Alignment problem. Help me understand :)

I had a local Porsche shop install HR springs on my 996.2 I measured before and after, It dropped about 1 inch, I measured it. I picked up the car and found -3 degrees negative camber and .010 rear toe. I was told the camber cannot be adjusted and if you try, you cannot get the toe aligned. A post here told me I had to buy Adjustable rear Toe arms. I installed those with Lock out bolts for the Toe arm. It went to a different alignment shop as the Porsche shop won't return my messages. The alignment shop calls and says The Rear is -3 camber and there is no more adjustment. The toe is aligned to spec. I called the company that makes the Toe arms, and they said to adjust the camber first, then the Toe. The shop sends a picture showing the rear toe adjustment maxed. Is this expected? Do I really need adjustable toe arms and adjustable Camber arms to lower this car 1 inch? This car won't be tracked. It's a toy and goes on drives and rallies. -3 sounds like a ton of rear camber.

The camber is adjusted with an ecentric bolt/washer. It is adjustable a few degrees. Maybe the shop misunderstood what u wanted? Did u tell them to dial the camber to stock or to max out the camber? Ask the shop what the minimum and max camber setting they could get. If u cant get the correct camber then u need a gt3 adjustable style lower control arm or adjustable upper dog bones.

They said if I got the Toe arms, they could get the camber back. Yes, I understand how to adjust it with the bolt. Its maxed out there and sitting at -3.15 each side. Toe is correct. I will have to order the adjustable camber arms now. This is wild as the car is lowered 1 inch. I wanted to make sure this is normal and there was not some Gotcha. C

Ok i dont understand what your end goal is. Do u just want your car lowered and factory c2 spec or gt3 spec? Do u want a track spec? Im guessing not since u said its for the street. Yes its normal to need adjustable toe links when lowering and its normal to get increased camber when lowering. Again what is your end game because 3.0* negative is very aggresive. I run 3.4* in the back and its a 80% track car

I think what he's saying is that he wants the car lowered 1" and to have a typical "street" camber of -1.5* but the shop can't get it lower (or, higher, I guess) than -3.15*. Is the alignment shop a Porsche specialist or a Firestone Tire Shop or something in between? My guess is that they're setting the toe first and can't get the camber dialed, but they should be going camber first and then moving the toe.

Its been to two places now. A Porsche shop who left it at -3 and not even equal. Then I installed the Adjustable toe arms and took it to an alignment shop that specializes in German cars. They can't get it aligned either. They align half a dozen 911s a week. I am asking if this is normal for a 1 inch drop. The camber adjusters are maxed out. The toe is perfect. I just raised the rear using a jack, 1 and even 1.5 inches exactly and there is nowhere near factory toe of -1.5 Its still -2.7 So I am asking and trying to figure out why. Thanks!

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I know every car is different but this seems strange. I installed KW coilovers on my turbo a few months ago and I�m pretty low. I didn�t replace anything else besides drop links. This is where I ended up at my local Indy:

my car with stock rear except for h&r lowering springs and b8 shocks when you look at the lca eccentric bolt it�s all the way inboard? I ask because you say it�s maxed out which usually would mean outboard, more camber

That is crazy . Doesn't make sense to me either. Take and post photos of the eccentric camber bolts.

Tonight, I decided to measure the rear. When it was stock, the fender to ground on the rear was 26.7. Center the tape in the wheel cap to measure. After the HR springs it was 25.25 So a bit over an inch. I measured it tonight, its 24.5! So the HR springs have sagged or something else has lowered the rear. Its slammed now. The front went down 1 inch and stayed there. It's the same as it was now as it was when I got the car back. So the rear has squatted way down. The camber is at -3.2. I am unsure how this happened. I will have to return it to stock at this point. The HR springs have dropped the car almost 3 inches!!! No wonder there is so much camber. option 1. Put stock rear springs back in and pay for yet another alignment and leave the HR up front down 1. Option 2. Buy coil overs and do all of this over again.

