Interior Fab Project - V1 Housing

Any of you familiar with Valentine 1 know it is arguably the best radar/laser detector (RD)out there. The problem is, I hate it when RDs are mounted to the windsheild. Not only is it a give away for a cop who wants to single you out as combatant, I don't like to make stuff like that look OEM. So... the weekend project will entail a little cloth, resin/hardener, fiberglass, hot glue and wood dowels (to frame it during glassing). I've got a nice spot picked out on the headliner where has a nice line of sight (for laser, radar it doesn't matter). I'm going to make a slick housing for it, and make little snap covers over both ends so only the sensors are exposed (which are black, so it blends with the covers). I have the remote (concealed display) which i am still thinking of where to put it. Probably in the cubby hole below the A/C controls. If Stephan gets a module for on screen display, then that will be a bonus. I'll post pics when it's done. My only question would be, anyone know how to procure the headliner used on CS? Anyone seen anything remotely similar around? I doubt you guys spend much time at the fabric store, but couldn't hurt to ask! /fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/MWPX/wink_smile.gif I'm also thinking about mounting. I don't want make it permanent, where it would show flaws in the headliner if removed, so I gotta think that one through to. I'm thinking a clip (think garage door opener clip) that clips under the edge of the headliner, but I think there will be too much play to make it look prettyflush. hrrrmmm...

You do know you can take power from the two metal leads that are exposed where the sun visors clip in right? Stefan showed me that the other day on our drive. Keeps from having to run a cord all the way down to the fuse box.

If you are looking for some hard mounting points that won't do any permanent damage, you might want to consider the screw that holds the visor clip. Some sort of bracket would be needed to clear the headliner. There also might be something behind the map light assembly. I haven't figured out how to remove that yet... Good luck with the project. Please let us know how it goes. Dave

Are those leads from near the sunvisor powered off with the ignition? If not be careful to not run you battery down if you use them.

I just checked mine - unfortunately it's hot all the time.

Those are good ideas for the mounting and power. Mounting it off the visor mounts could give me the rigidity I am looking for. I think I threw you guys off though by saying 'garage door clip'. I was describing the idea of using spring steel to keep it secured to the headliner. The position I intially scoped was where the headliner meets the top of the rear hatch, between the top seats. I'm going to rethink with the available mount points from the visors though. I should have some pics by Sunday night of raw shell. I still need to think about where to get matching (or close to) fabric. Some thing tells me craftsmart isn't selling it, heh.

I had been thinking something similar only in the front. The visor mountthat comes with the v1 will fit between the headliner and the roof (inserted in the gap at the windshield) andseems strong enough to support it, but it is not stable. That's why I was thinking of a strap that would run from the visor clip mounting screw to (maybe) the map light to stabilize the back of the mount. In other cars, I've been able to use a piece of sheet metal between the 2 visor clipscrewswith av1 visor mount bolted to it (clip removed). That works out nice and leaves noscars. Unfortunately the map light bump is in the way on this car. Also, I've fount that laser and radar will pass through thincloth well. I think you could cover the front and back of your enclosure full time with an open weave materiallike speaker cloth with little or no degradation. Dave

By doing this, wont you loose some reception to the rear and the sides?

azcay, you certainly need a radar detector in Arizona, boy-howdy. I grew up there and fly there often on the corporate jet to work in Phoenix and visit family in Tucson. The place absolutely crawls with cops. Like Nazi Germany 1930's style. /fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/MWPX/thumbs_down.gif No thanks.-Steve

Jason- If you are referring to azcay's concept, I think the enclosure azcay is planning will be open at the front and back to allow the detector to 'see' the radar and laser signals. Thereceiving antennas and laser sensors are only mountedon the front and rear surfaces of the detector, so it's okto cover up the sides/top/bottom. - Dave

