Headlight tool does not appear to work (and general FYI for transmission oil change and coolant leak)

Grateful to have a place to ask questions. 2011 Boxster Left front indicator bulb is out. When I took the car in to replace the manual transmission fluid at 70k miles (bought car used at 42k miles), I asked if they could replace the bulb. However, the tool provided, was not able to "eject" the headlight. Buying the car used, I do not know how many times the headlight may have been removed, but any suggestions for those who experienced a similar problem? FYI - $300 to change the manual transmission oil (was quoted $600 at a different shop). I thought the small red fluid leak was transmission oil, which has similar viscosity, was my problem...triggering me getting the oil replaced and the leak looked at. I was wrong. When the car was on the rack, the leak is clearly coming from a coolant hose or fitting. Will need to take back and have this replaced. Estimate is $700-$900. Car will be in shop for two days to completely drain, replace parts, refill, and bleed the coolant system.

Sometimes releasing that headlight assembly can be persnickety. If I recall correctly, cause it’s been a while since I had one out ( all the way back to my 986 ) you can also use a standard socket and extension. It’s like a wire hoop that locks it into a plastic tray. if you don’t get any love trying that? Perhaps have a helper push gently on the headlight into the headlight mount and then try to release it again and see if that helps

Thanks for the reply. Yep, same here, did a bulb replacement on my 986 like 20 years ago. Came out easy back then. The shop did try using a socket and an extension with no luck, sigh. Thanks again!

As I recall, the headlight tool went into a socket on the rotating mechanism - so a socket won't work. Basically, you need something to go INTO the mechanism socket. Again, just going off my recollection at the moment. If needed, I can provide more detail. I believe the first time I did it, I couldn't get the official tool to work. Instead, I found that a flat-blade long screwdriver worked better than the tool. Once I understood how the mechanism worked, it made more sense and now I know how it works. It's tricky to line up on the mechanism, and that's the hardest part. I recommend taking a flashlight and looking in the hole. I did this at first, but since you're only looking with one eye, you can't visually tell if the hex is a socket or an exposed end... that was what I remember seeing, and I thought it was exposed end, but, again, as I recall it was a socket.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the shop did eventually try using a socket with a long extension, and a flashlight. They tried for about an hour, and I finally told them to call it off as I need to get the car back for them to repair the (small) coolant leak. My biggest concern is that a prior bulb replacement may have damaged something that would make the removal of the headlight impossible.

Unlikely - the bulb, itself, is within the headlight assembly, and has no bearing or interference with the headlight mechanism (unless I'm misunderstanding your concern). In addition, the lock is really just a thick rod, with bends in specific places. The bent areas pull the headlight module into place on the fixtures in the car (slides, slots, etc). The bends also have a position where they "lock" into place, so the rod can't rotate due to vibration. On my car, it takes quite a bit of force to latch/unlatch it... it makes quite a crack noise. But that's just how it works. Honestly, it's a nice design overall. I wish other manufacturers would make headlight assemblies that come in and out this easily, because having to twist and turn to get to a bulb on a car is otherwise quite annoying. Most of the time, you can't even see where the bulb is going, and you have to feel your way into it. I spend far too much time just trying to get it lined up and locked into place when I do this on our other cars! And then I usually leave with cuts and scrapes as well.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the bulb that needs to be replaced within the headlight assembly. The shop (they work on a lot of Pcars), tried for an hour to get the headlight assembly to "pop," with no luck. Was hoping someone on here had an alternative way to get the mechanism to work, lol. Thanks again!

Ahh, ok. Yeah, it can be very tight, from what I see on my car. I would go ahead and crank away as much as needed... if it breaks, so be it. I can't imagine those pieces are THAT pricey (but maybe you want to check that before breaking something). The mechanism shouldn't break the headlight assembly itself... as I mentioned, the mechanism only pulls the headlights into place... so unlatching them "shouldn't" break anything. Of course, I won't take responsibility if it does, haha! EDIT: You may consider trying to wiggle or move the headlight assembly while trying to turn the unlocker. It could be that the assembly is bound up somehow in the slides and pins therein. The wiggling and such may break it free. I wonder if an impact tool might help loosen it as well. Start low, then turn it up until it releases? That said, I don't see any other way to get it out. If that lock is on, it's not coming out without breaking something...

With the coolant leak repair I need, two days in the shop, they will have time to play with it. Agree, car is old, maybe some "shock" would unbind it. Thanks for the replies!

Pop the other one out si you can see how it works. Find a wsyvto spray some silicone or white lithium lubricant on as may friction points as possible. As you try to turn it you may need to push in, or maybe pry up or out with trim removal tools.