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I thought I posted this last night. The issues is Solved. They installed C2 springs. HR makes two sets of springs for the 996. The C2 and then springs for the C4/Targa/Cab/Turbo. This is the -2 part number spring kit. The front springs are the same in both kits. The rear springs are different. They are taller and stiffer to accommodate the heavier cars. Mine is a targa. I have to buy a new set of springs again as they don't sell just the rears. Then have to install them either myself or take it to a shop. I also noticed the stock rubber spring perches are old and collapsed. They were not replaced. I have the new rubber parts on the way also. Those could be a half inch alone. I suspect the HR is going to raise it 1 inch. So hoping for 1.5 inch rear lift. So this explains why the car sits so low in the back and then later, the springs settled even more,

DIY the rears are super easy�

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yeah. I can do it. Just gotta find the time man. C

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Thats the perfect alignment for canyon carver/track set up. Not overly aggressive in rear camber but just enough to keep max available traction and under-steer easily controllable. 0 toe is also what I run. Makes for the best turn in and stability without any darty-ness. See many track/canyon set ups that have way to much rear camber making driver constantly fighting to counter understeer with constant adjustments all thru corners. A little less camber makes for a much more neutral easier/stable to max out setup imho. Must be fun pushing that 2000lb 996 around the track with that set up.

I have the opposite problem. Put new shocks on all four corners (also new control arms, but no change in springs), and the passenger rear is sitting an inch too high. Hoping that it settles with some miles, but feels like a long way to drop.

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Why would the C4 be heavier at the rear than a C2? I find these springs, all for the n/a engines up to 254kW PORSCHE 911 Cabrio Targa 996 H&R p/n 29513-2 PORSCHE 911 996 coup� C2 H&R p/n 29513-1 PORSCHE 911 Cabrio 996 C4 and C4S H&R p/n 29466-2 PORSCHE 911 996 coup� C4 and C4S H&R p/n 29466-1 You now got the first p/n listed, I take it?

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Basically no - or -1 in some catalogs are standard rear and front 1.25 inch drop. -2 means heavier rear springs. it lists them as -2 Cab/targa/C4/turbo in the catalog I have online. I suspect the 29466 kit, has heavier front springs also as the front would weigh more. But either way. The car should have the -2 C

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Did you also get new spring perches and tops? I think the gas charged shocks add some height if new. Then new rubber donuts and perches add some height. I would be interested of people would measure from fender to ground with the tape aligned through the center wheel cap. Then we can see. Stock: 26.7 inches HR C2 springs 24.5 I have ordered the -2 spring kit, New perches, new tops and adjustable camber arms. I think this will raise it 1 inch. I will report back. I am worried it will be to low still. C

I am not sure I follow. There are two spring kits with -2 part number. Which one did you get?

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My car requires the -2 kit. They installed the -1 kit for a C2. This resulted in a 2 plus inch rear drop and it cannot be aligned.

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New shocks, bump stops, rubber seat, and top mount. Re-used springs, bellows, washer, concave washers, and the plastic bit between the rubber seat and top mount. Driver side is right at 26.5" (stock height) but passenger side is still hanging up at ~27.25" ground-to-fender. Hoping that it will settle another 0.75"... The only thing I can think of here is if the rubber seat somehow wasn't aligned...but I don't really think that's possible.

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Mine was equal left to right on the front factory and lowered. This is certainly odd. How is the rear?

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This is only the rear - fronts are good.

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Sorry I mis understood. This is certainly odd. 3/4 is a lot really. I would get under there and inspect the bushings. I would also like to know if the two Camber adjustment bolts are close to the same or way off. If they are way off to get it back in alignment, I would then dig deaper. C

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All new control arms / bushings. It's possible that the drivers' side (which is the correct ride height) was not fully raised up when I torqued it, but it would have been no more than an inch too low and I can't believe that would twist the other side 0.75"....I'm going to give it a few miles to settle in before I go too deep.

If u ever put your car on a 4 wheel scale, weighed for a driver u would be supprised at how far off the corner weights are. Its difficult with good c/o to get it even.

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In another thread I read that this can happen if they trq the bolts down with the wheels hanging like you mention. C

Have to wrap my head around it...but in the parking lot at work, the distance was pretty close - 26.75 on the drivers side and 27.00 on the passenger side. Then when I got home (75 miles on the road) I measured in my driveway, which I would perceive to be level but I know is sloped a bit left-to-right (driver to passenger). Sure enough, the gap is back up to 27.25 / 26.5. I guess this is a case that the suspension is actually just doing its job correctly?