Exactly... the front and rear will be totally unobstructed. The only worry would be possibly a loss of laser detection, as for laser detection favors a lower mount point. However, if you get a laser alert speeding, you've got a ticket, except in the lucky occassion you picked up scatter. This is where the laser jammers come in play, which is in the works. And yes, there is a rediculous amount of police. I can understand the presence in high crime areas. In Gilbert, for a traffic stop, it is not uncommon for 2 or 3 more cruisers to arrive on the scene as if a crime was committed. The problem, like many of the suburban cities of Phoenix, is they have way more beat cops than the crime level warrants, so they end up doing traffic enforcement and have DUI checkpoints everywhere. For the DUI thing, we have .08 here. I bought a breathalyzer so when I am out I know if I am OK to drive without getting arrested, not because I am not capable of driving any less than normal (I don't drive when i'm impaired, period. but .08 is not my impairment level based on testing myself every time i drink).

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr id="quote" noshade="noshade" height="1" /> The position I intially scoped was where the headliner meets the top of the rear hatch, between the top seats. <hr id="quote" noshade="noshade" height="1" /> Funny. I had posted in an earlier thread about a similar concept. I wasn't crazy about the rear hatch location as I would see the unit in my rear view mirror. My project was going to begin once Staphan figured out the screen module.This housing will most likely be a free standing unit that will have a shelf in it for the V1. Overall height will position the V1 at 5.5'' off of the reardeck just behind grab rail. The sensors will have aclear view of the front and rear glass PLUS itwill bebelow my view point throughthe rear view mirror. I plan for this housing to be a little on the heavy side with velcro on the bottom so it will not slide on the carpet. The design will also be in keeping with the beauty of our cars and possibly include a Porsche logo. Here's a quick visual. </blockquote> Edited by - Artman on 08/13/2006 04:51:42 AM

I like my V1 mount very much. I used the V1 suction cups to secure the front and made a small part to bridge the gap between the front of the V1 and the mirror mount. I used velcro between the mirror mount and the V1, which is just below the mirror (low eoungh that the laser sensor can see through rear window (the bottom ov the V1 is about 1/2 inch below the mirror). V1is nice and solidly mounted, and can be easily removed if I want to for security and/or another car. The power lead is easily and invisibly routed around the windshield to a switched position in the fuse panel. So far no tickets, thanks to the V1! Charles

I've got a solution now. I think you guys will like it as it makes no permanent changes and it is swappable faster than suction cups. The applications will work for anything you want to mount. Ok... after further examination, pondering, etc... I decided not to glass an enclosure, at least until I can locate matching fabric. Also, I thought about the times I would want the V1 in the other car. I thought about your idea of going off the rear deck. I decided against it as to get adequate elevation for line of sight it would be pretty high. My thought tho, was to use one of those flexi snake cell phone mounts off the bar on the rear deck. I've decided to go with the headliner mount. It is the most discrete IMHO and unobtrusive. The question remained how to mount it without causing permanent scars. I went to the hardware store to get a thin metal strap to bend to the contour of the headliner curve at the edge. That would slide between the headliner and roof, much like a visor clip. Then a stumbled on across something better while there.. High power magnets. Slide two in between the roof and headliner, and put two on the detector, secured by some tape mastic. I've looked into it and magnets will have no affect on detectors (or at least the v1). Run the cord through the headliner to the fuse box (probably will tuck in door molding). Plug into hardwire adapter. I'm not sure where I want the remote display at yet. I was using in the ash tray, but I'm leaning towards dash or cubby hole below AC buttons. I will still be making a snap on plate for the arrow/button side of the v1 so controls are not seen. I think it will be rather slick once I get the wiring done. /fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/MWPX/dance.gif

