slight motor tic

I have a 2005 4s with 112k on the odo. After some spirited driving I can hear a slight motor tic when pulling in the garage. I took it to my local mechanic,but of course it wouldn't do it then! It seems to be on the drivers side (loudest at the exhaust) The car runs perfect,does not do it when cold.. I am getting ready to go to Sebring Friday (50 miles) Should I just turn the radio up and ignore it? Dave

How do you know if it was the engine ticking? Was it a rhythmic or consistent tick? You should hear my mufflers/cats ticking after a good hot run. It is also more obvious when against the wall in the garage. Could be nothing to worry about.

This is pretty common on the wet sump Carrera/Boxster/Cayman engines, especially after spirited, autocross, or track driving. The ticking noise is likely lifter noise due to oil starvation, which is resultant of a combination of factors: - degraded oil - high oil temps which further thins it - oil foaming in the pan which prevents the oil pick-up from efficiently suctioning and dispersing oil to the heads - high lateral g's causing oil build up in the heads, which starves the oil pan Quick fixes... 1. Change your oil to a more stable, robust option that can keep up with the elevated temps. (tons of debate on what the "correct" oil is, but fresh oil is always better than old oil in terms of protective properties) 2. Make sure your oil is topped off - ALWAYS! 3. Install an upgraded oil pan baffle to reduce oil slosh, foaming and to ensure oil is always available to the oil pick-up. 4. Don't run slick "race" tires at the track without first upgrading to an Accusump system

Thanks for your responses. It is a slow rhythmic tic at idle. Raise rpm's and it goes away(probably overcome by exhaust noise). Noticed it several weeks ago and had the oil changed with Mobil 1(5/40 I believe) but it still does it. I read a response by Jake Ruby that he stated to try some Marvel Mystery Oil. I might try that. Dave

I have the same issue on my 2000 996 C4S. Bought it last year, and took it to autocross twice, and to a local track to do some laps, and the valves tick once the oil warms up. I even installed a deeper oil pan which did not fix the problem. Goes away when driving after the event and the oil cools down. Normal driving/hard on the road does not heat the oil enough for the valves to tick... If you find a solution, please let me know. Jake suggested that I need a $10K U.S. engine teardown and rebuild to re-assemble the engine correctly... unfortunately, this is not in my plans at this time.

$10K for a Raby rebuild, did he lower his pricing?

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If that is indeed true, it means your motor is on its way out, hence his suggestion. he must of heard something bad to make that suggestion.

Motor rebuild,YIKES. Was hoping for a simpler solution. Maybe a loose muffler bearing!

I was responding to netrunnerz. I wouldn't panic yet. can you post a video of the ticking?

Just to clarify, Jake did not inspect my Porsche... I just messaged him asking his opinion on my engine problem. The Porsche that I purchased had the IMS bearing go on it in 2003? and was repared by Prestige Porsche in Montreal. They then sold it in 2004 to the person I bought it from last year. In 2004, all valve lifters were replaced as the previous owner complained about this ticking noise during warm weather... According to Prestige Porsche, the issue was fixed... their suggestion is not to bring it to the track.

Lots of ticking things on these cars I would start by checking plugs and exhaust. If it comes and goes it could be lifter related. According to the hive mind these engines throw sound around so where you think its coming from and where it is actually coming from can be different. Mine is currently getting rebuilt (tick that suddenly started combined with a filter full of shrapnel).

Maybe an oil cooler may help keep the temps more stable and keep the oil from thinning out too much also a third radiator at the front on the cooling system ??

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No. We have repair services for 10k, but prices for a reconstruction start at 18,500.00 Never any "cheaper".

So the ticking is only heard on a hot engine with hot oil . And you want a cheap solution. Suggest you begin with an oil +filter change to the most appropriate grade. JG DT40 is probably a good benchmark to compare alternatives. If you contact RND, they may still be offering the oil analysis deal.The UOA and an inspection of the filter and pan would also cost little and give more diagnostic clues. Without this it is just keyboard speculation. And that may soon become expensive see Post #13 above for detail$

Folks, I'm looking at a 2002 C4 with about 90k on the clock. Cosmetically in good shape (some top issues - I'll post on that in another thread), LN IMS retrofit 1 yr ago, clutch 1 yr ago, new brake rotors and pads, new rubber. Sure some dings and scratches on the front bumper, Litronics are yellowing a little. Decently optioned car. Asking $22,500. Started right up, no smoke, no smells. I took it for a little spin and pulled it over in a sunny spot (it is freezing in New England today) and gave it a closer look. Only thing that bothered me was some ticking in the engine. I've listened to all the ticking videos (scaring myself about piston slap, bore scoring, lifters, etc, etc) and I think this is a bit different. Sounds faster and lighter than most of the ticking vids I've seen. Sounded like it was from the back of the engine sounded like maybe the waterpump. Was definitely louder on the top of the engine than from down below. I did not really take the time to experiment as I was alone and didn't have anyone to help out with the gas pedal. Thinking I'll still go through with my offer and a PPI. and get it in the air to get a better listen and try to pinpoint it. Am I crazy? I have to admit, I'm getting some fatigue from hunting and finding nothing but expensive dogs and lower priced sh%t shows...hoping this one can work out...which is probably the wrong attitude.