The tool used is a 5mm socket. On the drivers side, the tool is rotated counterclockwise to remove the headlight assembly. To remove the headlight assembly on the passenger side, the tool is rotated clockwise, from my memory. Driver side and passenger side based on LHD vehicle. If the assembly has not been removed in along while, it may be extra tough to remove. I did read of breakage occurring on stuck assemblies. Try spraying a soapy solution up under the bottom edge of the assembly between the bumper cover and the bottom of the headlight. Also, it might help, as someone suggested to use a helper to push the assembly towards the rear of the car while turning the tool. I purchased a long shafted 5mm nut driver to use instead of the tool that came with the vehicle. It can be difficult, and there is a distinct ‘snapping’ sound upon release and re-insertion.

Looks like with the fender liner out you may be able to get a hand on the back of the light and wiggle it some to loosen up whatever is holding it in. You can see where the bar goes through the plastic. That need some plastic safe penetrating lube. Maybe soapy water for a start.

Yes, I was going to mention that - 1st time I tried removing the assembly, I was worried I broke something. And good point mentioning the direction to turn the level/ratchet. There is normally considerable resistance. Over the years I've had mine in/out countless times. I had a problematic HID conversion kit that started acting-up after a few years. I had to isolate which of the components was intermittently failing (bulb, balast, or igniter). So I had to swap each from left to right side to troubleshoot. An iterative PITA process but the only way I could get warranty replacement.

I have a feeling I will have to get back in here. The standard headlights are awful in the dark, so will need to update the low beams!

Having just recently replaced all my OEM lighting with LEDs , I had the headlight assembly out numerous times so I know it can be difficult in the beginning. I finally smeared some gel lubricant on the metal bail that holds the assembly in place and placed a dab on the recesses on the bottom of the assembly where the metal bail engages. Since then it moves much easier taking it out and replacing it. I previously read where an owner broke the headlight tray because he thought the holding mechanism turned the same way on both sides and didn’t account for them being ’mirrored’ in the way it turns on each side. Just remember whichever side you are working on, to turn the tool towards the rear of the car to remove, and towards the front to install.

The repair is finally completed. To replace the $12 indicator bulb, and because the headlight could not be removed, the shop pulled the left front fender liner, removed the bulb with a long "tool" of some sort through a small opening, and replaced the bulb with the same "tool." Was an expensive day as a coolant hose had to be replaced, the system bled multiple times. Been expensive lately, drive belt, rear tires , oil change, transmission oil changed, bulb replacement, and that coolant hose. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions/replies!

I’m glad that your shop was able to replace the bulb with an alternate method, but the original problem of not being able to remove the headlight assembly remains. Were they not able to address that? They were able to replace the headlight bulb because there is a ‘port’ they were able to access from inside the wheel well, but should any other bulb need replacement that assembly will need to be removed somehow. Best case scenario is that any of the bulbs in the assembly never need replacing, but that gremlin still lurks. I’m sure your situation isn’t the first occurrence, so there must be a solution out there. I’m wondering if when your shop had the wheel well liner out, would it be possible to reach into the depths of that space with a rod of some sort, and with a second set of hands turning the removal bolt and exerting pressure on the assembly be able to dislodge the metal ‘bail’ that holds the assembly onto the headlight assembly tray. Always looking for a solution.

They tried for hours to use the tool as supplied in the toolkit. I was there with them for over an hour trying different things. They then tried to use their own tools. Because the car was bought used, I do not know the history. Did something break in the mechanism? Or is just old age, corrosion, causing "sticking?" Apparently, there is just enough room to remove the indicator bulb with a long "tool." The shop said the headlight bulb, which is larger (and dealing with the "bail" would be an issue I would think) would not fit in the small hole they found after removing the liner. As of right now, if I need to replace the headlight bulb (and I want to as the OEM is dim and not very "white"), I may have to break the headlight assembly while in the fender, and buy a used headlight assembly (have not bothered checking with dealers if they have NOS). Thanks for the reply!

More than likely it would be cheaper to get access by removing the fender. But never having the need, I'm not sure if that is feasible without first removing the headlight housing. I believe they were already halfway there when removing the liner

I feel for your frustration. I remember reading about another owner who went through a similar situation. He was attempting to remove the headlight assembly and did not realize that the bolt head on the metal bail that retains the assembly in place needed to be turned in opposite directions depending on which side of the vehicle your working and since he turned it one way on the first side, turned it the same way on the other, breaking the headlight tray. I’ll attempt to search for that post to see what he ended up doing in the end. Since you are not the original owner, possibly the previous owner did something similar. Next time I’m working on mine, I’ll attempt to find some way around this. A quick look at mine shows a possibility of reaching under the assembly from the front, between the bumper cover and the assembly with a thin gauge metal rod or something, with a hook bent into the tip and maybe grabbing the metal bail that holds it in place, after masking the bumper cover to prevent scuffs and scratches in the paint. The photo deilenberger posted shows where it would need to be grabbed, and removing your other side might assist in guiding the hook to its desired destination. When your mechanic was trying, did the bolt head turn at all? In any direction? Or did it just seem frozen with no movement? If it seemed frozen try using some spray lube with one of those long tip extensions, sliding it under the headlight and dousing the area around the tray and giving it some time to work. Might be a mess, but in the long run would be preferable to breaking the entire assembly to remove it. I wish you luck, keep us posted.