Azcay, The magnets sound like a great idea.In the past, I have encountered a problem with strong magnets around radio related stuff because the tuning coil slugsinside the radio sometimes are magnetic. The magnet can cause them to move, throwing off the tuning. Are you sure there is no problem? As for the remote display, I am working on mounting minejust in front ofthe instrument cluster. If you look between the center (tach) ring and right side ring, there is a horizontal crack where the gauge cluster meets the dash, inthe vicinity of the seat belt light. I took a thin piece of sheet metal, covered it with stick on felt, and forced it into the crack. It holds nicely. The sheet metal is an L shape and the vertical part of the L will support the back of the remote display. It is located between the info display at the bottom of the center gauge circle and the clock display at the bottom of the right gauge circle. It doesn't block anything but the seatbelt light. I have a pic of the bracket at home I can post tonight. I'm in the process of modifying my remote display to make it smaller, butI think the bracket would work ok even with a full size one. The low tech approach would be to velcro it on top of the steering column, but I think it blocks part of the info display there. Dave

I field tested the setup. I think, to my surprise, it is an excellent setup. It is nice to not have it on the dash or sitting next to a cop in a Pcar with a V1 sticking out, wondering if he wants to put you in your place. I was skeptical of laser (even though I am getting blinders soon), and indeed concerned about the magnets. However, motorcycle users of the V1 use magnet mounts that are sold retail and Mike Valentine himself confirmed no issue on another forum. I have confirmed this with my speed gun (k band), the local speed signs (k band), the random x band everywhere fromin thecity, and some Ka hits on the freeway. I have never had a laser alert until today, even though I know it is in use in my region. I had two on surface streets today ,so that was exciting. I drove over bumps, hard turns, acceleration, braking, trying to see if it would dislodge or reposition. It held perfectly. My suggestion to anyone wanting to do this is, ordera rare earth magnet on ebay. Try to get less than 1/4' thick, maybe closer to 1/8'. This will be about 10x stronger than the two ceramics I used on the in between the headliner and roof and will enable you to keep your headliner from showing any push down. Then use the ceramic on the outside, mastic'd to the detector. The ceramic are thicker and give it a lil space between the roof and detector to give a better line of sight for laser. I have mine positioned slightly right of center, to look past the rear view mirror. I haven't hard wired, and I may not since it was too easy to make it very clean as is. The cord runs right down the back of passenger side seat (i got black interior so you dont even notice the foot and half or so). I use the power outlet inside the console (not lighter). The cords come in from the back. The remote is in the cubby hole, and that wire in concealed the whole way. Basically the only exposed wire is coming off the detector. I may reroute it, but plenty fine for now.

/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/MWPX/pics.gifPictures would be good. Sounds like aneat solution. I mentioned earlier today that I'd seen an Audi using rare earth magnets to hold a front L. Plate on to avoid drilling holes. Maybe there are other uses as well.

Pics coming tonight... /fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/MWPX/thumbsup.gif

Here's a pic of the remote display bracket I was talking about.

DaveD, pretty slick. Almost makes me wish I had not sold my V1.

Thanks. I'll get a drivers view of the display posted once I get it finished up. Why did you sell the v1? Have you decided to always go the speed limit from now on? /fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/MWPX/regular_smile.gif Dave

I took the lazy approach and velcroed it to my steering column. It doesn't obscure anything and only took a minute to mount. I think it looks pretty clean.

Looks good, and there's nothing wrong with keeping it simple. That is how I have it mounted in my other car. Just thought I'd try and make it more complicated this time. I'll probably end up with it that way after I give up on the new approach! Dave

Where are they? I'm looking forward to seeing those.

I tried a side mount, but ended up in the center like you did. It fits just under the rubber of the dials and I made it about a half inch or so thinner using a belt sander. I like the remote centered and the way it is installed it looks balanced.

While we are waiting to see what azcay came up with,I'll pass along a couple pics of how my remote install turned out. My goal was to make no permanent scars, not block any gauges, and have the display easily camoflaged when not in use. I used the mounting bracket I posted earlier with the L shape removed to make itflat. I used a small hinge to mount the modified display, so that it can be swiveled down when I want to hide it. The display was made thinner by removing the RJ45 connector, and narrower by removing the mute button. A mute button is mounted on the back (towards dash) side of the turn signal stalk. Not a DIY project for everyone, but it might provide some ideas. Here's a shot of it folded down. Not hidden entirely, but most people wouldn't know what it was (except for CC members).