Thank you for detailing your use of Search. Slight tick is similar to slightly pregnant ? It is worth testing for? FWIW at work, nobody "listens'" . Someone gets the Electronic Engine Ear, uses it(car on/off rack) to pinpoint the noise source and then several of us listen and discuss. Anything else is just WAG- for us at least - like you can read in the many ticking threads that you mention. There are just so many major/minor /odd causes.YEMV. You mentioned price and time - you may find better deals in later model Boxsters and Caymans? For that money you'd get a 9A1

Sounds like a noisy evap regen valve (right above the alternator). It's easy to confirm with a mechanic's stethoscope.

Schnell...yes, I honestly did realize the futility of posting a noise video. About as useful as trying to imitate noises for your mechanic (great fun on Car Talk, on NPR). We go through the same "what's this noise" video stuff on the Harley Forums I frequent, too. Vaguely amusing, but, overall, not extremely helpful. What I meant by "listen" was use an Engine Ear to try to find the source, during PPI. Hoping that all ticking is not created equally. Unfortunately, I don't want a Cayman or a Boxster. I had started out looking for the supposed "plenty of good 996's in the ~$20 range", I am not finding them and it looks to me that ship may have passed last year...at least in the Northeast. I'm finding guys selling cars with 7 owners, zero history, sketchy work, and high prices. Dealers with clean, low mileage cars asking almost $30k for a C2 with no updates. I just walked away from a good deal based on the outcome of the PPI. Its the second time I've gotten that far and the first time cost me airfare, hotel, car rental, vacation days, and the cost of the PPI's, lol. So, I'm getting a touch frustrated. Don't get me wrong, going and looking at cars IS fun, but of all the cars I've seen, I've found one with any kind of detailed history (I managed to worm it out of the Porsche dealership that serviced it) in good shape for about $25k, and I'd probably be willing to go there if I wasn't going to have to sink another $5k min to put a IMS retrofit and clutch in it plus put rubber on it to drive it home (11 year old rubber on the front, if you can believe it).

There is nothing so expensive as a poorly maintained Porsche - except maybe AM The last resort of bargain hunters are the salvage title cars but......................

Not sure what you are missing from what I wrote, Schnell...not looking for a "bargain" and that's twice you appear to be saying that I'm a bottom feeder who shouldn't be looking for a 911 (least that's how I'm reading it). These forums and stories in the magazines paint a picture of good quality 996's to be had in the ~$20 range. I haven't seen one yet. The one I looked at today...assuming the ticking is something relatively benign...might actually be the first.

You misconstrue mightily.Bye

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Then you have my apologies.

Accepted with Grace. Nothing wrong with wanting a bargain.The point is that it won't be the lowest price . I think we both agree on that. And the pundits who chatter about 20k cars - did they post details like you did or just post links to Craig's List ? I ask because I do not follow such threads. The best source I know for price data is the Dealer Auctions for off-lease cars. Most everything else is a punt because of lack of full knowledge. I'll repeat my very biased and probably useless advice - get to know some good Indies. Tell them what you want(& why!),that you will make a quick decision but want an Independent PPI and FSH. Ask specifically if they have any really good customer cars coming up for sale. They usually sell really fast and won't be advertised. Yes, it is a very slow process.They will hopefully have the lowest ownership cost,least risk ownership experience.The buying price is just one component. Let us know how it goes & good luck getting to know the Indies.

Yah, that is my next step. My uncle has an old relationship with the owner of a very good shop in CT, Automobile Associates...asked him to reach out to them.

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Engine noises are always tricky to diagnose but to my ear the noise sounds more like a water pump than anything else. Get the car in the air. Check the water pump very carefully for any leak sign. Also, feel the belt. If it has a sharp edge it is rubbing and it is rubbing because an accessory drive has too much bearing/shaft play. The most common accessory drive to develop this shaft/bearng play is the water pump. When you have the car in the air there should be someone with you that has more experience with these cars and can provide his feedback to help either confirm it is the water pump or it is coming from some other place and if then the presence of the noise should be considered a deal killer.

Thanks. If I or my mechanic don't feel sure it is water pump, alternator, regen valve, etc (ie, something that I can easily wrench) then it is a deal killer.

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Wise man, I'm unfortunately having to rebuild a ticking engine. Currently scored bores on two cylinders so its going to be a painful (financially speaking) process. I too was hunting for the bargain porsche I got way more than I bargained for!!! You live and learn. Good luck with the PPI. Its pretty easy to rule out the accessories, simply remove air cleaner and run without the belt for a few seconds (once its warm so you don't have to listen over the SAI). If its anything driven by the belt that should shut it up.