18 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWorst dead battery scenario ever
Leading reported evidence
Use chrome door latch instead
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I just recenty had my battery go completely dead, I have only been driving about once every 7-10 days, the car was completely dead no lights no horn nothing, I had to use the fuse panel jump it would only pop the hood from the key, I am using a battery tender from now on in the winter, I also disconnected the wire that goes to the light under the hood, since my tender plugs into my battery.
Leading evidence: 'Use chrome door latch instead' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'older battery' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect wire' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Update: used a stronger/newer jump box and it worked!!!!
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
older battery
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Identified cause
1
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suspected cause
Guess the problem was an older battery that can't go 7-10 without a charger.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I just recenty had my battery go completely dead, I have only been driving about once every 7-10 days, the car was completely dead no lights no horn nothing, I had to use the fuse panel jump it would only pop the hood from the key, I am using a battery tender from now on in the winter, I also disconnected the wire that goes to the light under the hood, since my tender plugs into my battery.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Disconnect wire
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I just recenty had my battery go completely dead, I have only been driving about once every 7-10 days, the car was completely dead no lights no horn nothing, I had to use the fuse panel jump it would only pop the hood from the key, I am using a battery tender from now on in the winter, I also disconnected the wire that goes to the light under the hood, since my tender plugs into my battery.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I just recenty had my battery go completely dead, I have only been driving about once every 7-10 days, the car was completely dead no lights no horn nothing, I had to use the fuse panel jump it would only pop the hood from the key, I am using a battery tender from now on in the winter, I also disconnected the wire that goes to the light under the hood, since my tender plugs into my battery.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I just recenty had my battery go completely dead, I have only been driving about once every 7-10 days, the car was completely dead no lights no horn nothing, I had to use the fuse panel jump it would only pop the hood from the key, I am using a battery tender from now on in the winter, I also disconnected the wire that goes to the light under the hood, since my tender plugs into my battery.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Planet-9: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 1 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
I remember the first time I tried that method it didn't work because I wasn't getting a good ground connection where the owner's manual suggested.
Yes I've read every thread on this topic
Here's my issue: 2005 987s with dead battery (trickle charger was on it but the damn outlet tripped).
Key now locked in ignition
Tried:
Fuse box trick w75 amp jumper box. Nothing. Tried frunk release switch on doorside as well as key fob.
Tried removing key using little rod in fuse box. Ain't working
Opened both fenders and can't find wire. On driver side looks like the rubber grommet in the firewall is there but no cable.
I have no idea what to do next and I'm a few mins short of lighting the car on fire out of spite
Any ideas?
I had the same problem on my 2012
Cayman
R recently. On that car, there is a release wire up inside the front left wheel well. It comes out of the frame high up and in front of the wheel well, and has a small nub at its end to grab onto with a pair of pliers. It's a thin wire cable, similar in thickness to a bicycle brake cable. It does exit the frame through a rubber grommet. If the grommet you refer to is located in the same place as in the attached photo, you may be out of luck.
If you do locate the wire, note that once I found it, I really had to tug hard on it to get it to release. Don't be afraid to use some force. But if you do locate yours, it should open your frunk.
Good luck!
Do you have a spare battery kicking around (or a car you can pull up close to yours)? I seem to remember another post here where a booster box wasn't sufficient. Also, at least on mine (which is a
987.2
) you need to open the frunk with the key fob by holding the button for a couple of seconds. The inside switch will not work when using the spare battery method. I would continue to try the fuse box method. Make sure you get a good ground.
I assume you have the trickle charger turned back on? It may take a few hours but you may be able to bring your battery back from the dead with the trickle charger.
How long did you leave the jumper connected? Like zuch I think you may need more juice to flow in there. Your battery may be so dead that it sucked most of the current with the jumper briefly attached.
Make sure you are getting a good ground connection when you try the fuse box method. I remember the first time I tried that method it didn't work because I wasn't getting a good ground connection where the owner's manual suggested. I used the chrome door latch instead. If you are getting a good connection you should hear a relay pull in as soon as you connect the positive lead to the pullout connection in the fuse box. In order for you to hear the relay it has to be fairly quiet and you need to lean your head in close to the fuse box. That relay is the emergency start relay that supplies temporary power to one of the control modules so you can open the frunk.
I tried the key fob. No go (someone suggested it's because my key is stuck In the ignition?). I also previously had the trickle charger on the cigarette lighter for more than 24 hours with no success. I might just buy a new battery at this point.
Update: used a stronger/newer jump box and it worked!!!! I think battery is dead as I drove around for 15 mins and couldn't get the ignition to crank again. Going to sit it on trickle charger overnight and see if maybe it'll be happy tomorrow. If not, new battery time.
Hey don't mean to be the close the barn after the last horse escapes guy but anyone else? Leave the frunk on one click, it doesn't impact the car cover fit whatsoever and it 100% prevents this calamity every time.
A put a cut off piece of a hockey stick (carbon fiber of course) through the u-shaped frunk bracket so even if somebody leans on the frunk, it isn't going to lock.
I just recenty had my battery go completely dead, I have only been driving about once every 7-10 days, the car was completely dead no lights no horn nothing, I had to use the fuse panel jump it would only pop the hood from the key, I am using a battery tender from now on in the winter, I also disconnected the wire that goes to the light under the hood, since my tender plugs into my battery.
Guess the problem was an older battery that can't go 7-10 without a charger.
If it was totally dead it's either a bad battery that needs to be replaced or an electrical drain.
I had the exact same problem. I was ready to cut a hole in my hood. As a last resort, I plugged a fully charged Mighty Jump into my accessory (cigarette)port and pushed the frunk release button and much to my surprise, the damn thing worked!!! Best $30 I’ve ever spent. If that was the only use I ever get out of it, it was worth it.
