Cayman S Owners Manual Online

RennTech.org has the entire 280 page manual online - pdf format - about 5 meg - wonderful. If I wasn't such a dope, I could upload it for you. Maybe one of you younf techies could do that !

It looks like it is too big to upload. K-Man S will have to do this. Available at: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?act=Downloadsb&do=downloadv&id=833 Registration required. From the manual: <p align="left">Despite the most modern, high-precision manufacturing methods, it cannot be completely avoided that the moving parts have to wear in with each other. This wearing-in occurs mainly in the first 2,000 miles/3,000 km. <p align="left">Therefore: <p align="left">f Preferably take longer trips. <p align="left">f Avoid frequent cold starts with short-distance driving whenever possible. <p align="left">f Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops. <p align="left">f Do not exceed maximum engine speed of 4,200 rpm (revolutions per minute). <p align="left">f Do not run a cold engine at high rpm either in Neutral or in gear. <p align="left">f Do not let the engine labor, especially when driving uphill. Shift to the next lower gear in time (use the most favorable rpm range). <p align="left">f Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period. <p align="left">f Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, etc. during the first 2,000 miles/3,000 kilometers. f <p align="left">There may be a slight stiffness in the steering, gear-shifting or other controls during the break-in period which will gradually disappear.

2000 mile break-in on a car that I'll probably put less than 5,000 miles on in the first year. That will seem as long as the wait for the car itself.

Thanks Rick! That is just too nice!! What a great preview of the Cayman's functions. Aloha Russ Edited by - RussK on 11/01/2005 9:18:14 PM

Actually the manual has been online here all day but I forgot to make it publicly viewable, it is now publicly viewable in the Files section see: Cayman S Owners Manual Here

BTW, the break-in stuff was written by attorneys, not engineers... buy the car and drive it like you stole it. I babied my 996 and it burned lots of oil, I thrashed my 987 from the get-go and it used nary a drop of oil. Every Porsche engineer I've ever talked to has said the same thing, the legal department makes them put that in there, but engineering will say differently.

Everytime I read something new I just get more excited! Wow is this what it is like to be a kid again!! Aloha Russ

The Caymanbreak-in period is less than for the 911, which is 4,000 miles.

I only drive around 2000 miles per year! It is a small Island and you can only drive around it so many times. Aloha Russ

I like what you're saying K-Man. You seriously reckon you can thrash it from the go-get?...exactly what I plan to do.

I reckon so but I don't want to get into this debate again, suffice it to say some people follow different break-in procedures but there has never been any scientific study done that I am aware of comparing the two different methods over the lifecycle of a car. I'm not trying to tell others how to break in their cars, only how I choose to break in mine.

I thought it was common knowledge that of you break in an engine too soft that rings don't seat properly and it's slightly low on compression the rest of its life. Therefore burning oil and having a little less power.Take the worst case scenario, start a brand new engine and let itidle for 30 or 40 hours.I believe it would be suffer from both of those problems. But the statement that moving parts have to wear in is a fact. Again, take the worst case scenario, start a brand newengine and drag race it before it warms up even once! I believe that would shorten engine life, if notbreak it. Racers (of anything; boats, cars, motorcycles...) don't pull up to the starting line with brand new engines, they break them in. K-Man is right though that this comes from lawers and they don't care if engines are down on power or burn oil, only if they break under warranty! I agree with the advice about not driving it around luke warm during break-in. Don't race it, but don't baby it either. Vary the load and RPMs. Of course, whatever pros or cons your break-in procedures bring diminish rapidly. All this really only matters significantly during about the first tank of gas or so. It's hours that matter, not miles. Edited by - chrismillion on 11/02/2005 7:34:13 PM

My dealer, who races cars and has owned many porsches over the years, told me to watch the oil temperature. Once its over 175 degrees, run that engine with no limit. He claims that before being shipped out the engine has already been pushed to extreme conditions during testing and that the car has already been dyno'd. This is the logic for the no/low break in period. Of course, he mentions to take care and only push the car occasionally, exercising all the gears and varying the speeds. Other than that, he mentioned that after 2000 miles, I can start driving it like a complete maniac. Before 2000 miles, watch the oil temp and occasionally drive like maniac.

The thing I find strange is that Porsche doesn't suggest varying engine speed during break-in. I have usually followed the manufacturer's recommendations while giving it a bit more gas and going a bit higher on the revs to put the engine under greater load. I haven't driventhem like I have stolenthem until after the recommend break-in period. I have never had major engine problems and only one or two have needed oil added between changes. Most don't use a drop. I bought a new Ducati at the same time as one of the salesman. He popped a wheelie within the first mile and beat on the motorcycle relentlessly. I pretty much followed Ducati's recommendations and when I opened it up at 1,500 miles it threw a bearing and the engine seized. It was fixed under warranty but the salesman's bike ran flawlessly. It definitely made me think twice about the drove it like you stole it school of thought. Edited by - BiggerTwin on 11/03/2005 09:58:51 AM

Never, ever, ever, get on a cold engine!!! Your dealer is absolutely correct-o-mundo!!

Just be reasonably sensible for the first 500 miles is my motto. My last two cars I've broken in were an S2000 and 3.0litre Z4. Consensus of opinions I've canvassed from dealers and owners before and adopted myself is only used 80% of the rev range and dont throwit around like a madman for the first 500 miles. Regardless of miles keep the rev's below c.70% until its fully warmed up. Then........

While back I picked up a book on car break-in - it has the usual don't rev, send oil for testing, etc bit ( which I followed more or less on all my cars ), but one thing that is interesting was on the paint break-in - he was suggesting that paint needs to break-in, and the big recommendation was to wash the car frequently and use a lot of water. Peter

Euroboy, Does it say anything about when you can start applying wax to the paint? Aloha Russ

I have not looked at the book for a while - if I can still find it at home will check it. I think the main point was to keep the car clean during the first few months and use lots and lots of water. As we all know paint and other technologies are improved each day, so this may be less of an issue now, but I prefer to error on the side of caution.

I'm not buying 'paint break-in'. BS...

It used to be true. The paint would cure the first 90 days and you weren't supposed to wax it. With modern paint and clear coat, I don't think this is true anymore

Never put a cold engine under load, no matter how much it has been broken it. I used to race, and whenever you put in a new engine, you always break it in by varying the revs over the complete range. I doesn't have to be as long as 2000 miles, but you have to give things a chance to seat.