Potential Steering rack removal - C4 : UPDATE

Hey everybody, Hope you're all well. Some background: So, my 996 C4 is succumbing to age-related issues that I'm addressing as a matter of urgency. To cut a long story short, my power-steering failed as I pulled onto my driveway (lucky) and I'm now in the process of fixing it. As per another thread, I thought I'd fixed the issue using the tried and tested jubilee-clip/s on the one union where the ferrule had failed. Not so, while my repair has held fast, it merely highlighted another issue - what looks like the power-steering metal pipes on the steering rack itself. So onto the task at hand: removing the steering rack, or getting access to it to replace the pipes...... The job itself doesn't seem too bad, but there's that time-old pain with the 996 called "access". It appears that there might be 2 options, but I don't know if they're model-dependant (C2/C4). Option 1: The one video I've seen involves "simply" sliding the rack out of the car. But that looks like it's on a C2. As I've got a C4, I'm not sure if the rack can slide past due to the diff/driveshaft being in close proximity. Thoughts? Option 2: The other method looks a little more involved: dropping the subframe to gain access to the pipes in situ (but it does mean that I don't need to disconnect tie-rods etc, unlike option 1. I'd just need more lifting gear to support the loosened-off subframe. While I've got a rough idea how to do it, are there any words of wisdom or process you can recommend for tackling this job? What is the size of the nut for the metal pipes on the rack? I think I'm covered with various tools, but you never know :mrgreen: The final caveat is that OF COURSE, this is being done by "driveway motors", so the lack of ramp is all-to-evident: something I'm discussing with the wife (and I'll lose :floor: )

Happened with my C4S - hardlines on the rack failed on the drive. My Indy had to drop the subframe to remove the rack - and the state of the rack was such that it was cheaper and simpler to get a refurbished one which wasn't too bad. But there is somewhere you can get replacement pipes for not much. Just depends whether you can get the old ones out. Be warned though, the big cost is whether you can get the two hardlines off that go back to the pump in the engine bay. If not, they are c.£300 each from the main dealer. Most appear to be welded onto the rack from my research. Dropping the subframe means you need a geo done, so I took the opportunity to replace the coffin arms at the same time. I say 'l' - I mean the garage... Well beyond my talents to do it. So hats off to you for doing it on the drive!

I've done them on my C2 and dropped the subframe. This was just on axle stands. A mechanic friend helped - it was F heavy! Got the pipes from the guy in Borsall Common. The pipe connection onto the rack wouldn't come undone on mine. The subframe on the C2 holds the fuel tank so that needed propping up with a jack. I had just 1/2 filled mine without thinking! Maybe consider changing the transverse brake pipe - on the C2 this is above the rack. I used an OEM replacement pipe so all the bends were in the right place! Just waxoil where it goes into the clips. Remove as much old fluid from the system as possible as this is an opportunity to change it in what is otherwise a sealed system.

Cheers, So I'm reading that the subframe method is the way to go. I was hoping for the easier option 1 I've bought the pipes from Design911 but they won't be here until the end of next week. I'd seen the expensive longer pipework and tbh, I've still not ruled that out, but it seems to make sense that as I'm dropping the subframe anyway to access the area and rack, I might as well get them done. I'll see what else I find when I open Pandora's box I'm hoping that I can "just" remove the metal pipework without having to disturb the bigger ones. We shall see. The irony is that I too half-filled the tank the morning the steering failed. But at least with the C4, the tank straddles the diff, but something else to consider. Dan

I have replaced mine without dropping the sub-frame, however mine is a C2. As others have mentioned getting the hardlines out of the rack may be a problem. I went a different route but did get around to adding a few pictures and some info below which be of some help - Personally I would change the whole rack. http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=134930&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20

CHeers buddy, that's epic from the little I've read. I'm going to go back to page 1 with a beer and some pizza and enjoy that Interesting to know too. Those pipes of yours look fkin dreadful. Mine don't appear as bad as those tbh. But I take your point about changing the entire rack - I'll see more when I get it out next week I suspect I've got some photos to take to put up Thanks again for your info - it'll be interesting with the hardlines too. My connections look really good tbh, so I *might* be lucky there. The bigger headache is sliding out due to potential differences between the C2 and C4. Options options. Dan

The job is done - with a (minor) twist Hi All, Resurrecting this as it's REALLY taken this long to get it done. A combination of work getting in the way, cr@ppy weather and some life issues. So the poor car has sat looking very sorry for itself for a while. But this week, the planets lined up and I could get the issue fixed. As it turns out, it's actually not a super-unpleasant job to tackle - with the right kit. And I didn't have to take out the steering rack as on closer inspection, the supply/return pipes on the rack were perfectly fine and it looks like at some stage, they've been replaced. A bonus. So it did raise the issue of where the foof the leak was, as while I was bleeding the original repair, I heard a "FTTT!" and the underside of the car was redecorated in brand new CHF11s. As it turns out, another ferrule had split in half spectacularly, and forced the rubber pipe out of the metal adjoining one. Simply put: age-related. I could SEE it but couldn't get to it. It was above the AntiRollBar (ARB), in front of the rack. The hardest part was access and the process of getting access. But my plan was "simply" to remove the ARB and I could gain access Prior to this point I would just like to mention the undertray clips though...... there's a special place in hell for the individual who designed those. May they have itchy genital warts and arms too short to reach. Yes. They clip on easily, but on an older car, removal is a pain. The other minor stuff was the ARB bolts - why Porsche decided that the 3 (or 4?) bolts per side ALL have to be different..... cue lots of changes of socket. And some gentle persuasion with the assistance of WD40. No problems though. Once the ARB was out, it was easy to see and access the problem, cured in a similar manner to the other failed ferrule - courtesy of a couple of jubilee clips. Some may frown on this, but it's a recognised repair method and if checked regularly, it just as effective. Then just a case of re-fitted ARB and putting it all back together - I also checked all the rubbers/bushes etc for wear (prior to the initial failure, it was going for an MOT) - all seemed fine. Final clean off of undertray prior to fitting - I've not put all the clips back on as (a) some were broken - to be replaced and (b) I want to flush and refill my front diff (C4) oil in the near future. The only screwup was that I inadvertently fitted the ARB bush housing upside down, so the bar sat proud and didn't line up with the droplinks OOPS. Cleaned it all off with brake-cleaner and bled the system again. No leaks or signs of weeping :thumbs: Dropped in for an MOT yesterday, and it flew through with no advisories or anything. The tester noted that I'd done a SHAMEFUL 2000 miles in the last year!!! :nooo: :floor: That'll change 8) So to recap, no pipes needed, but I now can't send rack pipes back as it's too late. But I think I'll keep them just in case. The ferrule pic is attached for anybody's reference. I *think* (after looking on Katalog 996) it might have been on one of the longer £500 pipes, so I'm considering the job a win on several counts: No new fitting of pipe No dropping of subframe No removal of steering rack And it IS doable on the driveway with axle stands and jack. Some may argue that "fit and forget" would have been a better option, but tbh, it's cost me time, and £3.98 in jubilee clips. And I've always gone for cheaper option first, being fully prepared to pay for expensive option if needed. I hope this helps someone :mrgreen: Dan :thumbs: