Cheap power brake bleeder

Don’t waste your time with hand pump bottles or pumping the brakes (like me). This is cheap and easy. The red part in the picture is an air filter which is not really nessecary. Set it to 2 bar. https://www.harborfreight.com/125-psi-air-flow-regulator-with-gauge-62695.html Porsche Motive Products 45mm European Adapter Kit for Power Bleeder PEL.1100 PEL1100 PEL 1100 | Pelican Parts Motive Products 45mm European Adapter Kit for Power Bleeder InStock Ships Today!. Call (310)626-8765. May Qualify For FREE SHIPPING. Parts# PEL 1100 PEL.1100 PEL1100. www.pelicanparts.com

Details? You use compressed air to force the old fluid out? How do you introduce new fluid without putting air in the brake lines?

I have the Motive Power Bleeder and it is a must have if you do clutch and brake flushing https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/power-brake-bleeder-motive-mot0100?ads_cmpid=21626320523&ads_adid=174977201028&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=710927653121&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-301282657332&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4-y8BhC3ARIsAHmjC_E-5ARgzzUQPkxoDn9IgnWNRKxUQ4Za8ENe7GdoS8DrKZxHx0dRXa8aAuWFEALw_wcB

It’s attached to an air compressor. You have to disconnect it and refill the reservoir when it gets low. its much easier and cheaper than the Motive power bleeder.

That's not a bad idea minus the having to constantly refill. I have the Motive bleeder too and I ended up way overfilling the reservoir with fluid and making a big mess. I could have been doing it wrong it was the first time using it.

Neat, @sstearns2 - Wish I knew of this a while back. Absolutely no question that a pressure bleed is the way to go -- it's a total game changer. I'm a huge fan of the Motive. I borrowed one from a friend of mine a few years ago, and vowed to never go back. However, the high price kept me away until I found a lightly used on used on Facebook Marketplace a few years back for roughly half price (I think). As I like things generally tidy, I did the "dry" method -- which is akin to what you've got there -- which meant regularly refilling the reservoir after each corner for a serious flush. But after accidentally letting it run dry and having to start over once or twice, the last time I did it I did the "wet" method (simply filling the Motive canister with brake fluid) and just let it roll. The only rate limiter in this case was my having to empty the bleed bottle. The only PITA was cleaning the brake fluid out of the canister when I was done, but not a big deal -- especially with a final swish of isopropyl alcohol. FWIW, I also used the Motive canister for a low pressure and cold coolant pressure leak test, by just swapping out the connector and borrowing a free rental kit from my FLAPS. Again - a fantastic contribution here! Thanks for posting this.

stearns2: Noticed your battery hold-down device. Curious, is that a home fabrication or an aftermarket device?

KillerBs; what I do to avoid making a mess after you use the Power Bleeder, I simply 'tilt' the bottle on its side (to keep it from sucking more fluid from the bottom) keeping an eye on the bubbles inside the clear rubber tube and just open the bleeder to get the excess fluid from the top of the reservoir, then close the bleeder, get the Motive bottle upright again and release the pressure, this way you don't make any mess..

I never have put fluid inside the Motive, I use it as a push system and take the extra time to fill the reservoir after each wheel.

Good tip. I was going to try something next time for sure, and that sounds like a good way. Didn't think about it and finished all the brakes then just released the pressure and took the cap off. Except then the reservoir was filled to the brim of course. Another tip, don't sit the hose on a hot turbo. It's a great tool though compared to other ways I've done it. My S2000 general guidance is gravity bleed, and that takes ages .

The air compressor setup looks like a great idea. I’ve been using my power bleeder dry. I’ve found it easier than cleaning out the container. one thing that has helped is a shut off valve. See pic. By using the shut off valve, I can undo the cap of the brake fluid reservoir without losing pressure in my power bleeder. It saves a lot of pumping. Of course, a compressor saves even more pumping. 😀

Now that’s a sweet idea PorscheGreg, where did you source the parts? My motive is old so it does not have the port built into the new units to add air via a compressor. Your solution adds another convenience, being able to remove the cap without rotating the entire unit.

