good to know how complete it comes. At least most of the little not included parts can be salvaged off the donor block. Can I ask what was the cost..?
Wonder if the original Loka-sil 1 is still being used on the blocks...?
Well, the point of this post is so that you can scavenge those parts BEFORE you pick up the new block. Then they give back your $7,500 core deposit as soon as you pick up the new block. And the cost of the new short block is $8K plus tax.
Thanks for the list
@yelcab
. Hopefully we can all add to this thread with more info including 3.6 short block info.
Still looks like the short block is a viable option if an owner doesn't want to incur the cost of upgrading their internal parts and increasing output with a rebuild.
Good to have options.
Additional info.
While the two chain ramps on bank2 are installed, the two ramps on bank 1 are not installed. They are included in a separate box. BUT, the two chain ramps bolts to install those ramps are NOT included. You have to buy those.
You know what else is included? A bunch of excess case sealant... and I am not impressed with this factory built workmanship. The rule of thumb is "if this much excess sealant is on the outside, there is the same amount on the inside" which will break off and block oil passages.
Now that I know my engine has the bore scoring eventual kiss of death, I�m looking into this factory short block option as it�s the most economically feasible.
My question is can I swap a 3.6L block in for my 3.4L block and still retain the rest of the parts, compatibility etc. (obviously I�ll be swapping in new parts where needed and having the heads reconditioned). Really just curious if I can do this. Maybe the only factory short block available is a 3.6L anyway?
They have both 3.4 and 3.6 factory short blocks. If you are looking for more power with the new short block, you can always get the heads done as well. Add in 200 cell cats as well and you will pick up some viable power.
This is an amazing thread. I know I have bore scoring and have been taking prudent steps (frequent Oil changes, Driven DI40, etc) to keep it from (quickly) getting worse, due to the great expense of a rebuild. This thread makes me wonder if there's another option: Remove the engine, buy the shortblock, transfer all accessories including heads to the new block and reinstalling. I can turn a wrench, but have never tackled an engine swap, which this job comes very close to. Could anyone comment on the likely effort involved? How about the approximate expense? Once the engine is removed and ensconced in my [garage, living room, dining room table], it seems like a mostly straightforward task of moving parts and hoses from old to new. I'm not looking for great detail, just high level stuff, like 'show-stoppers' or expensive 'gotchas'. Thanks in advance!
You can pick this up from your local dealership and save the shipping charge.
At the time of posting the price is $9,900, but be aware there is a $4700 core charge.
If and when I need to replace my engine I will most likely go this route.
Good luck 🍀
https://www.getporschesilverspringpa...996-100-996-TX
Maybe I can give some estimates.
Expenses: Any dealer is going to give you 10% or more just by asking. They do want to compete. In addition to the short block, you will need gaskets, spark plugs, ignition coils, AOS, coolant tank, maybe heat exchanger, hard to change AOS lines, rebuilt starter, rebuilt alternator. Let's say, $12K all in with fluids. (By comparison, I did my 997S the LNE way from scratch, and that was $10K all in)
As for tools, you absolutely need timing tools and know-how to use them. Normal hand tools with German flavors: torx, tripple square, allen sockets and all the rest of the metric bits. High quality torque wrenches of your choice. I have a set of Snap On torque wrenches. (Because I am done buying and throwing away Gearwrenches. Should have spent the money in the first place).
As for skills, the hardest is cam timing a 5-chain engine. There are plenty of instructions on here.
Labor: 40 hours book rate. DIY, count on 3x that. At least, you don't have to pay yourself.
Pacing of the project.
1. Drive down to the dealer and plunk down your credit card for $15K to order a block and the core charge. They will order it and it takes 4-6 weeks from Germany.
2. You now have 6 weeks to remove your engine, disassemble it and remove all the bits you want to re-use.
3. When they tell you that the engine is here, you pop the old block in the back of a pick up truck, drive it to the dealer where they will help you load the new block sans box on the truck, take your old block and immediately refund your core charge. ($7500 at Redwood City Porsche)
4. Reassemble your engine, put it back in the car, and you are done.
Thanks for that detailed answer! I've tackled timing belt replacement on a number of cars, but I can see that the job on the Porsche will be considerably more complex! I have a pretty good set of tools (except for triple square, which I can buy/borrow) but I'd have to acquire the specialized tools for setting up the camshaft timing. My next step is to watch some YT videos on that topic to see how difficult that part of the job is.
At the very least, you've given me a good guide to look at when considering next steps! I'm grateful for that!
(I'm halfway through my coilover install, and your guesstimate of 3x the book rate in terms of labor hours is pretty accurate in my case!
)
Well, way different.
1. 4.0L instead of 3.8L
2. Nikasil liners and not the factory Lokasil
3. Matched pistons.
4. Custom head gaskets.
it makes for a hell of a ride.