Thank you so much for your time and thoughtful replies. These boards can be a wonderful resource, and are only as good as their members. The bolt seemed stripped, hence the shop's move to their own tool. I will also say the Porsche supplied tool is not very robust, which does not allow for a lot of torque. The thought of breaking the headlight to get a headlight bulb "replaced," is not desirable! But I am good for now, and will keep my eyes out for potential solutions, which would include talking to fellow 987 owners when I see them on the road. Thanks again and have a great weekend!

@WTFChuck Just brainstorming here -how do you envision the process of removal the enclosure by dismantling-in-place? Obviously you'd need to 1st get through the lens, maybe a large hole cutting drill bit (4-6") would quickly get you inside. That would be big enough to get hands and other tools into the enclosure. There's probably some plastic shroud which can probably easily be pried or cut out. Once a clear access to the bottom is gained one could possibly use a right angle attachment and use asmaller hole cutting bit to just remove the plastic on the base near the locking tabs (for lack of a better term) and then hopefully just grab the enclosure and pull it straight out. Before doing anything it would be smart to 1st remove the other enclosure and figure where the best places are for the cutting. Regardless, care must be taken to do this surgery safely and minimize collateral damage.

This would NOT be my way in, that is what the original poster said: As of right now, if I need to replace the headlight bulb (and I want to as the OEM is dim and not very "white"), I may have to break the headlight assembly while in the fender, and buy a used headlight assembly (have not bothered checking with dealers if they have NOS). There is no non-destructible way to remove the headlight assembly if all the other methods fail, and it would of course be a matter of last resort. If all of the bulbs, Lo beam, Hi beam and signal never need replacing then I would just leave it alone and drive it. BUT, should a bulb fail and my suggested methods do not gain access then the only costly alternative would be to just cut apart the headlight lens, and assembly and take it out in little pieces, necessitating the replacement of the entire assembly, and of course the headlight assembly mounting tray, as the OP was alluding to, if I interpreted his reply correctly. I think I would have to be sitting down upon hearing the cost of these parts from the dealer, that’s why I suggested a dismantler for a used part, or eBay Motors for replacement. While my suggested methods might seem a little out of the norm, I believe if I was in the same position I could make it happen. The headlight lens on my ‘22 Land Rover Defender picked up a rock and had a hole in it. The cost for a new assembly was upwards of $4k, what with all the LED’s and halo lighting and PCB’s and microchips and self-leveling mechanisms. Ouch! I was able to find a replacement lens and after removing the assembly, and after several hours of using a heat gun, oscillating saw, Dremel tool, and scraping and gouging the nearly unrelenting adhesive used to secure the lens when it was built,(and cursing, praying and cold beers) I was able to restore it to like-new condition for under $100. Short of finding some other alternative, then the only way to remove his assembly would unfortunately be destructive, and costly. I’ve had mine out several times when I replaced all of my bulbs with LED’s and the entire assembly is not something that appears one could disassemble without destroying it.

If it was me, I'd be planning for it sooner rather than later. Murphy's Law says a bulb will go out at the worst possible time.

FWIW, I still have my old headlight assemblies from my 2010. No one seemed to be interested in buying them: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/oem-used-halogen-headlights-from-987-2.251140/?post_id=2207852#post-2207852

That new information may lead to a solution. Since the end of the bolt head is stripped, now we need to assess how to get it to turn. As I found out in my earlier search, most of the extractor sockets only go down to 6mm, you need to find something that can grip that stripped stud, and the tiny opening will limit anything getting in there to get a solid bite on it, hence enlarging the hole. I would still explore getting a tip extension on a can of PB Blaster or similar, and reaching up under the headlight assembly in the gap above the bumper cover, since you don’t know what is going on and have to assume that the mechanism may be seized, and need to coax it to loosen. Because if it is seized, then even getting a better grip may not be enough to get it to release without some lubricant. And once you get the hole enlarged and find a suitable tool to get a firm grip, it would be helpful to have a second set of hands firmly pushing the assembly towards the rear of the car, there is quite a bit of tension on the bail that holds it in place. Every time I’ve taken mine in and out I’m worried about the force needed in removing and replacing until I hear that ’snap’ or ’click’ letting me know it released or reseated, respectively. And the biggest thing to remember is the direction to turn it to release, as it differs between the drivers side and passenger side. This is what has caused other posters the biggest headache, thinking it’s righty/tighty, lefty/loosey on both sides. Thats where people have stripped the stud or broken the headlight tray holding everything together. Keep us posted, looking forward to a successful outcome.