I think I got the idea from our forum here. Not sure how to find the post. It’s been a few years. I’m 95% sure i got the shut off valve at Home Depot. Saves a ton of time and pumping when bleeding brakes. It makes the dry bleed even more advantageous because the time it takes to fill and start bleeding at the next location is greatly reduced. And of course, you don’t have the time or mess dealing with the brake fluid left in the bleeder when finished.

Do you have to do anything special for the ABS, or is it just like any regular brake bleed? Should do mine, but I’ve only done the brake bleed the old fashioned way on older cars. thanks guys

PIWIS and other P car specific scanners have a special function that allows you to individually activate the ABS pump for each corner. This would purse any air or old fluid internal to the pump. I believe from there ABS just uses the same individual brake lines as the master cylinder. I also understand that if you go to a dealer to get a "flush", they don't necessarily activate the ABS and is not specifically mentioned as a routine item in the service manual except as required after air has been introduced into the brake system (such as master cylinder work). Some people do it routinely as part of the fluid flush, and if a bleed is necessary I would definitely include ABS. In my case I haven't felt it necessary to also do ABS but I'm sure others will disagree.

Planning on purchasing a scan tool, most likely the Foxwell NT530 , but how is the tool used for bleeding the ABS valve and system? Does one activate the ’sequence’ or ’code’ on the scanner while the system is pressurized? Or do you activate the scanner and then proceed with the normal bleed process. From some of the posts I’ve read about the tool it doesn’t come with a lot of instructions and it seems it takes some intuition and probing to get the results you expect.

It's been a while and I have the Durametric Enthusiast, so others might have a slightly different functionality. There is an ABS activation menu section that lets you activate (on/off) the ABS pump individually for each corner. IIRC, Don wrote up the procedure he (or his mechanic) uses. This topic comes up regularly so maybe a search will turn it up. Actually I'm surprised Don hasn't already chimed-in on this subject. He is an advocate of bleeding ABS routinely.

Here's a post which talks about he @deilenberger did the bleed on a 981 with the Foxwell. It's likely the same process on the 987: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/ab...m/threads/abs-brake-bleed-flush-with-piwis.255606/?post_id=2228031#post-2228031

I did do a post on doing a flush - a long time ago.. If I have more time I'll dig it out... And yes - I'm a fan of activating the ABS/PSM modulator (it does both functions.. so it's actually a fairly active little bugger if you drive the car with any enthusiasm.) I've taken my Cayenne to the dealer for a brake flush (I wanted to get the new Cayenne loaner to see if I liked it enough to pay the silly money they want for it - I didn't... but I digress.) And yes - they don't call for doing the ABS/ PCM activation as part of a fluid flush, and the car returned with a softer pedal than it went in with. That wasn't altogether bad since it made it easier to activate the start switch on the brake booster to start the car after the booster lost vacuum - which mine does in about 24 hours..) SO, yes I'm a fan of doing it. I've felt fairly dramatic differences in brake feel after doing it, and the issue isn't old fluid in the modulator (it's used enough for PSM that the fluid is moved around) - the issue is air getting trapped in it. When I've felt a large difference between before and after flushing/ABS- PCM activation - my mechanic noted that he saw a large air bubble in the drain hose he was using when I activated the system. So there was air in it - and the pedal became quite firm after that. How did the air get in? Dunno - maybe a Porsche dealer did it last time..

BTW - I wouldn't skip the red thing.. unless the compressor has a moisture removing thingie on it. Compressing air compresses water vapor in the air and it turns into .. water. You don't want to inject water into the brake system this way. My HF compressor is somewhat modified with a water separator and I replaced the cheap faulty ball-valve HF put on it with a real one... My water separator somehow opens and drains when it loses pressure (compressor off) and then seals up when the system is pressurized again.

It’s aftermarket… got it on Pelican. The Oddessy AGM battery saves about 30 pounds.

I had a soft pedal, but usable brakes after I did the full ABS bleed. I drove the car and worked the brakes for a few minutes, then bled each caliper again and got a firm pedal. The dealer may not do the second bleed which seems to be essential.

The NT530 tells you what to do on the screen.