Is it okay to repeatedly switch from Pagid Yellows to Textar?

I am building up a canyon and track car. I replaced the stock worn pads with Pagid 29s front and rear. I bed them as best I could on a long unused surface street. But i'm finding that in the few canyon runs i've done so far, I barely use the brakes and can't get the pads hot enough. So they squeal soooo bad at slow speeds. My primary concern is i'm going to glaze them (or have already). If i get a pair of Textar pads for everyday use, and only use the Pagid when I go to the track (and subsequent drive to and from track), is that going to cause any issues with the rotors? I read pagids transfer material to the rotor to work. I've only put maybe 100-150 miles on the Pagids so far.

Hey Ben. I wouldn't worry about glazing your Yellows. Tough to do on the street. Easy to do on the track. So the bedding process becomes pretty important. Sure, you can switch up your pads. I did it early on with my car back in the mid 2000s, but ended up just running Yellows year round on the street and track. It ended up becoming a bigger PITA to me to switch them, and have to bed them in every time for the track. But you may enjoy doing it so go for it if it makes sense for you. What I have found in Chicago with the 4 seasons, is that the squeeling is minimal regardless of temps if the yellows have been properly bedded. If not, they will make quite a bit of noise. Yep, and lots of dust as well. But they are abrasive and will stop the car when you ask them too. Which is why I run them year round on the street and track. Hope it helps.

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So they need to be re-bedded each time they are flip flopped?

Just get a set of Ferodo DS3.12s and run them year round. They're fantastic on the track and do just fine on the street. No squeeling at all. They bite just as well as OEM pads when cold and just get better with heat. I've even had them on for a few ski trips.

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Yes. After the first time the pads indeed have been bedded in but what you need to reapply by the same procedure is transfer pagid yellow pad material (in an evenly distributed layer) onto the disc. After you refit them drive the car as you do in public traffic, i.e. brake gently. That will remove the layer of your 'daily' pads. After that you transfer a layer of pagid yellow by following the bedding-in procedure. That's when they work best

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Thanks, I did not know that. I can deal with the squealing (barely, it's so so so loud), but I am more worried about glazing--- but I am also more worried about it because people say, "you're going to glaze them and then they won't work anymore". And I don't know how to know when that will be. Hopefully, I don't find that out in turn one at Big Willow...

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You won't develop enough heat on the street to glaze them. glazing occurs on the track from not bedding in the brakes properly and then heavy braking which generates alot of heat. Same with riding the brakes. It's common for novices to do this. Quite frankly, just driving around town will start the bedding process. Tomorrow, I am getting a new set of rotors, Pagid yellows and a new 997 GT3 master cylinder put on my car in prep for our first track day of the season next month. So I will drive the car around town locally for the next couple of weeks to start the bedding (transfer) process. Then I will go to a large local parking lot and do about 10 runs at 30 mph and then moderate braking. Then 10 60 mph runs with heavier braking. Then I will go on the freeway and do a couple of high speed exits with heavy straight line braking at much higher speeds. When I get to the track I use the first couple of laps to further bed them. It's not a tough process to do. but if you want to get rid of the squeeling from racing pads, its something you gotta do. But the good news is that you will have substabtially better stopping power than street pads. Quite frankly, i doubt i will ever run street pads ever again on my 996. I like the stopping power too much.

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Thanks.. that's reassuring. Now I just have to commit to a set of coil overs! Unexpected budget used for IMSB, seals, and "white-you're-in-there" Clutch....

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Good to see you the newest member of the "while you are in there" club. Just wait until you go thru countless oil changes, brake fluid changes, brakes and tires in a season if you do become a track rat. But it is good clean fun versus many of the other alternatives.

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Oh and the UAOS installed at same time. Yeh, those consumables I'm trying to ignore for now

It will cost you a couple of bucks, but you will have a smile from ear to ear. A picture of my rear rotors for my Brembo GT big brake kit. Expensive but worth it. Stopping power is incredible, plus the floating hat system helps with cooling.

I never had any problems swapping yellows for the drive to and from the track, then back to OEM. Maybe a few hard stops on the way to the track to clean off the rotors and/or a bit easy the first few laps. As you�ve also found, oem > Pagid for canyons. I was hoping the DS3.12 would be the one for everything, but they squealed for me on the street too.

