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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHThe pre-emptive engine rebuild?
Leading reported evidence
Install so not excessively heavier
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
there is only 28 grams difference between the two pistons with rings fitted so not excessively heavier.
Leading evidence: 'Install so not excessively heavier' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check )' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
My dilemma is this: with my current mileage at 95k and driving around 5k miles a year; at around 120k miles in 6 years time, regardless of whether it's bore-scored or whatever, the engine will anyway probably need it's timing chains replaced (plus everything else) so off it will go to Bolton.
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Suggestion
My view is if you see an increase in ppm of any of the below then it's time to take action (Millers metal particle list when checking):
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Suggestion
They also run quite well on the standard factory map and even with the standard map can gain around 30bhp without a map, it just drives nicer and gives you around another 15 or so bhp with the map
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
My dilemma is this: with my current mileage at 95k and driving around 5k miles a year; at around 120k miles in 6 years time, regardless of whether it's bore-scored or whatever, the engine will anyway probably need it's timing chains replaced (plus everything else) so off it will go to Bolton.
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
They also run quite well on the standard factory map and even with the standard map can gain around 30bhp without a map, it just drives nicer and gives you around another 15 or so bhp with the map
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11 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
As far as I see it, instead of moaning about the costs, instead I am glad that the 996 has such good active support that when the inevitable happens, there are a lot of good places to go and get it fixed.
I went into my 996 ownership with eyes-open, understanding the common thread topics and concerns and understanding that I was not buying a £16k car, but one that starts at £16k and includes lots of potential work to keep it tip-top, if not better than when I bought it. As far as I see it, instead of moaning about the costs, instead I am glad that the 996 has such good active support that when the inevitable happens, there are a lot of good places to go and get it fixed.
My dilemma is this: with my current mileage at 95k and driving around 5k miles a year; at around 120k miles in 6 years time, regardless of whether it's bore-scored or whatever, the engine will anyway probably need it's timing chains replaced (plus everything else) so off it will go to Bolton. If the engine pops before then, so be it.
However I read in issue 222 of GT Porsche (zoom into the link below for extracts of the article starting at Signs Of The Times) where Hartech mention crankshaft bearing wear leading to failure from 95k miles and if not addressed pre-emptively could lead to a new crankshaft being needed (+£3k plus)
https://www.instagram.com/p/B7rRuDSlZwQ/?utm_medium=copy_link
So my question is this: I'm sure I'm not the only one here with a 996 around the 100k mile mark; do you guys in the same situation consider doing a pre-emptive rebuild knowing it's coming anyway, or will you run it onwards until the engine gives up the ghost?
If you Google 'Hartech crankshaft bearings" you will see on their Facebook pages numerous examples of crankshaft bearings on their way out. Hartech themselves state they are not scaremongering but letting owners know the risks.
I'm on 155k. I send my oil off to Millers every year for them to inspect and do a metal particle count on. When that starts increasing or showing signs, then it'll be off to Hartech.
Have a read of a few here:
http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=140757
Do what Alex is doing and when you see the copper content rise by a meaningful amount then get it done. It may not even happen in your ownership. :thumb:
Mine's on 93k, I am doing 5k+ miles pa and am quietly saving for the inevitable engine rebuild which I will get done before I retire in 5 years time. My plan is to have the 3.9 conversion, so I will get this done as soon as I have saved up enough cash to complete it.
The car is going to stay with me until I keel over so I am happy to splash come cash on it. Some guys buy a retirement car, I already have it, so I will get it 100% tip top as my retirement prezzie to myself.
To the OP, save up, but only spend when you need to, and well done for going into 996 ownership with your eyes and mind open. :thumbs: :thumbs:
I'm in the same boat really, been saving for the rebuild since I bought the car, I think I'd want all six liners done with nicasyl, plus all the trimmings of chain guides, bearings, ims etc.
I was hoping to get to 110 but that's looking doubtful atm.
I'm on the fence about the 3.9 option- the cost of six new pistons notwithstanding, I worry about the extra cost of mapping, as well as having a custom mapped car from then onwards, so if your ecu fails you then need to get the replacement mapped (or flashed if you have a backup) again.
I also wonder if the 3.9 will rev as freely, with bigger, heavier pistons it seems like that would be the trade off.
To be fair the 3.9 does rev as freely as the old 3.6. there is only 28 grams difference between the two pistons with rings fitted so not excessively heavier.
They also run quite well on the standard factory map and even with the standard map can gain around 30bhp without a map, it just drives nicer and gives you around another 15 or so bhp with the map
Even though my engine is fresh I still plan on rebuilding again after 50-60k miles, mains, chains, guides etc as I have seen the wear several times and after that amount of time the engine is getting close to needing these items again.
The issue with running the mains down until you see copper coloured bits in the oil is that the damage may already be done, you have to look after that crankshaft and a preventive high mileage build may give it a much longer life?
Millers report checks ppm levels of various metals, not just copper. My view is if you see an increase in ppm of any of the below then it's time to take action (Millers metal particle list when checking):
Based on Alex's current mileage my 996.1 c2 may have 22 years driving left in her 3.4 with my average mileage of 2,500miles per annum 🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞
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