17 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHKeyfob lock unlock not working
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect battery
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Final thoughts: Would disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, then retry using the fob work?
And finally I disconnected the battery for an hour before reconnecting it and then proceeded to follow all my original steps with the addition of your possible fix, and still no satisfaction.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect battery' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect battery' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I just installed new LED lights to replace the halogen (just plug and play with Sylvania H7 bulbs.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I installed LED puddle lights on my 996.1 and all of a sudden my key fob stopped working for locking the car for the X number of seconds the lights stay on after shutting the door.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
And finally I disconnected the battery for an hour before reconnecting it and then proceeded to follow all my original steps with the addition of your possible fix, and still no satisfaction.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I installed LED puddle lights on my 996.1 and all of a sudden my key fob stopped working for locking the car for the X number of seconds the lights stay on after shutting the door.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
For that I need to look into my directory that has all the Porsche information I've collated to find the proper fuse positions and if there is an entry for the door and remote, then test the fuse(s).
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
My problem is that the micro switches were worn and simply did not work.
The locks and flashers worked a few weeks back after getting the car out of 5 months in the shop being completely repainted. Then it quit working last week.
Troubleshooting steps:
1)
Replaced the battery with a cheap CVS 2032. No joy.
The sensor on the dash flashes with the keyfob button depressed, but it still would not unlock/lock..Lock/unlock sequence worked if I locked it manuallyt, then remove the key then pressing the button. This resulted in it unlocking and locking and the flasher working on the lock cycle. But it only does this once. After the initial lock/unlock sequence ran, it would not activate again until the process was repeated. I could remove the key after the car unlocked and then lock it again from a distance.
2)
Replaced the CVS battery with a Duracell 2032. Again, no joy, no flashers, and no repeating lock/unlock sequence. Using the same procedure above, the result was the same. The lock/unlock sequence only cycled once. It would not recycle without repeating the same steps.
3)
Searched Google for 'Porsche 996 keyfob not working' then followed the steps there,
a
)
It was suggested to start the car and then lock/unlock with the keyfob several times (no other steps such as the one I list above). Not this made much sense since the details were lacking. Lock/unlock with the engine running? Huh. so much for AI overview.
Cold day in hell
4)
Go to the dealer and have it calibrated.
Final thoughts: Would disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, then retry using the fob work? Details are lacking and the manual never covers this eventuality. (ok, I'm lazy.)
Try locking/unlocking the car with the key then open the door and turn ON the ignition and press the lock button all within " 5 SECONDS " .......see if that works..
If it doesn't you will need someone with a PIWIS and the teaching/learning codes...
I'm not quite sure what you mean. I locked it on the door, then unlocked it. Opened the door, turned on the ignition, then pressed the lock button on the dash (this is what you are talking about I think). No joy. Repeated the process but only turning the key to ACC, same thing.
Here is some additional information after my first post was made:
The lock/unlock sequence works if I insert the key and lock the door first. I can then stand in front of the car and use the keyfob to lock/unlock the car (whereupon the light flashes once.) After this all I can hear the soft actuation of something outside, and in the car it sounds as if it is located under the dash.
To eliminate the antenna distance issue I've also flipped the keys battery polarity, left it for 5 seconds before removing it and flipping the battery back to the positive position. I repeated this process once more. Opening the keyfob to get to the battery this time, the keyfob decided to give up the ghost on staying popped back together. Out comes a small strip of Jesus tape for a ghetto fix.
And finally I disconnected the battery for an hour before reconnecting it and then proceeded to follow all my original steps with the addition of your possible fix, and still no satisfaction.
Incidental information:
Interior door lock/unlock toggle does nothing with either the ignition on, or off. I don't even hear the soft relay like sound I hear when using the remote. I don't know if this function not working might be part of the issue. I have to look up if there is a fuse for it. For that I need to look into my directory that has all the Porsche information I've collated to find the proper fuse positions and if there is an entry for the door and remote, then test the fuse(s). If it isn't in the directory, then I need to search for the post a gentleman replied to my query on the correct fuse diagram because the small paper inserted in the manual with a fuse diagram doesn't match my fuse box. I discovered this when I blew the cigarette fuse and the location on the paper didn't even come close to the fuse location. I had to get a fuse tester to find it, that's when I asked about the correct fuse diagram and got it.
I may just end up buying a new key and having it programmed for the car. Possible problem here is I don't have the 24 character codes for the existing key to duplicate it. I expect I will follow another advice to bring some doughnuts and a coffee.
Where is this micro switch located? I don't see one on the fob unless it's under the battery. All the soldering and exposed wiring don't have any hint of visible corrosion anywhere.
When you lock/unlock through the fob, the gas cap locks are managed in concert with all other locks. If your fob is not functioning, the double tap maneuver is needed to unlock the gas cap lock. The frunk and tail lock switches on the driver's door gave me the false impression that there was no need for a double tap.
This detail caught me when the gas cap stayed locked at a time my fob wasn't working and I needed fuel. A panic reading of the owner's manual found that the gas cap pull wire would save the day. However, my gas cap emergency pull wire had departed company with the car at some point in its past. I missed the section of the manual that describes the double tap.
The book said replacing the pull wire was 1.5 hours, the dealer took 4.5 but only charged me book hours.
Not the dash button... the fob button.
This syncs the "rolling code" ... there is a rolling code program that changes every time the fob is pressed, in the fob and in the Immo, they can get out of sync and this re-syncs them...
There is also a 10A fuse on the Immo its self ( under the driver seat).... I don't think this would cause your problem but worth a check..
I'll give it another go, but I stopped by the dealer today and spoke with the service manager. I went over the steps I had performed and his conclusion was the key was synced up. The answer according to him was tracing it down from the dash receiver to the immobilizer circuit, then to the door.
I found that frightening. I just installed new LED lights to replace the halogen (just plug and play with Sylvania H7 bulbs. The high end model for the low beams and 2 models down for the high beams.
What is causing me to shake is if a wiring harness has to be replaced if it looks anything like the headlights wiring. I ended up wrapping each wire individually with electrical tape because merely looking at them made the wires shed the plastic. It hammered home how the wiring has deteriorated over time with the German government mandate that cars had to be built with biodegradable wiring.
That's another reason I would like to find a wiring diagram, not only to build a map of break points to troubleshoot the current issue, but also figure out how to make harnesses for future issues.
It'll be a nightmare, but I'm starting to be of the mind the mechanical side will turn out to be a side show when the electrical components start grounding out and blowing fuses everywhere.
Until then I'll simply drive the heck out of it until it burns down from an electrical issue like a VW did on me many, many moons ago.
I installed LED puddle lights on my 996.1 and all of a sudden my key fob stopped working for locking the car for the X number of seconds the lights stay on after shutting the door. I removed the puddle light and reinstalled the OEM and my key fob worked normally again. Just another data point during your debugging process. Now, when I install any type of replacement LED bulb, I always check to see if the key fob still functions normally.
Dummy me, I was thinking it was an IC. Duh. The micro switches I dealt with were integrated circuits. Never occurred to me it was mechanical.
When I finally crawled to the dealer (head held in shame), They verified the key worked and is recognized and synced. It didn't need to be reprogrammed.
The problem exists between the dash sensor and the power lock mechanism. If I had a wiring diagram I could likely track down the culprit instead of several hours of labor for the dealer to figure out what the issue is.
Well don't feel bad. I ended up having to go to the dealer today to have a whole new key made. My problem is that the micro switches were worn and simply did not work. The rest of the key was fine. So they got me a new board and they were able to save the rest of the key and program it to my car.
