Hi all,
987.2
base model....with 108,xxx miles.
It's due for a regular oil change service (that I'm going to attempt myself for the first time)......
The indy shop also suggested this work - I've looked it up and can't find an exact match of what they suggested.
Hoping to get some clarity from this group (AND if it's a reasonable price for the work as well)....
R&R Axle Cup/Seal: $540 labor
Bellow (x2): $125 ($62 each)
Lid (x2): $30 ($15 each)
Thanks in advance all!
It sounds like they're replacing parts on one of your driveshaft/axle CV joints. That may be excessive.. the usual cause of leaks in that area is the Oteker clamp that holds the rubber boot to the CV joint loosens up and grease starts sneaking under the sealing edge of the rubber boot. The usual fix is to remove the old clamp, peal back the boot, and replace any CV joint grease that may have splattered out, clean the sealing surfaces of the boot really well, and replace it with a new clamp. Most people go with a screw-adjustable one, some people install a new Oteker clamp.
I assume "bellow" X2 is new boots.. funny that he'd list that in the parts list but not the clamps required to replace the boots. And some people have successfully done this repair with the axle shaft on the car - takes maybe 1 hour or so.
Very cool,
@MaverickSD
-- Oil change is really straightforward and no reason to not do it yourself.
A few quick things, if you're not familiar with it all:
1) Make sure you drain the Boxster on level ground. That means, if your'e using rear ramps, remove the ramps and let it continue to fully drain out. If you don't, you'll leave old oil in the engine and it'll be a really PITA to ensure you're filling the right amount (without overfilling).
2) Yes, it's a PITA to warm the engine first for a bit to check your oil fill level -- but that's the price of an awesome 987.2. Lots of threads on here about how to DIY.
3) As you're over 100K miles, I'd strongly suggest spending $30 and do a Blackstone Oil analysis. Mine has 256K miles on it and the report was great. Yours should be as well, it but you will probably want to get a nice data point at 100K. Plus, it's inexpensive peace of mind.
Good luck with the oil change!
I am too lazy
so I have been doing all our cars on a set of Rhino ramps or just "turn" the fumoto drain valve underneath (for a SUV). For my 987 (which I just got 2 months ago and did its first oil change 2 weeks ago) I just measured what came out and refilled (slightly over-filled I am sure). Since I will be on an OCI of 1 year / 5000 miles or so, I won't be worrying about residual oil in the pan due to using the ramps.
Just "be careful" when loosening the drain plug:
When I helped my friend change oil for his
986
(right after he bought it used), we had a hard time (30+ mins) removing the drain plug (over-torqued) and almost stripped the plug (he was planning to install a new one in any case). The same friend then moved onto a 987, and he actually stripped the drain plug ....so please note that as
Porsche
drain plugs seem softer than "usual" (aluminum, I think, and
LN Engineering
now makes a stainless steel one because this?)
As for me, I just replaced the OEM plug with a stainless steel Votex plug (a "typical hex bolt", recommeded by a member here) from Amazon just to be safe (the old one I removed seemed to be in good shape so keeping it as a backup).
I am just "cautious" as I have personally experienced 4 stripped / over-torqued drain plugs (ours and friends)in my life time (all by dealers, and newbies grabbing the air gun used for wheel lug nuts then torquing the drain plug) - my friend's brand new subaru (after its "courtesy, break-in" oil change by the dealer at 1000 miles) required welding a bar to the drain plug to loosen....so.....(and we couldn't loosen it for 2+ hours using all methods available on internet / youtube).
Hello Don,
I just noticed that the passenger side inner drive shaft boot is leaking, in the past (other vehicles) I have removed the entire shaft assembly, disassemble and replaced the boots, but I don't feel doing this for the smaller leak so I will try to replace only the 'Oteker clamp' leaving the shaft in place. Do you know where can I but these clamps on line? Thanks in advance!
PS: 981CS with
PDK
and 40k