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I shot a video on this a long time ago (below). Pretty much all pads used on iron discs work best when there is a pad transfer layer on the discs. That is created when you bed them in. However, your main goal should be to scrub off that transfer layer prior to swapping to a different pad compound. This can be done with whatever race pads you have at the time, in this case the Pagid Yellows. Lots of other brake tips, tricks, and knowledge in our Essex Learning Center: https://www.essexparts.com/support/learning-center--faq You Tube Here's a video on how to bed-in any brake pad: You Tube

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Ok I'm still worried about glazing, so coming back for more re-assurance. The track build is going slower than expected and I'll likely be bouncing around on the canyons for a while I source suspension. I did a full run of the canyons yesterday and honestly, it's really hard to get enough speed to justify braking hard in the canyons. Even driving hard, you just don't have enough room and the engine RPMs are 80% of the speed reduction needed into a turn. The brakes were squealing lightly even after 45 mins of driving. While you can really get moving in Angeles Crest but the car is just too good at taking the turns-- even with my 76k suspension and so-so Conti tires (which I'm just using up since they came with the car). So is it worth it to keep the Pagid's on? I didn't know the rotors were pairing with the pads, so that's what's throwing me about just going Textar for now till I actually go to the track...

Ben, if you are that worried about the yellows, squeeling and rotor wear, it may make more sense to run the best street pad you can find that can be run on an occasional track day.

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I just don't know what I don't know. I can put up with squealing, I only reference that as I think it indicates I'm not getting them anywhere near hot enough and worried that's going to degrade the performance of them when I need it. I have commitment problems if it's isn't already obvious

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Nah, street driving and canyon driving wont hurt them. You need huge consistent heat to glaze them. You wont get that on any canyon or street. Like I said in a previous post, I run them around town. Biggest issue is all the dust. But it's easy enough to wash off. It's a small price to pay for exceptional braking when someone does something silling in front of you on the street or highway. But there is no harm in going with a high performance street pad either.

I'll second what GC996 said. I was too lazy to constantly change them after each DE so for years I just ran Pagid Yellows non-stop on the car during track season (Mar-Nov). Dust was the biggest factor and the squeal just became something I ignored. Currently my track car (1999 996C2) doesn't get driven much so track pads (PFC08s typically) stay on year round. -KJ

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KJ, for sure. When I was new to the track, I thought it was great to be able to adjust my coilovers and sway bars between street and track setting. Same with switching pads. Then I realized how much of a pita it was and kept everything set for the track for the last 18 years. What are your thoughts on the PFC pads? My indy highly recommends them.

I really like the PFCs. I’d been a Pagid user since the Oranges were in vogue back in the early-mid 2000s. Pagids benefit from a finicky break-in whereas I just throw on the PFCs, make some heavy stops on my out lap and then go. I also found that Pagid Yellows tend to “heat cycle” (not correct, but my terminology) and by 50% of wear they have lost a noticeable amount of performance. I can run the PFCs down to backing plate width if necessary. Mind you, all of this is based on my personal experience so YMMV. -KJ

Pagid make a pad called Street+. It is designed just for this reason. Street-able and track-able pad. Just not a race pad.

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Thanks. That's good to know. I will try them out after i wear down my new yellows. I understand they are US made and high quality, not to mention a little less expensive than Pagids. Don't know where the tarrif shuffle is ultimately going, so its good to have local manufacturers to contain costs. Just had my car in the shop for new tie rods, rotors and yellows, as well as alignment for the start of track season.

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Haven't tried it, but Pagid makes great pads. Should be a viable option for many.

I use PFC08 and they are incredible. I just changed the front ones after about 50 track days and they had a little more to give. They are surprisingly quiet too. Very dusty and the dust is corrosive so I wash the wheels off the car after every track day.

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Very good to hear. I have been running their PFC RH665 Brake Fluid. It handles the heat well.

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My apologies for detailing this thread, but could you share your alignment values? Are they the same as your previous alignment, or are you trying something new?

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Last couple of years I have mostly been running -1.5 F and -2 R. Since the car does double duty on the street and track, it's worked well for a reasonable balance. But I have changed it to less for a couple of long distance highway trips recently.

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Thanks man. I wonder how much faster you�d be on track with an all-out track alignment.. hmm?

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For sure, it's a balancing act. The great thing with the 996 is it's easy to dial it up or down depending on what you want. Right now, I am looking for a street and track combo. Who knows, maybe I will decide to dial it up again after I settle on a rebuild. Dunno. You would be surprised how fast the 996 is on the track with a solid street/track configuration. I am still competitive in the fastest run group, but the newer models with all the power are tough to catch on the straights. But the 996 is more fun to drive.