Yet another 'disc and pads' question

Hi, As a newbie owner, I have a question that I am sure has been asked before (well three actually). Why is there such a difference in price for OE and Porsche front discs for my 996? Is there any difference in performance? After all the dims are the same and it just converting rotational energy into heat. Why have Porsche quoted me £824.35 to do the job? I've changed discs on several cars and it's not a dificult job, or is it on 996? oops that was 4 questions.[ ]javascript:void(AddText('[ ]')) And one more. What discs and pads are a good make to get? Oh just one more, where from? Cheers Dave

It wouldn't be any different if you had a Merc. Same with all main dealers. Go for Sebro disks and Textar pads, and you won't go wrong. Try Type911, Design911, Euro Car Parts, Berlyn Services, etc, etc, etc.

There speaks the Author & Authority on all things 996 -whose new popular book is reviewed in July's edition of Octane-congratulations Richard.[ ]

Plus 1 for the Sebro Textar combination have done this on both a Boxster and 996 and it is an easy DIY job

Thanks Guys. Total for Sebro discs, Textar pads, pins and anti-squeal pads comes in at £362. Type911 do a Pagid kit for £202 but I don't want scrimp if it makes a big difference.

I have no personal experience of Pagid, but they are generally well regarded.

Have you tried Euro? They recently had a 30% sales on brakes. I picked up my Sebros from them. + 1 again for textar and sebro combo.

Textar and sebring are a good combo

Just quick a quick question or two. How may of the £20 dampening plates do I need? One each side or two? Want to order them now as Eurocarparts has 30% off as T1x mentoned (thanks). And do you always replace caliper bolts and pins each time?

Pagid and Textar are made by TMD Friction. Mintex is their budget range.

I just sourced my front discs and pads for £228 through a contact at GSF - this is for a Turbo

On the front, there are 4 dampening plates. On the rear there are 8 (two different sizes - round pads). I re-use the caliper bolts. Just make sure they are clean, undamaged, and rust-free, and apply some anti-seize compound to the threads. They are not stretch bolts, so although the book says to change them, I (and many others) don't feel it necessary. I also re-use the pins.

Thank you Richard. It's certainly reassuring having someone such as you, to check with. I haven't renewed caliper bolts before (even though the manual says do so) and it's good to hear it isn't always necessary.

Did the discs and pads this morning. Sebro and Textar combo. A very simple job indeed. Even the disc retaining screws came out without a problem. And the best bit, I invested in a a new torque wrench, which was brill. The old discs from the outside looked a little corroded, but the pads had some life still. But "Oh my god" the inside was a different matter. On the drivers side the pad was down to metal, and the disc surface was pitted and corroded badly. The calipers looked good, and all pots moved smooothly. But with the wear sensor in fresh air, why no warning light? I cleaned everything in WD40 followed by brake cleaner, and everything seems fine. Now just have to drive gently for a few miles to bed them in. Has anyone else seen such a difference from one disc surface to another?

Yes - that is normally what happens! Strange that the warning light didn't come on. It might be worth disconnecting the plug temporarily, to see if it comes on now. You should get a warning light if the sensor earths the signal, or if there is a break in the circuit.