On and Off switch, need help

Hello, I need help to figure out what switch I can use in the oval shaped space for switches if I need just a simple �on and off� switch that I am using for an accessory in my 996. Really want to look as if the switch belong to the space Thanks

Try Autoatlanta, Pelican Parts, or FCP Euro - I�m pretty sure they�ll all have the stock switches - perhaps without symbols/writing

You can re-purpose any switch. When I bought my car the previous owner had an extra rear window defroster switch as a garage opener switch. I ended up buying the Targa switch since it resembles a garage more. But any window or horse shoe switch will fit, it just depends if you care about what it depicts or not. They have 4 prongs on the back, one for each toggle and then power and ground for the button to light up when the lights are on. Ebay has a bunch of options, I have some spares also.

I do not think any of the OEM switches are latching, though, so the on/off would be momentary. You'd need to couple the switch with a latching relay to keep power running to your accessory.

@binaryaudax is correct, my problem is that the switch that I tried (the door lock switch) doesn’t stay “on” once I stop pushing. The question is how do I keep the switch on the “on” position once I let my finger off the button.

What about the seat heater switch, it technically stays on. The light remains on and the seats keep heating until you turn it off. Maybe the wiring is different?

Since I don't have seat heater, I don't know, maybe worth exploring. Thanks

I believe all the buttons exhibit the same behavior—the LED is a separate circuit controlled by a module external to the switch. I doubt the seat heater buttons themselves are latching unless they physically stay in the pressed position. (I don't have seat heaters, so I cannot confirm.) You could use a control module with a latching relay that accepts a momentary input as the trigger -- something like this: Amazon Amazon I used something similar in my coupe to trigger an aftermarket PSE-style valved exhaust using the OEM button.

I am sending an inquiry to Gaudin Porsche, usually they are quite helpful. However, if they can't help, I certainly can try that item from Amazon. Again, thanks for all the responses

I looked into this for making my rear wiper stay on constantly rather than the double wipe. The switches are not latching, so their actions depends on what relay they are turning on. I had rigged up a spare e30 wiper relay to a heated seat switch as I also wanted the option to constantly wipe the rear glass�.but ultimately decided it wasn�t worth it and scrapped the idea.

This would work. You Tube

Quotes source post: 20495288

The heat switch light remains because there is a latching relay under the seat that keeps it on as long as the seat heating elements aren't burned out.

Just a quick update. Gaudin Porsche basically confirmed that all the oval buttons for 996 are all non latching switches . The only switch that is latching apparently is the hazard button which I don’t want to use. A while ago I got myself the door lock switch which as I found out to be non latching. With the help of @binaryaudax link to the correct relay in Amazon, I now am able to have a latching door lock switch that I can use to turn on and off the Bluetooth unit as I would like. The only thing that I still have not been able to figure out is to have the light on the button to come on in the “on” position. It is not a big deal for now.

Most of the LEDs in the buttons receive 12V and just need a ground to illuminate. For the central locking button, pin 4 is +12V, and pin 5 should go to ground to light the LED. Then you'd use your relay to provide ground to your Bluetooth module, and the LED... so when the LED is on, you know the Bluetooth module is powered on also.

My door lock button does not have pin 4. It has pin 1, pin 2, pin 3, pin C and pin 5. - The light on the button will light up if I give pin C(+) and pin 5(-) without pushing any button. The light will not come on if I reverse the polarity between pin C and pin 5 - If I push the button to lock position, pin 1 and pin C are connected (as long as I press the button). - If I push button to unlock position , pin 2 and pin C are connected (as long as I press the button). - Due to non latching button situation, I use the suggested relay to latch between pin 1 and pin C to turn the Bluetooth unit “on” and pin 2 and pin C to turn it “off”. - However, if I connect (+) current to pin C, in an effort to have the light to come on, the relay is not working. Electricity is always a mystery to me. I can understand the basic DC electricity, but when it involves integrated circuit, I am lost.

Pin 4 is C on your button... the "C" probably stands for "common" since it's the +12v source for the button. On the relay side, I'm assuming you are currently using it to switch the +12V supply to the Bluetooth module. What I'm suggesting instead is that you wire the +12v to the Bluetooth module directly, and then use the relay to control the ground side to close the loop. This would also allow you to connect pin 5 on the button to the relay. In that configuration, activating the relay will close the circuit for both the LED and the Bluetooth module. But... this complicates your button-press signals to the Set/Rst terminals. I had the exact same issue with my PSE controller, and I had to use a transistor to drive those signals triggered by button presses. (Based on your post history, it looks like you're in Orange County. I'm also in Orange County, so if you want to meet up and figure it out, PM me.)

Thank you for the offer, I am in LA close to LAX, I’ll keep your offer in mind, however, for now, I am okay with the light not coming on (it would be nice, but I can live without it) I have thought similarly like you by changing the switch current on the relay from switching the (+) to switching the (-) current, however, I am not clear how changing the switch current from (+) to (-) will change anything on the close and open temporary signal since pushing the close and open button doesn’t seem to involve any current, just open or close contact and that this temporary contact input is translated by the relay to be a permanent contact output. Even the positive and negative current to the relay, I thought is just to create the permanent contact output from the temporary contact input. But again, this integrated circuit is always a mystery to me.

Quotes source post: 20499998

There is still current involved. The Set/Rst pins on the relay board are outputting ~2.8V. Pulling them to ground is the signal to the microcontroller to activate/deactivate the relay.